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Post by rowdy235 on Sept 28, 2018 23:54:57 GMT -5
Homelite no longer builds their kit but they can be found. I'm thinking your blower has a walbro WT carburetor. If that is the case, you will need the K20-WAT kit. It's readily available online, here's one I found. Maybe post a couple pictures of the carb if possible to make sure right. www.amazon.com/Walbro-K20-WAT-Carburetor-Repair-Kit/dp/B06XX57GXP
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Post by vankjeff on Sept 29, 2018 1:31:22 GMT -5
Thanks Rowdy. I'll post a few photos of the carb tomorrow. Does it matter what views I give you or should I maybe even pull off the base of the air filter if that can be done?
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Post by vankjeff on Sept 29, 2018 11:27:14 GMT -5
I went to loosen the filter's base and what do you know, it also loosened the carb from the engine. Cool. That's easy. So here's a combo of 2 PICs of the carb so that you can see what brand it is. I noticed a bunch of slimy oil & dirt on the inside of the filter cover right where it sucks in outside air. That would seem to mean to me that fuel with oil IS being expelled there somehow, at least a little, and that oil is what is making the dirt stick to the cap there. I'm embarrassed at how dirty everything is but trust me, I'll clean it up before I put it back together and especially along with any future carb rebuild. ;-)
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Post by 1975 Super XL on Sept 29, 2018 11:50:15 GMT -5
That looks like a Walbro WT series carburetor, possibly a WT-80, which would use the K20-WAT kit as Rowdy235 said above. The exact model of the carburetor is stamped on the side, I think on the side opposite the mixture screws below the white plastic cover on this model.
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on Sept 29, 2018 11:55:20 GMT -5
The UT number for this hand held blower is ; UT:08035-R ...which is a model HB25150V The carburetor on this unit is a Walbro-WT series...Repair kit: Walbro K20-WAT
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Post by vankjeff on Sept 29, 2018 12:50:43 GMT -5
Thanks you guys. It looks like I'll be tearing into my carb to replace some gaskets pretty soon. I can hardly lose for only $5-7 and I can even slide it in on my next Amazon order for some cans of Mixed Nuts and some Atkin's shakes. ;-)
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Post by vankjeff on Oct 1, 2018 14:16:11 GMT -5
The UT number for this hand held blower is ; UT:08035-R ...which is a model HB25150V The carburetor on this unit is a Walbro-WT series...Repair kit: Walbro K20-WAT I took off the carb to find the model # and I see a stamped T and F sitting by themselves and then 212A (see photo). So, is the Repair Kit that I need still what you'd thought? I'm hoping to order one ASAP to hopefully get this blower to run like it should. I wanted to ask, is it normal for the 2 studs that hold the carb on to seem loose when the carb is off? I can wiggle them up and down quite a bit even though I can’t turn them IN or OUT by hand to tighten them or to remove them. I realize that when the carb is tightened on, it would hold those 2 studs tight. But their looseness seemed weird to me. Maybe the nut piece that the stud is threaded into is a moveable, separate unit for some reason? Also, look at all that ugly oil & grime all over the engine near where the carb mounts on. That’s proof to me that the air filter’s intake almost has to be blowing pre-mix out. There has even been oily stuff running down the front of the fuel tank under the carb every time I use the blower.
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Post by rowdy235 on Oct 1, 2018 14:38:27 GMT -5
Yes, that still looks like a WT carburetor, a WT-212. The K20-WAT kit will work fine for that application.
I believe the studs are actually bolts which run through the spacer (believe homelite refers to it as a "heat dam") piece backwards, if that makes sense. I do remember them being a little loose when everything is removed. One thing you may consider would be removing the spacer and replacing the gasket behind it, just to eliminate any possibility of a leak there. However, I would suspect the gasket is NLA and your best option would be to cut a new one out of some gasket material.
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on Oct 1, 2018 14:51:02 GMT -5
Yes,the K20-WAT is the correct kit for the Walbro WT-212A carburetor.
The stud looseness is normal.
The oily grime could be from a leak at the carburetor ...(loose bolts,bad diaphrams/gaskets etc.)
