|
Post by sweepleader on Sept 14, 2018 8:01:23 GMT -5
I would consider the failure to return to idle a linkage problem. I would look for something bent the wrong way or too dry to move freely. I have never had one apart so I cannot help there.
|
|
|
Post by 1975 Super XL on Sept 14, 2018 8:27:43 GMT -5
The throttle trigger operates a long L-shaped rod that goes to the carburetor. The linkage can be seen here: Throttle parts
There is a slot in the blower housing that the rod moves in, if there is a buildup of dirt or debris, it may cause the rod to get stuck and not return to idle. The slot is circled in red in the picture below: HB180V housing by Elijah J, on Flickr The above picture is not mine, I found it on eBay.
|
|
|
Post by sweepleader on Sept 14, 2018 9:58:41 GMT -5
Wow, that long throttle lever looks like it was made to be a problem area with dirt and distortion.
|
|
|
Post by vankjeff on Sept 14, 2018 13:18:04 GMT -5
I got a 2-gallon gas “can” at Walmart last night for $12.95. I do like the price even though I hate the new safety "no spillage" features on all gas cans. I also bought some STA-BIL. It as some weird filler neck that helps you only pour in the # of ounces you want to. I've never seen one of those before.
|
|
|
Post by vankjeff on Sept 14, 2018 13:21:25 GMT -5
Look at the Walmart receipt. For some odd reason, when I was doing SELF CHECKOUT, it suddenly wouldn't let me finish since it found that I was buying that STA-BIL until an employee came over to check my ID. WTH? But I wanted to ask someone here, should I be concerned that it says on the label “EFFECTIVE ON ALL ETHANOL BLENDED FUELS” if I'm going to use it in ethanol-free gas?
|
|
|
Post by undee70ss on Sept 14, 2018 14:06:42 GMT -5
Stabile is a ingredient in making meth I believe, they check id’s to see how much and how often you buy it. It is fine to use in non ethanol gas.
|
|
|
Post by vankjeff on Sept 14, 2018 15:29:41 GMT -5
Stabile is a ingredient in making meth I believe, they check id’s to see how much and how often you buy it. It is fine to use in non ethanol gas. So maybe that's why the were so concerned when I tried to sneak a whole case full of bottles of STA-BIL thru the Self Checkout lane? 😉
|
|
|
Post by vankjeff on Sept 14, 2018 15:58:47 GMT -5
Guys, I'm ready to find some ethanol-free gas. Should I just drive around & look at local stations since I think someone here had said that the Premium is of ethanol-free? Would it say on the pump if it was ethanol-free? Or I did find 2 stations listed near me out of the 24 the site lists in California. www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=CA But they have either 100 or 116 octane. One is a Gulf Station and the other is Pit racing fuel. Is it OK to run that 100 octane in my blower? I wouldn't want to pay for 116 octane race gas.
|
|
|
Post by sweepleader on Sept 14, 2018 16:06:45 GMT -5
Octane really only matters to the engine if it is too low. Some additives to increase octane will foul the spark plug faster and they are often used in racing fuel. If Pure-gas does not get you there, you will have to search for yourself. It might be that a state petroleum agency might know who sells what, never tried that, I have a couple not far away and an entire chain in my area that handles it. I did call one of them before I knew and asked them, the clerks did not know, not even the manager.
|
|
|
Post by P.E.B.K.A.C. on Sept 14, 2018 16:48:24 GMT -5
Curious if the 'Marine Oil' you purchased will be what you'll be using in this air cooled blower ?
|
|
|
Post by vankjeff on Sept 14, 2018 23:54:22 GMT -5
Curious if the 'Marine Oil' you purchased will be what you'll be using in this air cooled blower ? Don't worry about that MARINE on the receipt and Outboard on the bottle. That's probably because this is the bigger 16 oz bottle that creates 6 gallons of 50:1 pre-mix instead of those little 2.8 oz bottles that can only make up a gallon of pre-mix. I think most boats use more fuel than weedeaters, lawnmowers and handheld or backpack blowers do and most of those aren't water cooled. ;-) It says on the back of the bottle: May also be used in a variety of other 2-cycle engines such as lawnmowers, motorcycles, chainsaws and snowmobiles.
|
|
|
Post by rowdy235 on Sept 15, 2018 0:43:16 GMT -5
Interesting. I've never seen any tc-w3 oil advertised as also for use in air cooled equipment. I'd be worried if the oil could handle the higher temperatures, but I am little overly cautious.
It looks to me like the next line says "where nmma tc-w3 oils are specified", which would indicate to me the equipment calling for the oil was water cooled, I've never seen an air cooled two stroke specify tc-w3.
I wouldn't run the oil personally but that's just my opinion.
|
|
|
Post by vankjeff on Sept 15, 2018 1:08:01 GMT -5
Interesting. I've never seen any tc-w3 oil advertised as also for use in air cooled equipment. I'd be worried if the oil could handle the higher temperatures, but I am little overly cautious. It looks to me like the next line says "where nmma tc-w3 oils are specified", which would indicate to me the equipment calling for the oil was water cooled, I've never seen an air cooled two stroke specify tc-w3. I wouldn't run the oil personally but that's just my opinion. Thanks. I'll take it back to Walmart and compare it to what those little 2.8 oz bottles of that brand and the others say. Maybe I'll exchange it for something else. I only bought that one since it was a bigger bottle than all the others.
|
|
|
Post by sweepleader on Sept 15, 2018 6:03:22 GMT -5
Yes, do check carefully. There are two classes for two cycle oil for a reason that engine and oil manufacturers feel is important. You should be able to buy oil in quarts, I have two of the little bottles I use to measure with, they are kept in my chainsaw tool box.
