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Post by charles on Dec 12, 2017 15:37:57 GMT -5
I was inspired by Fossil's post on using an aftermarket Husky coil in place of a Prestolite Blue coil . I have a SXLAO parts saw and said "why not try"  I ordered from Amazon a Anzag Ignition Coil for Husky 266 , 268 272 and other models ( $14.98 delivered ) . Upon arrival , the mounting holes are spaced the same but not a direct bolt up . Also the armature has about 0.100 " narrower spread than the Blue coil , which would affect the ignition timing . Rats , plan B : measuring the armature where it passes thru the coil is almost dead on . By carefully lifting the silver locking tab on the Blue coil , I was able to push the Blue coil off the armature . Be sure to save this locking tab , as you will be reusing it . The coil on the Husky module is a press fit on the armature with no locking tab . The silver tab on the Husky is the ground . I just inserted the Blue coil locking tab in the Husky coil and pushed them on the Prestolite armature and pushed the tab down . Installed this on the engine long block , spun it up with my cordless drill and it sparked away !!! Have not tried this on a working saw but should work fine . Even if your saw doesn't use this exact coil , one might still be able adapt a new coil to your original armature which takes care of mounting problems . |
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Post by sweepleader on Dec 12, 2017 15:40:38 GMT -5
Very nice, that is doing it right.
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Post by charles on Dec 12, 2017 15:43:36 GMT -5
Sorry , forgot to say to carefully press off the Husky coil from the Husky armature being sure to avoid the stop wire tab .
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Post by jerseyhighlander on Dec 12, 2017 16:25:39 GMT -5
I'm starting to wish I had a dead coil to dissect. I spent a part of my childhood running a machine to wind new copper coils for electric motors my father rebuilt as a side business. If it's the copper coil itself that is shorted out, it's just a bunch of copper wire wound around the armature, probably tied together with a string and soaked with urethane to bind it all together and prevent the loops rubbing together through the coating. Something this small could easily be wound by hand while sitting on the couch watching the boob-tube. Just count the number of winds the old one has and put the same back on with copper wire of the same gauge.
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Post by jerseyhighlander on Dec 12, 2017 16:26:44 GMT -5
I was inspired by Fossil's post on using an aftermarket Husky coil in place of a Prestolite Blue coil . I have a SXLAO parts saw and said "why not try" I ordered from Amazon a Anzag Ignition Coil for Husky 266 , 268 272 and other models ( $14.98 delivered ) . Upon arrival , the mounting holes are spaced the same but not a direct bolt up . Also the armature has about 0.100 " narrower spread than the Blue coil , which would affect the ignition timing . Rats , plan B : measuring the armature where it passes thru the coil is almost dead on . By carefully lifting the silver locking tab on the Blue coil , I was able to push the Blue coil off the armature . Be sure to save this locking tab , as you will be reusing it . The coil on the Husky module is a press fit on the armature with no locking tab . The silver tab on the Husky is the ground . I just inserted the Blue coil locking tab in the Husky coil and pushed them on the Prestolite armature and pushed the tab down . Installed this on the engine long block , spun it up with my cordless drill and it sparked away !!! Have not tried this on a working saw but should work fine . Even if your saw doesn't use this exact coil , one might still be able adapt a new coil to your original armature which takes care of mounting problems . I'm guessing you didn't take video of the process? Got some pictures of the guts? |
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Post by sweepleader on Dec 12, 2017 16:58:11 GMT -5
...just a bunch of copper wire wound around the armature... This would work for the points coils but these electronic jobs have other stuff inside and it would be a bit messier. |
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Post by charles on Nov 21, 2019 17:38:48 GMT -5
Finally , I have an update to my post . I purchased a nonrunning 1983 AXL AO . It had spark , but would not run properly . Took off the
starter housing and saw a Wilco/Prestolite flywheel with a black Phelon coil ! Time to try the Husky module described above , and the saw ran
perfect . Plenty of power and no hard starting or kick-back from any timing issues .
Charles
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Post by jselden78 on Nov 22, 2019 8:54:38 GMT -5
Out of all my super XLs (somewhere around 15) I have one that has the blue module. I think I will stock the husky module you are talking about because most assuredly the blue one will fail at some point
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Post by Supercharged86 on Feb 18, 2020 15:03:26 GMT -5
Finally , I have an update to my post . I purchased a nonrunning 1983 AXL AO . It had spark , but would not run properly . Took off the starter housing and saw a Wilco/Prestolite flywheel with a black Phelon coil ! Time to try the Husky module described above , and the saw ran perfect . Pl enty of power and no hard starting or kick-back from any timing issues . Charles Hi Charles, Just wondering if there's any further updates to this experiment? I want to try it on a electronic SEZ. However, the product reviews for most of these cheaper Chinese made coils are less than desirable. Seems they have longevity issues. So I was wondering if you had much time on the one you tried? Thanks. Steve |
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Post by charles on Feb 18, 2020 15:55:35 GMT -5
Steve , I have about 5 tanks of fuel through the '83 SXL AO with no problems yet . The Chinese modules are so cheap ( $10 to $15 on E-bay or Amazon ) longevity
is almost a non-issue unless its your primary saw . I keep a spare Chinese module on the shelf just in case . If one had a donner blue module armature , you could change the Husky
armature out and have a quick replacement . I have only used these with the Wilco/Prestolite flywheels and don't know if the Phelon flywheels will work . I know the OEM
parts will not interchange .
Hope this helps Charles
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Post by Supercharged86 on Feb 19, 2020 17:56:05 GMT -5
Steve , I have about 5 tanks of fuel through the '83 SXL AO with no problems yet . The Chinese modules are so cheap ( $10 to $15 on E-bay or Amazon ) longevity is almost a non-issue unless its your primary saw . I keep a spare Chinese module on the shelf just in case . If one had a donner blue module armature , you could change the Husky armature out and have a quick replacement . I have only used these with the Wilco/Prestolite flywheels and don't know if the Phelon flywheels will work . I know the OEM parts will not interchange . Hope this helps Charles Charles, Thanks very much for the update. There certainly is ton of them on eBay; I've noticed there is a few different designs (mostly the ground strap) based on the photos available but more than likely are all made by the same Chickitty China company, who markets them under a variety of names. I'll give the one you made mention to above a try, by Anzac, and hopefully it will last more than 5 minutes. Thanks. Steve |
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Post by charles on Apr 15, 2020 12:20:08 GMT -5
Update on my post of Feb. 18 , 2020 . I was doing some cleaning of the 1983 SXL AO that I used hard the week before and removed the starter housing to blow the saw out and saw where the coil wire was showing some heat and/or vibration wear . I ended up putting two layers of heat-shrink tubing and a final layer of "snake skin" wire loom where the coil wire hits the cylinder head fins . This should fix it , but I will keep an eye on it . Other than that , the Chinese Husky module is working fine .  Attachments:
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Post by sweepleader on Apr 16, 2020 8:43:44 GMT -5
Well, that is just about, "What the heck is wrong now" time. Nice save! There should be a clip inside the handle on the muffler side to keep the wire away from the cylinder. Is the clip gone from that saw?  |
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Post by charles on Apr 16, 2020 11:03:45 GMT -5
The saw is the newer style with the plastic spark cover and the tab was too large for the Chinese Husky's plug wire . The Husky plug
wire is smaller than the original Homelite plug wire . It measures at 5 mm vs 7mm for the OEM wire .
C T H
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I ordered 