Good time to check the fuel filter,remove hose at carb. and blow back through filter,should be little restriction.
Also check spark arrestor screen in muffler for clogging.
Is the serial number HZ2270771 of the blower ? 2004-2005 purchase date ?
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Post by vankjeff on Oct 2, 2018 15:39:33 GMT -5
Yes,the K20-WAT is the correct kit for the Walbro WT-212A carburetor. The stud looseness is normal. The oily grime could be from a leak at the carburetor ...(loose bolts,bad diaphrams/gaskets etc.) Good time to check the fuel filter,remove hose at carb. and blow back through filter,should be little restriction. Also check spark arrestor screen in muffler for clogging. Is the serial number HZ2270771 of the blower ? 2004-2005 purchase date ? Thanks. I'll order a carb rebuild kit after I try the easy fix you had said I should do now, which is "check the fuel filter by removing the hose at the carb and blowing back through the filter to see if it has any restriction". I'm replying to him separately to ask more about doing that. Also, how do I check the spark arrestor screen in muffler for clogging? I feel silly asking this but I really don't know what I should be looking for. And also, I've been wondering if all of that grime is being blown out due to my repeatedly Choking it as it is about to die in order to keep it running. Maybe so? As far as cleaning up all of that grime that's all over everything, how can I do that easily without taking it apart or chancing hurting anything? Can I spray some Gunk or Gas and then just lightly hose it to wash it off? Would that hurt any electronics? I can't really read the tag to see the Serial # but it looks like it is MP12RAPA5 in this photo. I probably did buy this blower in '04 or '05.
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Post by vankjeff on Oct 2, 2018 16:00:11 GMT -5
Good time to check the fuel filter,remove hose at carb. and blow back through filter,should be little restriction. Which of these fuel lines is the filter at the end of, 1 or 2? Is the filter in the weight that's at the end of the line that always keeps it down near the bottom of the tank? Also, can I just disconnect the line up at the carb and blow into it with this can of DUST REMOVER keyboard cleanup compressed air? I don't have an air compressor anymore. Those went with everything when I sold my business and my NASCAR racing team. I just want to make sure that wouldn’t hurt the filter by blowing it apart if it is partially blocked. I'm sure it's nowhere near as strong and potentially damaging as air compressor air at 100 psi but I just want to make sure this would be OK and is close to what you were suggesting that I do.
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Post by rowdy235 on Oct 2, 2018 18:47:20 GMT -5
I don't see why that wouldn't work, same concept as an air compressor just on a smaller scale. You could probably also blow through the hose as well, this may allow you to "feel" if there was any obstructions.
Can you look inside the tank and see which one of the hoses goes to the filter?
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Post by rowdy235 on Oct 2, 2018 18:53:38 GMT -5
On these models, the spark arrestor screen is inside the muffler.You can see the screen, part 8 in the following diagram: You should be able to relatively easily dismantle the muffler and see the screen. If its got buildup on it, the best way to clean it is with a propane torch, you can just burn the stuff off usually. I used to work at a tree farm that ran Stihl MS192 limbing saws, had to clean the screens on those at least a few times a year.
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Post by vankjeff on Oct 4, 2018 12:44:04 GMT -5
I’ve got to take a break on this. I fell yesterday as I lifted the blower onto my workbench to blow out the fuel line's filter to see if that might keep it from repeatedly dying. I hurt my lower back. Luckily nothing is broken and it just hurts really bad. I’ll be pretty sore for a week or 2. Meanwhile, I really want to clean the junk off of the engine & the carb soon with some Gunk, gas or carb cleaner or whatever you say I should use. I guess that I could even rinse it off my spraying or pouring some very hot or even some boiling water on it. Does that sound OK or does anyone have any better ideas?
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Post by vankjeff on Oct 4, 2018 12:45:15 GMT -5
I’ve got to take a break on this. I fell yesterday as I lifted the blower onto my workbench to blow out the fueli filter. Hurt my lower back bad. I’ll be pretty spur for a week or 2. IMeanwhile, I really want to clean the junk off the engine & the carb soon with Gunk or carb cleaner. I guess that I could even rinse it off my spraying or pouring some very hot or even some boiling water on it from a tea pot. Does that sound ok or does anyone have any better ideas?
