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Post by makowicki on May 4, 2018 16:47:26 GMT -5
Looking for a gas cap for a homelite 410 and an older super xl. The super xl cap appears to have finer threads than all my others
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Post by sweepleader on May 4, 2018 16:50:03 GMT -5
I don't know about the 410 but the old SXL does have fine threads. It will be a black cap with 8 finger lumps around the edge instead of the serrated hex shape. There was a discussion here of the SXL caps not too long ago but I cannot find it.
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Post by Deleted on May 4, 2018 18:07:38 GMT -5
On the subject of that older gas cap, I believe its the same as one on a c-72. I recently got one in a parts lot I bought. I put it on my C-72 because the one on my C-72 had a broken finger lump the one I got did not. However I did notice that there is something on the inside in the center. I am guessing some sort of check valve but it isn't a duck bill and is metal. the new cap of course did have one and my old cap does. I tugged at it a bit but it felt pretty solid. Is this something that could be interchanged or even yet is it needed
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dynodave
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Post by dynodave on May 4, 2018 19:08:37 GMT -5
We probably talked about fuel caps on my SXLAO thread and mine is a rather late "early" one and did not have the 8 lobed cap but it is a fine thread version. This 64140 ebay one is a SXLAO PN correct one  ?? www.ebay.com/itm/Homelite-Fuel-Gas-Cap-Part-A-62140-1-A-64140-A-/273150508434sintered bronze baffle? I'm curious if it is a cover for a duck bill. My XL12 has one but it still pisses fuel like crazy when on it's side and if there is a dead (E-10 poison) duck bill under the bronze baffle that would explain the leak. |
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Post by sweepleader on May 4, 2018 21:00:48 GMT -5
There is a check valve in there but I have never had trouble with one so I don't know if it is a duck bill or something different.
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Post by onlyhomelites on May 4, 2018 21:12:12 GMT -5
The most common "fine" thread cap available is the supercession model A-65741, but the cap at the above link is also correct and a great price. There is a duckbill under the aluminum tube; the tube can be removed with visegrips and the valve replaced. The same for the cintered bronze style caps... Here's a video I made for the bronze style replacement: The cap that John is talking about I believe is an early style fine thread cap that uses the 55865 type of vent that has a small slit in a piece of rubber that is adhered to a metal frame and snaps into the top of the fuel cap. With that style of cap, you do need this in place or the cap will leak badly. For the 410, I have several styles of cap in stock: www.leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com/apps/search?q=homelite+410+cap |
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dynodave
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Post by dynodave on May 5, 2018 8:30:10 GMT -5
Leon
Thanks for the video. Fixed the leaker gas cap on the 78 XL12. OHHH I hate the black goo.
FWIW it takes the short homelite duck bill. The hole is not deep enough for the longer poulan duck bill.
Most people do not know the actual mounting rim of the duck bill is the same size on both types.
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Post by Deleted on May 5, 2018 10:11:32 GMT -5
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dynodave
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Post by dynodave on May 5, 2018 10:55:47 GMT -5
Usually anything that was assembled can be disassembled.
My SXLAO cap is the hard black plastic hex type and has the same aluminum keeper insert as yours.
I can clearly see a dead duck bill in there.
The insert on mine is probably aluminum and is heavily corroded.
It is roughly 5/16" measures .312".
I would mount mine in the bridgeport and capture it in a 5/16 collet and pull it out.
If it fights to hard or crumbles I will bore it out and make a new insert rather than kill the cap.
Clean the old duck bill out and replace with new and press in the aluminum keeper.
UPDATE: heavily corroded aluminum keeper tip broke off, will have to drill out and make a new one.
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Post by sweepleader on May 5, 2018 13:28:56 GMT -5
Good plan though, with the collet. A guy should have a small 6 jaw chuck or a collet block so he did not need a mill to close the collet. "They" made a collet tool for pulling dowel pins back in the day that would likely work. It closed a collet on the dowel and pulled it with a slide hammer, worked like a charm. I have not seen one for ages. Update, I should have looked at Snap-on's web page, for a mere $400 you could own one. Of course you have to decide if you want metric or SAE, it does not say if you could get both sets of collets with a single tool. store.snapon.com/Dowel-Pin-Puller-Sets-C676035.aspx |
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Post by onlyhomelites on May 5, 2018 13:37:20 GMT -5
I'm not too picky about the inside of my gas caps, so I just use narrow nose vise grips. A couple of twist & pulls will almost always get it out. Then the black goo can be cleaned up. This style will take either the short or long duckbill valve. |
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Post by Deleted on May 5, 2018 14:56:39 GMT -5
Okay next question is I have a bunch of what are supposed to be homelite NOS duckbills and I have put new ones in most of my caps. Will these also turn to black goo or did that problem get cleared up lol?
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Post by chainsawlady on May 5, 2018 15:21:48 GMT -5
John
The plug inside of your cap on the picture pulls out. Under that is the duckbill. You will see if has melted.
When replacing duckbill have the point facing towards the plug when you replace it. This lets the air into tank, but gas can't leak out. I use a pliers to pull the plug out. Most of the duckbills now are red and I think they last longer.
joycewilson26@gmail.com
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dynodave
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Post by dynodave on May 5, 2018 15:24:30 GMT -5
As a true and intelligent classic saw owner, who no longer will allow E-10(mix) in any saw you own, the goo should not return.
Your carb kits will last many more years, and the crank seals should not die early like on a 2013 Poulan Pro 4218A that was given to me a few months ago. How do I know there was E-10mix? I needed big channel locks to unscrew the seized plastic poulan gas cap to pour out the remaining mix. After 2 weeks drying out, it screws back in just fine....
On my SXLAO cap, the aluminum tube was SO corroded it was almost corroded away and just snapped off when I pulled a little. It was truly DEAD. But I can make a new one easy enough, and save the cap. 10-15 minutes on the lathe.
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