Hub Sprocket Thrust Washer

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Part number 30 on the diagram (thrust washer) was not on my saw, part number 35 inner thrust washer was, in fact they had two of them. Part 30 is larger in diameter due to having to go over the thicker part of the shaft and around 2 inches across and made from harder steel than plain washers. I had some thrust washers that size so I installed it over the shaft, then placed the hub over the shaft and then put another smaller thrust washer between the spider clutch and the hub. A plain washer was used under the nut affixing the clutch assembly, did I get this right?

2000TW by Al Michaels, on Flickr

20180217_191204 by Al Michaels, on Flickr


2000TW2 by Al Michaels, on Flickr

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Here is a picture of the thrust washer I put on. If this washer wasn't installed the chain would not line up on the sprocket right, and that's what I noticed about my old sprocket, it had a lot of chain marks/dings on the outer hub


20180217_220811 by Al Michaels, on Flickr

[Clasec]

I looked at three parts saws and the thrust washer is thinner than what you're using. I don't have them apart to check the thickness of the washer but I would guess around .030in. and probably hardened.

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Feb 18, 2018 0:28:03 GMT -5 Clasec said:

I looked at three parts saws and the thrust washer is thinner than what you're using. I don't have them apart to check the thickness of the washer but I would guess around .030in. and probably hardened.

I thought it might be a little thicker when I put it on, but it was the only hardened washer I had, I didn't want to use a mild steel fender washer. Do you think it will be okay?

[5terrysupersaws]

Part #30 ID should be the same as the crankshaft..the thrust washer (30) goes on first...,then part #34 (bearing race)
then #31.. followed by #35 (inner thrust washer),..part 34 should be sandwiched between the thrust washers.
The clutch drum should turn freely with a little end play when fully assembled.

[sweepleader]

Like they ^^ said, a soft washer in the stack would crush and mess with the clearances. If it all fits nicely, all the washers are hard, there are enough threads to fill the nut, and the clutch spins freely, you should be good to go.

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Feb 18, 2018 1:43:36 GMT -5 5terrysupersaws said:

Part #30 ID should be the same as the crankshaft..the thrust washer (30) goes on first...,then part #34 (bearing race)
then #31.. followed by #35 (inner thrust washer),..part 34 should be sandwiched between the thrust washers.
The clutch drum should turn freely with a little end play when fully assembled.

I took it apart and removed part 34, I thought that was part of the crankshaft and had the big thrust washer OVER it. After I took it apart I replaced the big fatty washer with original thrust washer on the shaft. I had ordered one extra and wondered why, but I remembered one of the old washers had deep creases in it. So part 34 IS sandwiched between the thrust washers 

EDIT: I ordered the correct thrust washer, part 30 from Leon because I used part number 35 thrust washer for both sides and I think it a little bit smaller and thinner for the inside thrst washer.