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Post by vankjeff on Oct 4, 2018 12:46:00 GMT -5
I’ve got to take a break on this. I fell yesterday as I lifted the blower onto my workbench to blow out the fuel filter. Hurt my lower back bad. I’ll be pretty spur for a week or 2. IMeanwhile, I really want to clean the junk off the engine & the carb soon with Gunk or carb cleaner. I guess that I could even rinse it off my spraying or pouring some very hot or even some boiling water on it from a tea pot. Does that sound ok or does anyone have any better ideas?
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Post by rowdy235 on Oct 4, 2018 18:27:12 GMT -5
Ouch, Jeff. Hope you heal quickly!
I don't much like to use water to clean equipment if I can help it, just causes too many problems if it gets in the wrong area. One exception is if you have access to a steam cleaner (neither do I, but its on my wish list).
I like brake cleaner aka brakleen for jobs like this. It cuts almost any grease/grime, has a really powerful spray, evaporates quickly and doesn't seem to damage sensitive pieces. That said, it is pretty volatile stuff, so be careful when using it. I am sure carb cleaner would pry have a similar effect.
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Post by vankjeff on Oct 5, 2018 0:19:40 GMT -5
Ouch, Jeff. Hope you heal quickly! I don't much like to use water to clean equipment if I can help it, just causes too many problems if it gets in the wrong area. One exception is if you have access to a steam cleaner (neither do I, but its on my wish list). I like brake cleaner aka brakleen for jobs like this. It cuts almost any grease/grime, has a really powerful spray, evaporates quickly and doesn't seem to damage sensitive pieces. That said, it is pretty volatile stuff, so be careful when using it. I am sure carb cleaner would pry have a similar effect. I guess since I've got a full can of carb cleaner already, I'll just use that. I'm sure it's formulated to not hurt gaskets and other parts that it might end up on. Thanks for hoping that my back gets back to normal soon. It's a bitch getting old. I shouldn't have fallen. I can't even say that I tripped or slipped on anything. I just lost my balance as I was taking a step backwards. I don't suggest that anyone get old if they can somehow work that out. ;-)
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Post by 1975 Super XL on Oct 5, 2018 11:28:32 GMT -5
I’ve got to take a break on this. I fell yesterday as I lifted the blower onto my workbench to blow out the fuel line's filter to see if that might keep it from repeatedly dying. I hurt my lower back. Luckily nothing is broken and it just hurts really bad. I’ll be pretty sore for a week or 2. Meanwhile, I really want to clean the junk off of the engine & the carb soon with some Gunk, gas or carb cleaner or whatever you say I should use. I guess that I could even rinse it off my spraying or pouring some very hot or even some boiling water on it. Does that sound OK or does anyone have any better ideas?
I hope your back gets well soon. Carburetor or brake cleaner works well for cleaning things off, but be careful where you spray it because it can also remove paint and sometimes discolor plastic parts. Hot soapy water also cleans good, but you would have to be very careful to keep it out of the engine and fuel system.
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Post by vankjeff on Oct 12, 2018 1:29:10 GMT -5
On these models, the spark arrestor screen is inside the muffler.You can see the screen, part 8 in the following diagram: You should be able to relatively easily dismantle the muffler and see the screen. If its got buildup on it, the best way to clean it is with a propane torch, you can just burn the stuff off usually. I used to work at a tree farm that ran Stihl MS192 limbing saws, had to clean the screens on those at least a few times a year. I've just gotten back to reading this and looking at the images. Thanks for giving me those and telling me what to look for & how to fix it if it needs fixing. I wanted to mention that because this blower was used mostly indoors its whole life to clean the floor under machines, tables & shelving, it was usually run at pretty low throttle and might have only been revved up when we got to the overhead and wanted to blow stuff away to keep it from blowing into the shop. So, would you think that low RPM usage might have in some way helped to clog the muffler's spark arrestor screen? I haven't looked in there yet but I can imagine it getting build-up if the exhaust wasn't blasting out hot enough to keep it burned off.
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