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Post by sweepleader on Jan 4, 2018 12:28:28 GMT -5
Those "Rulon" plugs were used on race cars at some time as well.
Aluminum has the property of having a fatigue life that does not depend on the loading. Any aluminum part that is cyclically loaded will fail at some point in fatigue. The wrist pins would be fitted to the rod so it needs to be replaced also, to assure the correct fit, and while you're at it, why not replace the clips I guess?
Steel rods, even powered metal ones do not have a fatigue life below a certain stress limit, they can live forever below that limit.
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Post by onlyhomelites on Jan 4, 2018 14:57:34 GMT -5
The XL-113 & XL-114 had some variations that used these plugs as well. Not common in the Homelite line though.
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Post by lesorubcheek on Jan 4, 2018 19:06:31 GMT -5
Thought there was some other saws that used those plugs, but couldn't think of 'em to save my life. Looked at the XL 113/114 IPL and there's another example of those reed mufflers too.
Dan
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Post by Deleted on Jan 4, 2018 19:10:35 GMT -5
Thought there was some other saws that used those plugs, but couldn't think of 'em to save my life. Looked at the XL 113/114 IPL and there's another example of those reed mufflers too. Dan I glad I'm not the only one that goes through 6 or 8 manuals at a time, sometimes more. After re-examining the manual, it appears the plugs were used instead of clips, but you guys already knew that
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Post by Clasec on Jan 4, 2018 20:42:25 GMT -5
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Post by sweepleader on Jan 4, 2018 20:45:12 GMT -5
I would hope that they would not design those buttons to go over a port...
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Post by Deleted on Jan 4, 2018 21:31:01 GMT -5
I would hope that they would not design those buttons to go over a port... Oh but they did, they actually are recessed like the top of the drawing shows. 20180104_202636 by Al Michaels, on Flickr
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Post by sawnami on Jan 5, 2018 7:02:55 GMT -5
Here's another view.
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Post by sweepleader on Jan 5, 2018 7:42:56 GMT -5
Well, at least there is a port divider there for the button to ride on, I guess I should have been more specific. Nice pic, both of them.
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Post by stillsawing on Jan 5, 2018 9:23:19 GMT -5
Dumb old me has a ton of questions why. Material made of, float or pressed, advantage, still being used in modern times?
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Post by sweepleader on Jan 5, 2018 10:12:23 GMT -5
I mostly rumors from old car magazines and volunteering at races. I owned a garage and worked on cars for many years.
They were made of plastic or aluminum and were pressed into car piston pins. The picture above shows loose plugs just filling the space between the pin and cylinder. The pin was full floated and these prevented snap rings from being hammered out of place. Full floated pins self align and last longer in race engines, maybe in 2 cycle, high rpm saws also. I never saw buttons in any production car engine, only race engines. Some car engines used floating pins and C clips. I have been away from that for a while so I don't have a clue if they are still used. I know that Spiroloc clips replaced C clips for retainers long ago, maybe they replace the plugs too. Pressed in pins do not need retainers, if they stay pressed.
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Post by sawnami on Jan 5, 2018 14:41:14 GMT -5
I remember an article in one of the racing magazines in the early 70's showing engine testing using button retainers. I'll never forget one photo showing the piston bores in one block with deep grooves 180 degrees apart in the bores equal to the diameter of the buttons.
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Post by Clasec on Jan 5, 2018 20:09:47 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Jan 5, 2018 21:26:09 GMT -5
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Post by Clasec on Jan 5, 2018 21:29:17 GMT -5
The ones I've seen are installed and removed by hand.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 5, 2018 23:49:43 GMT -5
The ones I've seen are installed and removed by hand. Fingernails or screw driver?
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Post by Clasec on Jan 6, 2018 0:36:40 GMT -5
Most are installed by hand when the piston is placed in the bore. No tools required.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 6, 2018 1:04:40 GMT -5
Most are installed by hand when the piston is placed in the bore. No tools required. I would think that they would be difficult to remove when they are in the bore. I'm pretty sure I know how they are installed and if I do need to install a set on my saw I would first need to remove the old ones. I was interested in how they could be removed as it didn't say in the service manual on the model 2000 section, but it would appear that may not be feasible to do since no one or no website seems to mention removal. So if time comes that I need to remove them should I replace the entire piston and rod, maybe the cylinder too?
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Post by Clasec on Jan 6, 2018 1:41:35 GMT -5
I apologize I was referring to how the buttons are used in auto engines. I don't have a 2000 piston to look at but I have a SXL925 and a XL923 and the button is held in by a circlip. Also there isn't a button on the opposite side. I believe once you pull the cylinder off you would remove the pin from the non button side. The button is used to seal the crankcase from the exhaust. I doubt if you would have to replace the button as it isn't a wear item on a saw.
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Post by onlyhomelites on Jan 6, 2018 16:43:05 GMT -5
If they don't just fall out, a small dental pick or tooth pick should get the right out. The 2000 I rebuilt for a friend had them and they were actually a PITA to keep in place while installing the cylinder.
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