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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2018 10:44:06 GMT -5
Since there's no area to post for the 150 Auto,I thought I'd post here because of the similarities in the cc.'s.I have a 150 Auto - that's what it says for the model,& ser.# 33110616.If I'm reading this correctly,it was made on the 311th day of 1983,& 616th unit made that day? Anyway,I've got all the screws out to split the outer shell apart,but I need to know what to do to get it apart.Do I put a screwdriver in that crack & try to pry it apart,or tap on it to get it apart?I don't want to mess something up.This saw looks to me like it was barely used,mostly abused.I need to replace the recoil pulley - got it,attach a new spark plug boot & spring - got it,& there's something screwed up with the choke lever in there because I can't get it to move either way - open or closed.I know there are a rod & spring that belong in there.It acts like it's seized,but I do have those parts if needed.According to Acres'site,this saw was introduced in 1986,which I know is not right.Maybe the electronic ignition was introduced then,but I know there were blue 150's out there,which means theyu were introduced prior to 1972 or 1973.Thanks in advance!
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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2018 13:26:40 GMT -5
Update - I found one screw that I'd missed earlier.Of course this has to be one of the most inaccessible screws to get at.I used the ATF/acetone soak,then I applied heat.As you can see,the head is stripped out.This saw is in too good of a shape to throw out,I took the muffler off & the pston & cylinder is pristine.I did notice a lot of oil dripping out of the muffler.My guess is that someone put oil in the gas tank & did a lot of pulling on the recoil which damaged the pulley - it's warped.Any ideas are welcome to get this screw out.Thanks! 20180225_131129 by edju1958, on Flickr
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Post by sweepleader on Feb 25, 2018 13:36:42 GMT -5
Get some "valve lapping compound" from an auto parts supplier, dip the normal, correct driver in it, hammer it (lightly) into the screw and turn it out. Use of this works well with standard drivers or with an impact driver. www.amazon.com/Permatex-80037-Valve-Grinding-Compound/dp/B000HBM80M?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=pda0d8-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B000HBM80MThere are a hundred different brands/types, grease with grinding dust in it, gritty. www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648002-2-Inch-Impact-Driver/dp/B004QO9FK2?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B004QO9FK2Many brands of theses too, insert bit, twist in the "off" direction and hold tight, strike with a hammer. The hammer blow drives the bit in tighter and at the same time a ramp in the tool twists it perhaps a quarter turn with huge torque. Use the valve lapping compound on the impact driver bit, especially if the screw is mungged up already, usually works. Works best if this stuff is used before the screw is too badly destroyed. If the screw recess is not damaged and can be driven with the normal driver, it can be reused. Obviously, if the screw is really bad, toss it, eh? :{) Sometimes a stuck screw can be loosened by striking the head with a flat tipped punch and a hammer. This will distort the screw and the hole to take the clamping force off the screw threads. A stuck screw in aluminum or mag will often respond to this and can be removed with normal tools.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2018 14:11:56 GMT -5
Thanks Sweepleader! I know I've seen this advice from you before,but unless you need it yourself,you tend to forget it.I've bee using my son's cordless drill driver,but since he's in construction he pretty much needs it everyday.I guess I need to get my own. One other question - since the screw in question is pretty much shot,where do I get a replacement screw?Hardware store?
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Post by sweepleader on Feb 25, 2018 14:26:21 GMT -5
An electric impact gun is not what I am referring to. And that is not the same as a drill driver. Those two do not do the same thing as an impact driver that uses a hammer for power. They can be used, either one, for initial disassembly, but the the impact driver (particularly with the lapping compound) is much more certain to remove a stuck screw. If I cannot remove a screw with a hand screw driver, I go straight to the impact driver. About 99% of the time a screw will come out without damage using that method. No need to find a new screw. Even if the screw is damaged so a normal driver will not work it often responds to the impact driver. The impact driver will also work with sockets on hex heads or proper adapters for other head types.
You might find a replacement screw locally, be sure it is the correct length and thread pitch. Many saws have been damaged by screws that did not fit properly. A better choice would be a parts saw or the usual places for other saw parts. Many of the screws used in saws are specialty screws with different heads or special lengths.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2018 15:40:44 GMT -5
Sweepleader,I knew what you meant by an impact driver.I have one for sockets only.I was only telling you what I had on hand & used.
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Post by sweepleader on Feb 25, 2018 17:37:08 GMT -5
Cool. Mine is 1/2" square drive so usually I use an adapter of some sort on it. I tend to get wordy sometimes but I try to include enough information that someone else, not directly in the conversation, will be able to tell what I am talking about too. I meant no ill will. :{)
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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2018 17:56:28 GMT -5
Sweepleader,I knew what you meant by an impact driver.I have one for sockets only.I was only telling you what I had on hand & used. No offense taken.Sometimes though,I forget that you're not only trying to explain things to me,but to others as well,who might not be as tool savvy as you & I are. I ordered the screwdriver driver & valve grinding compound.My grandfather used to use the compound for sharpening the old reel type lawnmower.
