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Post by brushcutter on Feb 9, 2018 20:22:51 GMT -5
I went out to a local scrap yard last weekend and found six Super EZ Automatic saws. Out of the six, one had a like new cylinder and piston in it. but the crankshaft was badly damaged. How hard is it to change the cylinder and piston over to the saw I want to get running? I had a bid on new piston and cylinder on Ebay but wasn't home when it ended, so I missed out. Changing out from the parts saw is plan #2. Any tricks or tips on doing this? Thanks, Tim
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Post by sweepleader on Feb 9, 2018 20:29:50 GMT -5
That should be fairly straight forward. You need to watch what you are doing is all. I don't have any tips but others will, hang on and they will be here to help.
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Post by onlyhomelites on Feb 9, 2018 21:39:03 GMT -5
It's not a hard swap, but it'll take a bit of time. You'll have to pull the carb & throttle handle off to access everything. The cylinder gasket and airbox gasket are one assembly and they almost always tear, so get one ahead of time. When swapping the piston, make sure the open end of the wrist pin and the ring gap is faced toward the starter. Not too much else to it!
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Post by fossil on Feb 9, 2018 21:57:12 GMT -5
I went out to a local scrap yard last weekend and found six Super EZ Automatic saws. Out of the six, one had a like new cylinder and piston in it. but the crankshaft was badly damaged. How hard is it to change the cylinder and piston over to the saw I want to get running? I had a bid on new piston and cylinder on Ebay but wasn't home when it ended, so I missed out. Changing out from the parts saw is plan #2. Any tricks or tips on doing this? Thanks, Tim It's fairly easy. If you're good at remembering where everything goes it won't be an issue. If not, take pictures as you take it apart. If my memory serves me correctly. Remove clutch cover, stater cover, mufler Coil, carb, carb adapter, fuel line at the carb and oil line (at the tank). Also the decomp rod at the carb box. Remove the carb box / rear handle (four bolts around the carb adapter and one on the lower handle brace) and spark plug Take the 4 nuts and lock washers off the cylinder base. I found it helpful to grind down a cheap combination wrench to make accessing the nuts easy. Carefully remove the cylinder. It may require a bit of persuasion as it will likely be stuck to the base gasket. There's a tiny snap ring holding the piston wrist pin in. A small pair of snap ring pliers are handy. Take that out and holding the piston in your hand to keep the rod aligned, use a punch that fits inside the wrist pin to tap it out so it clears the connecting rod. No need to take it all the way out. Clean everything up and assemble. Be sure to route the plug wire on the coil to the muffler side before you slide the rear handle on. Don't get ham fisted with the three screws holding the carb adapter when you put it back on as you can crack it You will most likely need a new cylinder base gasket. You can either use something that's fuel resistant like Permatex Motoseal or get some 1/64" gasket material. I use Karropak 3045 sheet material. Make notes of the order you remove things so you can reverse the order. I find it handy to use little bins, containers to keep group parts and fasteners together with the parts they hold down. If I've missed anything (getting older and losing brain cells) maybe some of the guys can add stuff in. |
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Post by lesorubcheek on Feb 9, 2018 22:02:04 GMT -5
Seems that every time I fool with the air box, the manual oiler line causes trouble. Getting the threads to line up when putting it back on and getting that grommet in place where the line goes through the air box at the front never feels right. EZs are great running little saws, but call me crazy, I'd rather fool with a 150, even with it's throttle and choke linkage. Don't be discouraged, it's not that bad, but it may take a little bit getting everything lined up.
Dan
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Post by brushcutter on Feb 9, 2018 22:03:47 GMT -5
Is there a torque spec for tightening the cylinder to the crankcase?
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Post by lesorubcheek on Feb 9, 2018 22:20:56 GMT -5
You'd need a torque wrench that would fit an open ended or box end type wrench since it needs to be tightened from the sides. Don't think you'll be able to get a socket in from the top of the nut. I always do 'em by feel with whatever wrench I can find that fits.
Dan
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Post by Clasec on Feb 9, 2018 22:39:34 GMT -5
Maybe a crows foot would work. Just a thought. Or maybe a open end on the nut and a allen socket in the boxed end for the torque wrench. Might throw off the reading though.
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Post by fossil on Feb 9, 2018 22:42:30 GMT -5
Is there a torque spec for tightening the cylinder to the crankcase? 100 inch pounds |
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Post by fossil on Feb 9, 2018 22:50:39 GMT -5
Seems that every time I fool with the air box, the manual oiler line causes trouble. Getting the threads to line up when putting it back on and getting that grommet in place where the line goes through the air box at the front never feels right. EZs are great running little saws, but call me crazy, I'd rather fool with a 150, even with it's throttle and choke linkage. Don't be discouraged, it's not that bad, but it may take a little bit getting everything lined up. Dan That oil line is a pain. I found it's easiest if the threads are started before the rear handle is bolted up. Then start the bolts in the carb box and tighten those and the oil line fitting as required to minimize stress. I think I put the grommet in after the oil line is fed into the box but before it's threaded onto the the check valve / manual pump. That little carb box is what get's me. Not much room to finger tighten carb bolts. |
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Post by sweepleader on Feb 10, 2018 7:24:03 GMT -5
100 inch pounds is only 8.3 foot pounds, that means 16-17 lbs on the end of a 6 inch wrench is enough. That is pretty easy to do with a standard wrench.
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