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Post by brushy on Mar 11, 2018 19:34:07 GMT -5
Would I have to remove the spark plug wire?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2018 19:46:21 GMT -5
No,200 degrees isn't going to get hot enough to melt anything.I'm sure some bozos run their saw way hotter than that with a dull chain & no oil in it.That's why so many SEZ's have fried engines.If it'd make you feel any safer,wrap it in foil.Like I said,Leon (only homelites) did about 10 ofg them just recently,& 9 out of 10 got revived.
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Post by brushy on Mar 12, 2018 5:47:14 GMT -5
Thank you for the info, I’ll try that tonight after work. I’ve already ordered another coil from amazon and I’m in the process of sending the other new one back. If this works, I could keep the replacement( providing that it’s not a lemon too) in my spare parts cabinet for future repairs.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 12, 2018 9:16:34 GMT -5
It's always great to have spare parts around,this means very little down time.Now if the baking of the old module works,make sure you try out the new module as well so you don't have a dud lying around for your spare.Keep me posted on your progress.
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Post by brushy on Mar 12, 2018 11:17:53 GMT -5
Will do
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Post by brushy on Mar 12, 2018 19:55:05 GMT -5
Well, I’ve “baked” the old coil, gave the whole unit a good cleaning, and put part of it back together. In hindsight, I wish I would have taken “before” pictures. I don’t know what the last owner was using for bar oil, but it looked like the whole machine was coated in lithium grease. I guess he must have stored it in a mud hole, and drug it behind his truck when he went to cut wood. It’s a good thing it was given to me, if someone would have brought me that saw to work on, I’d have told them to fly a kite.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 12, 2018 22:48:11 GMT -5
Don't you just love how people treat their equipment? The sad thing is they do that & can't understand why it won't run.Just put gas in & go.
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Post by brushy on Mar 13, 2018 15:38:46 GMT -5
Well, by dumb luck, I discovered a sure fire way to know if a coil is generating. I received another new coil today, and I tried both the new coil, and the old one I “baked” yesterday. After banging my head against the wall due to still no spark, I tried using my inline spark tester in a different way. I hooked the plug end of the tester to the boot, and pulled the sleeve back exposing the end that connects to the spark plug. I grounded the exposed clamp to the cylinder, pulled the starter cord and EUREKA...light. I’m sure I’m not the only one who’s tried this, but I now feel like I’m heading in the right direction. The new spark plug I have is some new dangled high performance plug( the only one Walmart had that advertised as a replacement for the Champion RCJ6Y), and I guess the coil just won’t jump the gap. Tonight, I’m heading to Auto Zone for the right plug. They’ve never let me down before. Hopefully, this experience will help someone else out. By the way, I’m doing this with an empty fuel tank for safety.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 13, 2018 18:16:20 GMT -5
Did you know that an empty tank in certain situations can be more dangerous than a full tank?This is because an empty tank still has fumes which are more likely to ignite than raw gas.
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Post by brushy on Mar 14, 2018 10:59:16 GMT -5
Did you know that an empty tank in certain situations can be more dangerous than a full tank?This is because an empty tank still has fumes which are more likely to ignite than raw gas. It hasn’t had any fuel in it for some time. I’m good.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 14, 2018 11:28:57 GMT -5
Good to know.Keep this info in mind,don't ask me how I know this,let's just say that 37 yrs.ago I was damn lucky!
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Post by brushy on Mar 14, 2018 11:35:57 GMT -5
I just went through this on my 8800...if you go through everything else, including a new coil and you still don't have spark, you better take a look at the flywheel. Specifically the strength of the magnets; the giveaway in hindsight on my saw was that the old flywheel barely had enough pull to hold the coil through my gapping tool (business card). I've since read about flywheels a bit more and found that excessive heat or a hard hit in the right spot can cause a magnet to fail. I’ve baked the old coil, tried both new coils and two new spark plugs, and the old plug. I’ve since found that I am getting current from the coils(all of them). I use my inline spark tester without a plug and grounded the clamp end to the cylinder. I got it to light up. No light with a plug on the end. I’m going to try different gap settings on the coil. If that doesn’t work, the only thing left is a new flywheel. The magnets seem strong enough, there just doesn’t seem to be enough current to jump the gap.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 14, 2018 14:31:16 GMT -5
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on Mar 14, 2018 22:40:53 GMT -5
brushy
The 20K scale..( up to 20000 ohms).. is the correct range/scale setting on your meter.
The new module reading of 3.9 is actually 3900 ohms..,that is why there is no reading on the 2000 or 200 ohms scale.
To compensate for possible weak magnets..try reducing the air gap to .004 - .008 " Brass feeler blades work well for this..or 2-3 stacked pieces of paper.
Eliminate the inline tester and just use a spark plug for the test.To ensure a good ground connect a jumper lead from the metal body of the plug to a cooling fin of the cylinder.
Switch in run position..crank engine and look for spark...best of luck !
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Post by brushy on Mar 15, 2018 6:34:37 GMT -5
Thanks for clearing that up about the resistance scale. I was quite confused. I’m going to try different gap settings on the coil today. I got to reading, and thinking, that maybe the magnets are screwed up in the flywheel. The magnet seems pretty strong, but maybe the polarity has been altered, changing the field. As the magnet passes the coil, it just don’t get the “Imphal” it should. If closing the gap to increase the field don’t work, I’ll be going to Leon for a replacement.
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Post by brushy on Mar 15, 2018 19:02:07 GMT -5
SPARK!!! I set the gap at .008 and got spark. Now I finally feel like I’m getting somewhere. I now know that the coil that was on saw is not the coil this machine was supposed to have. The killswitch terminal was too big for the new killswitch wire I bought. This is why the terminal end was spliced on with a wire nut. So the new coil worked out. Thanks to everyone for your help. I’ll have more questions in the fuel system threads.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 15, 2018 20:17:42 GMT -5
Hooray!
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on Mar 15, 2018 22:25:13 GMT -5
Nice work brushy !! ..You're welcome,glad I could help.
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Post by brushy on Apr 14, 2018 20:49:22 GMT -5
So, in the end I had to set my gap at .008”. After viewing Acres for my Super EZ Auto, I found that the gap setting was between .008” and .012”, just for anyone wondering about their saws. After a lot of toil and trouble, it ran. I made some carb adjustments, and it’s now ready to go. I’ll post some picks under b2316 resurrection in general repair.
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dynodave
Saw Builder
equal opportunity GEARHEAD
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Post by dynodave on Jun 14, 2018 6:53:28 GMT -5
A very low primary resistance 2-8 ohms would probably mean it is a points/coil ignition NOT an EI module. I am showing around 225 ohms from the shorting terminal to ground on more than one functioning phelon EI module .
Certain physical shock or heat can lower the flywheel gauss which seems to be your problem. With the right equipment it could be regaussed to be as good as new or sometimes better. However different magnetic materials do each have a natural gauss limit and will take or store no more than a certain amount.
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