It is a small plastic thing that goes with the saw and the gas can when I go lumbering. I keep a quart of engine oil, a quart of bar oil, those two little bottles, files and guides, wrenches, a rag, a large and a small screwdriver, some extra bar nuts, a couple spare chains and an air filter in there. The box is only about 8x8x16, very handy.
|
|
|
Post by vankjeff on Sept 15, 2018 12:18:07 GMT -5
YAZOO!! It just fired up fine after I let it sit overnight with the plug pulled to let the crankcase air out so I set the L mixture to get max idle & then I reset the Idle Speed. I don't even remember the last time this thing would just sit there and idle. But this brings up another point you guys might be able to tell me what's going on. For as long as I can remember, whenever I would release the throttle after using it, about ½ the time it doesn't go all the way down to idle and it just sits there running at a very fast idle or not even an Idle Speed. So I know to just blip the throttle a few times and then it will always drop down to wherever the Idle Speed is set at. What's up in there and is there an easy fix or should I just live with it doing this as I've been doing? I looked at what it might take to get into that PUSH TO STOP knob and it would take a lot of screws and bolts to remove the orange blower housing and other stuff in order to access that knob. Here's a photo of me adjusting the Idle Speed and also one of the knob that lets you set a Running Speed so you don't need to keep squeezing the trigger or that you can use to kill the engine.
I'd said YAZOO here instead of YAHOO as an inside joke since I used to use YAZOO mowers in the lawn maintenance business that I'd created that I named Lawnicure Inc (think of Lawn Manicure) back in Indianapolis as I was in high school and putting myself thru college taking night classes at IUPUI. I think that Yazoos were the first commercial mowers with the deck out front. The rear wheel was what steered it and there was a diff in the drive axle. This was in the days just before the newer ZTR - Zero Turning Radius type mowers were coming onto the market. That Yazoo was old fashioned looking and they'd not changed how it looked or was designed in a long, long time. Those things were SUPER dependable. I mean, they never broke and even if something needed replacing, it was simple since everything was accessible without removing anything and you could see it. Here's a PIC. I went thru plenty of these before I switched to the ZTR Hustler mowers that were big commercial mowers that drove like bulldozers. At one time, I had 3 Hustlers. The red one is a Yazoo and the yellow one is a Hustler.
|
|
|
Post by vankjeff on Sept 15, 2018 12:30:14 GMT -5
The throttle trigger operates a long L-shaped rod that goes to the carburetor. The linkage can be seen here: Throttle parts
There is a slot in the blower housing that the rod moves in, if there is a buildup of dirt or debris, it may cause the rod to get stuck and not return to idle. The slot is circled in red in the picture below: HB180V housing by Elijah J, on Flickr So I guess I should take it apart and check it out. Thanks for this photo and your description. But I should tell you that I really doubt that any dirt or debris is in there. I've only used this blower indoors at low RPMs to basically use as a broom in my go-kart wheel manufacturing business to get the floor cleaned up quicker that with a broom and more thoroughly under tables, carts & machines. It looks like I can remove that whole piece if I just take out some screws. That's pretty easy. But if it's not a dirt issue as I suspect, could I spray anywhere with any of these and which one?
PRO 21 Spray Grease - LOCK-EASE
- TRI-FLOW
I'd really rather just start hy trying spraying some lube in without taking anything apart or maybe only taking it partway apart by loosening or removing a few screws. Can you tell me precisely or show me with a diagram where I would want to spray it, hopefully from outside the housing?
|
|
|
Post by sweepleader on Sept 15, 2018 12:54:00 GMT -5
I would not use grease of any type, the less stickiness the better. Lock-ease might be a bit light, if those were my only choices, I would go with the Tri-flow. One drop of oil at the pivot point might do just as well. Spray and pray is not my usual method.
|
|
|
Post by 1975 Super XL on Sept 15, 2018 13:01:34 GMT -5
A graphite lubricant would be best. I think it would be better to lubricate specific areas instead of just spraying anywhere. The main areas to lubricate would be where the trigger slides in the housing, where the rod pivots, the throttle lock mechanism, where the throttle rod contacts the carburetor, and anywhere else moving parts contact. Sanding the surface rust (if present) off the lever may also help, especially where the lever contacts the carburetor.
|
|
|
Post by vankjeff on Sept 15, 2018 13:18:16 GMT -5
A graphite lubricant would be best. I think it would be better to lubricate specific areas instead of just spraying anywhere. The main areas to lubricate would be where the trigger slides in the housing, where the rod pivots, the throttle lock mechanism, where the throttle rod contacts the carburetor, and anywhere else moving parts contact. Sanding the surface rust (if present) off the lever may also help, especially where the lever contacts the carburetor. That's weird that just before I read this, it had occurred to me that it's probably a problem with "where the trigger slides in the housing" I'll assume that for now and take a look.
|
|
|
Post by vankjeff on Sept 15, 2018 13:50:34 GMT -5
I just played with squeezing the throttle trigger and it is totally free feeling. That's probably why I've always been so baffled about why it hangs up at different levels at least once everytime I use it. I've always just blipped the throttle to get it to drop to Idle but it usually works like it should. Any guesses or should I just live with it like I have been for years? This isn't my PIC. I just copied yours from your posting.
|
|