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Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2017 13:05:51 GMT -5
I have been working on my carb for the C-72 on my second kit and lost count of the number of removals and installs. Anyway on Tillotson's website for the HL series carbs, there is an idle adjustment screw on each side, one called idle adjustment and one called main adjustment. On the 141D carb that I have there are two adjustment screws on one side one obviously is H and the other is L. nothing on the otherside. Now which one is which. I am assuming the main adjustment screw would be the H and the idle adjustment would be L? If I am wrong please correct me lol.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2017 13:50:12 GMT -5
well I think that would be correct. Tillotson has another link on their site that is for vintage carbs and has a service manual there for the HL that shows the high and low idle screws...still flooding though  |
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Post by undee70ss on Dec 9, 2017 14:51:08 GMT -5
Can you pressure test the carb?
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Post by undee70ss on Dec 9, 2017 15:01:51 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2017 15:13:56 GMT -5
I have a vacuum tester, will that do it
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Post by jerseyhighlander on Dec 9, 2017 15:14:10 GMT -5
I think you're right about the screws/adjustment but they aren't likely the source of the flooding.
Flooding may be from a need to adjust/bend the lever that lifts the needle valve when pressed down by the metering diaphragm. Make sure the spring is under that lever the right way too, not popped out to the side. Also, just double check the gaskets are in the right orientation.
If you can pressure test as Undee suggests, it is a useful diagnostic tool with carbs, among other things.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2017 15:54:54 GMT -5
All I have now is a vacuum tester. Where can I find a pressure tester or will the vacuum tester work? I have set reset and reset again the metering lever. With the needle seated it should be flush with the chamber floor and I have done that best I can. Thought I had it earlier with the adjusting screws it would idle good just wouldn’t run wide open. As I adjusted for that it died and started flooding again
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Post by sweepleader on Dec 9, 2017 16:43:37 GMT -5
The vacuum tester may have a pressure port, most do. It may also have a valve that switches from vac to pressure.
I just searched the web for "How do I pressure test a carburetor?" and got a bunch of videos with the procedures. Its a little complicated to describe but the videos make it more clear.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2017 19:35:09 GMT -5
Yea I’ve watched a few myself. I watched one by I think E.C. somebody anyway it’s a place in Tennessee that Tillotson actually recommends on their website to refurbish “vintage” carbs. Yes I am actually considering allowing someone else to do this part. I found that the new seat is not as long as the old but I am not sure it matters as it floods with both. I am backing up a bit though and I am going to get a compression tester tomorrow just to verify that end. I really am baffled by the lack of small engine repair in my area. If you have a new Stihl or husky they are happy to help. If not they are happy sell you one. I have seen carburetor testers or pressure testers on the internet but you go into the major part houses around and they are baffled by what it is or why you would needed. I had a guy tell me today at auto zone that carbs work off of vacuum and if I put pressure in it I am sure to destroy it.🙄
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Post by sweepleader on Dec 9, 2017 20:58:41 GMT -5
I had a guy tell me today at auto zone that carbs work off of vacuum and if I put pressure in it I am sure to destroy it.🙄 He was probably a fuel injection guy, never actually saw a carburetor. He, he. No, I think you already know you will not hurt it. My tester is old but Mityvac still makes them for about $35. www.mityvac.com/ Napa sells them for $59 part number BKN LICMV8510 There are others as well. Look for "vacuum tester". They are essential for working on the emission systems on cars now and lots of things on old cars. |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2017 21:18:47 GMT -5
I miss napa, a good friend of mine owned two one in Port Gibson where I used to live about an hour and a half from where I am now and one in Vicksburg, about an hour from here. He closed both. there was one up the road from me or was, but its closed down. There was another I knew of kinda big store about 20 minutes from here, passed it about two weeks ago...closed down. I think the napa distribution center here is still open but its kinda in I guess you would call the inner city and if you don't go mid morning mid week, you need to exercise open carry and have a friend guard your vehicle while inside. I am kinda stuck with advance, auto zone or oreillys with the exception of a few small engine shops that would rather sell a new stihl or husky or maybe some starter rope or weed eater string. Outside of that whatever you have isn't worth fixing...that is in their opinion. But I do have the internet but I kinda miss being able to walk up to a counter and talk to someone that has some inclination of what I am talking about. There is one good small engine shop here or so I have heard but its always open when I am at work and closed when I get off
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Post by jerseyhighlander on Dec 9, 2017 21:53:35 GMT -5
The mityvac MV8500 is a vacuum pump & pressure tester. You just flip a lever to change it from one to the other and there is a use for both. Good luck finding it an an Auto Zone or other corporate franchise purveyors of Chinese made garbage, staffed by double digit IQ imbeciles. I refuse to set foot in those places. Even Napa here is getting a little too corporate/investor driven but we do have a couple family owned/run places. They are readily available on ebay though.
If you're sure the metering lever & spring are right, one other place to check is the diaphragm; one that it's the correct side down and two that the metal button that engages the lever is the same length as the original.
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Post by onlyhomelites on Dec 10, 2017 8:26:03 GMT -5
John if you haven't seen this video already, it might be worth the ~6 minutes. This saw was obviously a McCulloch, but the Tillotson carb is basically the same thing you are dealing with. I fought it for a while to get it right, maybe something here will help you:
PS: One major plus to pressure testing the carb is that you can submerge it in a bucket of water and find out exactly where it is leaking at by folowing the trail of bubbles.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 10, 2017 8:46:29 GMT -5
Actually I had watched that video not realizing it was you that made it. That’s might be what’s wrong with mine
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Post by Deleted on Dec 10, 2017 8:47:18 GMT -5
What problems was that causing before you found the pump body warped
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Post by onlyhomelites on Dec 10, 2017 8:53:36 GMT -5
She was leaking a lot of fuel externally and wouldn't tune properly. Not exactly what you've described with yours, but with what you've already done, you've narrowed the field of possibilities a lot.
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