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Post by rarefish383 on Apr 5, 2018 17:10:20 GMT -5
My other 1050's were Super Automatics. This one is just a Super 1050. It's the one I got a couple weeks ago for $150. Decided to take a look at it today. It looks like someone put some time and effort into it. Looks like the carb has been gone through, new fuel line, new muffler and screen. Piston, rings and cylinder look good. I rinsed the tank and put in fresh mix and put a shot of mix in the carb. Several pulls and it started right up, but buy the time I got the choke off it stalled. The trigger lock is missing so I couldn't hold it wide open while cranking. All of my other 1050's I could set the bar on a log and hold the trigger with my right hand and pull it with my left hand. I was in the garage so I was trying to hold it down with my left and pull with my right. The first couple pulls I was pulling enough starter rope out the piston was probably going up and down 3 times. After a couple good pops, I couldn't long arm the starter. I could get the piston to spin over one time and it would pop and snatch the handle out of my hand. Maybe tomorrow I'll get it down to the wood pile where I can rest the bar on a log and drop start it. I'm sure if I could get a good pull on the starter it would go. One thing I saw that might have been a problem, where the fuel line comes into the carb box one the left and makes an "S" turn to go into the carb, it looked like it was pinched shut. I massaged it a little and it looked like it relaxed and opened up. I can't believe I'm getting so old I can't start my favorite saw like I used to. With the 24" bar I'd hold the trigger in my right hand and just snatch the started with my left, just can't do it anymore. My other one I still have, that's a known good runner does the same thing. Saws that were made for men, Sucks getting old, Joe.
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Post by rarefish383 on Apr 5, 2018 17:11:09 GMT -5
Sorry, the pics look worse here than in person, Joe.
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Post by rarefish383 on Apr 5, 2018 17:16:38 GMT -5
Another thought on it popping back and snatching the handle out of my hand. The 1050 I used to mill with, I put a Nova II electronic module in it, after I did that it seemed to be harder to pull over. I told the mechanic where I bought the Nova II's, and he said he thought the electronic module advanced the timing a bit, and made it harder to start. But, it would run just as good or better. I've never had a problem with it running, but it is hard to start too, Joe.
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Post by sweepleader on Apr 5, 2018 19:06:30 GMT -5
I had an SXL with a chip, very tough to start. I have an XL-500 with a chip that starts great, go figure.
That fuel line looks too long, if you are not replacing it, pull it off the carb and cut 1/4" off. Or drag some of it into the tank. It will straighten out quite a bit I bet.
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will
Collector
Posts: 80
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Post by will on Apr 5, 2018 22:12:50 GMT -5
Sorry, the pics look worse here than in person, Joe. try resize the pictures to under 250KB and they should be better
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Post by undee70ss on Apr 6, 2018 2:06:06 GMT -5
Good deal for 150!!! Yours has (or has been upgraded) to the Walbro SDC carb. They are a fixed high speed with only a low mixture adjustment. If the low is set to lean, they will be hard to start.
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Post by rarefish383 on Apr 6, 2018 8:12:33 GMT -5
Thanks, Should I try setting the L to factory spec, or wait till I get it running. I've always been afraid of carbs, it seems I look at them and the go wonky. If I turn it out a 1/4 turn and it runs worse, I turn it back a 1/4, to where it was, and it runs even worse. One of my Dad's Super Automatics had a Tilly, and the other had an SDC. I do have an NOS SDC squirrelled away downstairs. I'm heading out to the garage in a few minutes, will report back if I get it running, Joe.
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Post by tjthechainsawmech on Apr 6, 2018 8:14:33 GMT -5
That was a steal
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Post by rarefish383 on Apr 6, 2018 10:45:53 GMT -5
AH HA HA, Have you ever seen an old fat guy with a replaced left knee, a bad right knee, and a bad back dancing in the street, if so it was me. Took the saw down on the court where I have a Cherry log waiting to be milled. I was able to rest the bar on the log, grip the trigger in my right hand, grip the starter handle in my left, and push the saw away from my body. Put the choke on and with the 3rd pull it fired up. Was able to push the choke in before it stalled, and it kept running. Was running kind of fast, chain spinning. Blipped the throttle a couple times and as it warmed up some it idled right down. After a minute it was idling like a baby cooing in a cradle, chain not spinning. In this pic it's just sitting there purring. I am Hap Hap Happy, Joe.
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Post by rarefish383 on Apr 6, 2018 10:46:56 GMT -5
I've got to get on youtube, I'm just having toooo much fun and not able to share it, Joe.
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Post by rarefish383 on Apr 6, 2018 14:42:53 GMT -5
Another question about hard starting. I've always locked the trigger wide open or held the trigger wide open when stating any saw. Would that have anything to do with the way it starts, Joe.
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Post by sweepleader on Apr 6, 2018 16:00:46 GMT -5
Trigger locks generally hold the throttle at a very fast idle. Air moving through the carb is needed to draw in fuel, if the throttle is wide open, the air speed will be low and Bernoulli will not do his thing. I think it might very well be easier to start with the throttle not so wide, just wide enough so it will keep running when it does fire. I always use the trigger lock so I do not have a lot of tries with the throttle all the way open.