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Post by sweepleader on Feb 25, 2018 18:56:23 GMT -5
That lapping compound trick works with a standard Phillips driver too. I only learned about 10 or 15 years ago that Phillips drive was invented to prevent over torquing. It is supposed to cam out of the screw! I was floored when a buddy told me that, did some research and sure enough, that was the original plan. It has taken a long time to come up with drives that manufacturers will use that do not cam out.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2018 19:06:37 GMT -5
That lapping compound trick works with a standard Phillips driver too. I only learned about 10 or 15 years ago that Phillips drive was invented to prevent over torquing. It is supposed to cam out of the screw! I was floored when a buddy told me that, did some research and sure enough, that was the original plan. It has taken a long time to come up with drives that manufacturers will use that do not cam out. Also,I found this out when I had a yard sale a few yrs.back.The Philips head screw was not invented til post WWII or thereabouts.Previous to that,everything was slot headed.An old timer told me that while looking at an old kite winding spool I had for sale (that my son & I fished out of the neighbor's dumpster).
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Post by onlyhomelites on Feb 25, 2018 19:33:55 GMT -5
Well I can't believe we went this long with no 150 category and no one noticed! Problem solved and this thread now lives in its proper home.
One question though Ed: why are you taking the tank apart? I think all the normal wear parts are serviceable without splitting that case.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2018 19:42:57 GMT -5
I'm not taking the tank apart,I'm splitting the shell in half to service the carb & it's components like the choke rod & spring.As far as I know on the 150 the outer shell must come apart to access those.If there's another way,or if I'm doing something wrong,please advise me.
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chainsawer
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Homelite 150 oiling to much
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Post by chainsawer on Feb 25, 2018 20:10:26 GMT -5
i don't think it is necessary to remove those screws to access carb. The chainsaw guy shows how it is done check out his channel on u-tube
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Post by lesorubcheek on Feb 25, 2018 20:25:44 GMT -5
That's right, you don't need to remove those screws. In fact, they're not meant to ever be removed. To get to the carb, remove the air filter cover and filter and then the 2 screws you'll see where the choke is located. These go all the way through the carb to the intake manifold, The manifold is attached to the engine. You'll need to get the handle bar off, then the 2 bolts on top and 2 on the bottom. It may make it a little easier to take the muffler off so you can see inside a little better, but it's not necessary. Grab the handle mount that sticks up where the oil fill is, or grab the clutch, hold the body with the other hand and the engine will slide right out. The carb will still be inside on the body. There's 2 hollow tube pieces that will pull out where you removed the screws where the choke is under the air filter. The carb is now free. Be very careful to remember the linkage arrangement for the choke and the throttle. A picture here would be good. There's a special twist that I can't possibly explain, but twist around the carb and it'll free itself from the linkages. Oh, and the fuel line will still be attached, you probably need to pull it off to get more freedom of movement of the carb.
Dan
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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2018 21:00:58 GMT -5
Well that all well & good to get it apart.Now with twisting the carb to free itself from the linkages,understood.What I'd like to know is - HOW in the hell am I supposed to get those linkages back together again?Did the engineer who designed this saw have his head up his butt when he did it?
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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2018 21:13:38 GMT -5
Well that all well & good to get it apart.Now with twisting the carb to free itself from the linkages,understood.What I'd like to know is - HOW in the hell am I supposed to get those linkages back together again?Did the engineer who designed this saw have his head up his butt when he did it? No, engineering might have designed it, but the production line had to figure out how to put it together, bet they didn't get it on the first try either. It's like using a paint brush, it takes a lot of practice to be good at it, almost know one is going to get things on the first try. If you think that you will be frustrated a lot.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2018 21:20:53 GMT -5
Taking things apart is pretty much always a breese,putting them back together & HAVING THEM WORK- well that's quite a different story!Especially like a beginner like me.
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Post by lesorubcheek on Feb 25, 2018 21:23:06 GMT -5
It's not that hard, really. Just takes a little practice. Oh, one little trick, I've found that the L, H and idle speed jets can get in the way when putting it back together. I usually remove 'em until the linkages are in place and then slide those two hollow tube thingys with the aluminum plate deal to hold the carb in position.
Dan
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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2018 21:45:41 GMT -5
I'll take all the little hints & tricks I can get for this one.I'll give it a go tomorrow afternoon.Beware of the mushroom cloud in the east.Lol
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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2018 21:53:29 GMT -5
Taking things apart is pretty much always a breese,putting them back together & HAVING THEM WORK- well that's quite a different story!Especially like a beginner like me. I've had to coax and bend those wires a little and then straighten them after I got them hooked. I think Ill try hooking them up before I mount the carb and see if that will work amy better
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