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Post by Deleted on Mar 13, 2018 12:34:07 GMT -5
I was told by a reputable parts dealer & saw builder that when I switch over to using Armsoil that I can't mix it with any other 2 cycle mix that might be left in the tank.He said that I must make sure that the tank is completely devoid of all fuel & even the fumes of a previous 2 cycle mix & the carb must be bone dry as well.He told me that he switched over to the Armsoil on a demo day he had at his shop & when he did that his saw took off to such a high speed.He said he had to turn in the lo idle screw a full 2 turns.I'm thinking why the hell did you have the lo idle screw turned out so far to begin with?As far as I know,the lo idle screw should be around 1 1/2 - 1 3/4 turns screwed out after seating.Am I wrong?I know every carb is different,just like every person is different.
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Post by Brian VT on Mar 13, 2018 13:59:54 GMT -5
Some oils are not compatible with each other but I would think draining the tank would be more than sufficient. I suspect he had an air leak or something to cause an engine to run away like that.
I've had to put non-compatible oil/fuel in my dirtbike (I normally use Amsoil) when in a bind on a long ride and I've never had a problem.
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Post by sweepleader on Mar 13, 2018 14:07:59 GMT -5
I haven't used Amsoil myself but I can see where switching from a 32:1 conventional mix to an 80:1 synthetic mix would cause a need for minor adjustments. There would be a more gas in the mix when there is less oil. Seems like it would lead to an overly rich situation, not over speed. I agree with Brian, dump the tank and go for it, readjust as needed and I agree with you too, about why was the screw so far out in the first place? Two turns is a lot.
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Post by onlyhomelites on Mar 13, 2018 14:37:13 GMT -5
Yeah, that story sounds fishy to me too. What I have found is that when I test run a saw on my 80:1 mix, I have to richen it up about 1/16th of a turn before I ship it back to the customer that uses 32:1. The customer fuel has less gasoline, so the saw will stumble on acceleration and run lean in a hard cut. Two full turns sounds a lot more like an air leak...the reality is that after the first 2 1/2 turns, you aren't adjusting much anyhow.
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Post by jerseyhighlander on Mar 13, 2018 16:21:12 GMT -5
I was told by a reputable parts dealer & saw builder that when I switch over to using Armsoil that I can't mix it with any other 2 cycle mix that might be left in the tank.He said that I must make sure that the tank is completely devoid of all fuel & even the fumes of a previous 2 cycle mix & the carb must be bone dry as well.He told me that he switched over to the Armsoil on a demo day he had at his shop & when he did that his saw took off to such a high speed.He said he had to turn in the lo idle screw a full 2 turns.I'm thinking why the hell did you have the lo idle screw turned out so far to begin with?As far as I know,the lo idle screw should be around 1 1/2 - 1 3/4 turns screwed out after seating.Am I wrong?I know every carb is different,just like every person is different. Whenever someone tells me something like that, they immediately get filed in the mental "zero confidence" category. If you asked him to explain any of the details at all, in a scientific manner, on why the mix was responsible for that or what problem/reaction it was causing, I'd bet big money you would just get a blank stare or some baseless ranting and raving. It's just too absurd for words. Roughly 15 years using Amsoil, switched back and forth when I had to, numerous used machines purchased that I never went through any ridiculous ritual with and never once any trouble. |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 13, 2018 18:00:39 GMT -5
I don't know if this matters at all,but he said he used the dry formula that comes in packets.Maybe it wasn't mixed thoroughly.
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Post by sweepleader on Mar 13, 2018 19:34:37 GMT -5
What is the dry formula?
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Post by Deleted on Mar 13, 2018 19:44:11 GMT -5
It comes in pkts.that you dump in the gas & mix up. |
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Post by onlyhomelites on Mar 13, 2018 20:49:31 GMT -5
Huh, never seen that before. I've seen little packets of liquid about twice the size of a ketchup packet...I'm not even sure how a dry formula is possible! I really think this guy was pulling your leg!
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Post by Deleted on Mar 13, 2018 21:23:04 GMT -5
Maybe it was a different brand other than Armsoil.I'll be talking with him in another week,he's got my Tillotson HU63 carb,putting a new inlet elbow in it for me for my 340(everyone said that I can't get that part,ha ha.he went to Hong Kong to get a bunch of them).Anyway,I'll mention the 2 cycle mix again & see if his story is consistent.He also told me that 110# on 5 pulls on that 340 short block I bought was too low.He said a real good engine will have 90# on one pull.I have my doubts on that one too.
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Post by Brian VT on Mar 14, 2018 7:05:09 GMT -5
I replied assuming that you meant Amsoil. I have no experience with Armsoil.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 14, 2018 7:57:00 GMT -5
I replied assuming that you meant Amsoil. I have no experience with Armsoil. Sorry for the misspelling |
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Post by Brian VT on Mar 14, 2018 8:20:19 GMT -5
...110# on 5 pulls on that 340 short block I bought was too low. Correct, assuming his tester has a Schrader valve in the tip. |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 14, 2018 10:03:37 GMT -5
So I should put a new rring in then?I might as well since the thing is almost apart now anyway.
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Post by Brian VT on Mar 14, 2018 10:13:39 GMT -5
Sure, if the cylinder isn't scored and the piston is still good.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 14, 2018 10:56:22 GMT -5
Sure, if the cylinder isn't scored and the piston is still good. Yeah,both are good,that's why I bought it. |
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Post by onlyhomelites on Mar 14, 2018 21:27:56 GMT -5
I'll be interested to see if a new ring makes a noticeable difference. I have not had a lot of luck putting new rings in a used cylinder and getting much of a bump in compression. If the compression test was made completely dry, then the reading is a bit low. It's hard to do when you are reassembling a saw like you are, but the best test is under running conditions, which means a residue of oil in the cylinder. If you've got 110 dry, I'd guess that it's more like 120-125. Anyone else have a thought on this?
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Post by Deleted on Mar 14, 2018 23:16:20 GMT -5
I don't know the specs here,but I was told that a new engine was around 140 #.I immediately told him he was wrong because I acquired a 290 on the same day & that comp.rerading was pushing 160 # (on a cold engine).That told me that the 290 was practically new.That was the saw that had the screwed up inlet elbow on the carb & a melted vent line.
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Post by sweepleader on Mar 15, 2018 6:50:28 GMT -5
Oil will definatly improve the compression reading. Oil on a new but broken in and warm ring/piston will give the best reading, any other combination or dry will be less. A seated/broken in ring will be better than brand new oiled or dry. Carbon on the piston or combustion chamber will increase the reading.
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Post by tommyhnavix on May 20, 2018 22:09:08 GMT -5
Have used, sold and recommended Amsoil for over 20 years on all brands of Saws at 64:1 ratio. Just adjust carb accordingly. Also remember to richen the carb up if you put on a shorter bar and chain so as not to over speed engine.Fuel with a Amsoil will mix on top of other mixed FRESH fuel. No compatibility problems. Still best to dump out other or old mixed fuel before filling up with Amsoil fuel mix. Keep carb. adjusted accordingly and it will work great!! Longer plug life, less smoking, easier starts and more power! What's not to like?
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