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Post by rarefish383 on Apr 6, 2018 20:03:23 GMT -5
Trigger locks generally hold the throttle at a very fast idle. Air moving through the carb is needed to draw in fuel, if the throttle is wide open, the air speed will be low and Bernoulli will not do his thing. I think it might very well be easier to start with the throttle not so wide, just wide enough so it will keep running when it does fire. I always use the trigger lock so I do not have a lot of tries with the throttle all the way open. But will having the throttle closed make it harder to pull over, and make it pop back ripping the starter through your fingers. With the throttle open it cranked easy, with it closed, I couldn't pull the rope 6 inches and it popped back. I can't use the trigger lock, the whole mechanism is missing, Joe.
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Post by sweepleader on Apr 6, 2018 21:10:00 GMT -5
Sorry if I was not clear, I did not mean it would be easier to pull over. The reason it is hard to pull over is the chip. It obviously will start if you can get it past the first pop. With the chip you will have to pull it faster. That may not be possible given the trouble you have described. Also holding the throttle open may reduce the fuel and make it not want to start, but then you can pull it faster/harder and it starts because it did not backfire and yank the rope out of your hand. Seems to be a backwards sort of thought but it might be near the truth, who knows? IF (that's a big if) it could be pulled over, I think it would start easier at mid throttle than at full throttle. IF (another big if) it could be pulled over and it pops with a closed throttle, the problem would be solved. I would suggest you try a different chip or go back to points. The points may be in there, just disconnected. You know the coil is good, it sparks with the chip. If you reconnect the points after cleaning and gapping them, and it won't run, I think the condenser is bad. That may be the reason it got the carb done and the chip. The SXL I had with the chip behaved exactly as you describe your saw. I hurt my shoulder pulling it before I got the hang of it. I sold it before I did permanent damage but it took a couple of months to heal up. Your 1050 is quite a bit bigger and must be a serious PITA. Here's hoping you get it straightened out.
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Post by rarefish383 on Apr 6, 2018 22:03:52 GMT -5
I'm sorry, I'm the one mixing and matching saws. This one is the one I just bought a couple weeks ago. Since it had spark, I haven't checked the ignition on it. My other 1050 that I used to use for milling is the one with the chip. I got this one running this morning. What I'm trying to say, whether it starts or not. Whether the key is on or not. It cranks over easier with the throttle open. If you put your foot in the rear handle, hold the top handle with your left hand, and pull the starter rope with your right hand, with no throttle, you can only pull a couple inches of rope and it snatches back. Do everything the exact same way, but open the throttle and you can pull an arms length of rope and it spins over much easier. Two of my 1050's I've had over 40 years, and the 3rd one I just got. They all act pretty much the same way, they are easier to pull over with the throttle open, and harder to pull over with the throttle closed. It's almost like having the throttle open lets some compression bleed off, making it easier to pull. Does that make sense? If I could shoot a video it would be clear, I'm not always good at explaning things, Joe.
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will
Collector
Posts: 80
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Post by will on Apr 6, 2018 22:05:25 GMT -5
Sorry if I was not clear, I did not mean it would be easier to pull over. The reason it is hard to pull over is the chip. It obviously will start if you can get it past the first pop. With the chip you will have to pull it faster. That may not be possible given the trouble you have described. Also holding the throttle open may reduce the fuel and make it not want to start, but then you can pull it faster/harder and it starts because it did not backfire and yank the rope out of your hand. Seems to be a backwards sort of thought but it might be near the truth, who knows? IF (that's a big if) it could be pulled over, I think it would start easier at mid throttle than at full throttle. IF (another big if) it could be pulled over and it pops with a closed throttle, the problem would be solved. I would suggest you try a different chip or go back to points. The points may be in there, just disconnected. You know the coil is good, it sparks with the chip. If you reconnect the points after cleaning and gapping them, and it won't run, I think the condenser is bad. That may be the reason it got the carb done and the chip. The SXL I had with the chip behaved exactly as you describe your saw. I hurt my shoulder pulling it before I got the hang of it. I sold it before I did permanent damage but it took a couple of months to heal up. Your 1050 is quite a bit bigger and must be a serious PITA. Here's hoping you get it straightened out. On My 900 series saw, the saw is twice as easy to pull if the trigger lock is on, That said, I've just recently discovered a few issues with it and don't know if that was a contributing factor.
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Post by undee70ss on Apr 7, 2018 0:41:02 GMT -5
In my experience all saws are different, some need a little throttle to start, others don’t. You just have to figure out what YOUR saw likes.
Any saw that the ignition timing is advanced, you will need a very strong pull or it will jerk the handle right out of your fingers.
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Post by rarefish383 on Apr 9, 2018 15:51:24 GMT -5
Sounded sooo good, wanted a bigger tree, but didn't have the trailer and wasn't lifting anything bigger. New chain stretched a bit, will be adjusted before next trip out, Joe.
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Post by sweepleader on Apr 9, 2018 16:07:53 GMT -5
Some carb cleaner sprayed on a rag might wipe that number off the air filter cover. It might take the rest of the paint off too so be quick about it.
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Post by rarefish383 on Apr 9, 2018 18:13:47 GMT -5
Some carb cleaner sprayed on a rag might wipe that number off the air filter cover. It might take the rest of the paint off to so be quick about it. I learned that one the hard way. Sprayed a Super EZ and forgot about it. Came back to bare metal.
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