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Post by undee70ss on Jul 9, 2017 22:41:14 GMT -5
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Post by sweepleader on Jul 10, 2017 10:51:25 GMT -5
Gee, it would have been nice if they had included a few more dimensions on those drawings. And what are the "bent" plate and square drawings in the lower right for?
I think I need to spend more time reading the manuals to get familiar with some of the stuff they have in there. I have looked up specific items but obviously have not looked at enough.
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Post by undee70ss on Jul 10, 2017 11:52:34 GMT -5
That's for the exhaust on the little saws ( XL XL2 Super 2 etc). Those only have one screw holding the muffler on.
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Post by sweepleader on Jul 10, 2017 12:32:09 GMT -5
OK, should have looked closer at the chart, it says "C with Bracket". The bottom pics are two views of the "Bracket".
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Post by undee70ss on Jul 10, 2017 22:22:00 GMT -5
Gee, it would have been nice if they had included a few more dimensions on those drawings. . I believe you just print the page then transfer to metal. Personally I would use a old carb and muffler and transfer punches for the holes |
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Post by onlyhomelites on Jul 11, 2017 18:29:55 GMT -5
I'm guessing that Homelite figured that the drawing would be transferred to metal, using appropriate technology of the time. I can remember plenty of woodworking projects when I was a kid that involved tracing paper and carbon transfer paper. I plan to make some of these in my spare time (2027?)...diagnosing bad seals would be a helluva lot easier and quicker. I honestly had never paid attention to the various port sizes to realize that the vast majority of saws can be handled with so few plates!
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Post by undee70ss on Jul 11, 2017 19:22:40 GMT -5
I never realized that so few plates would cover so many saws either. My biggest problem right now is finding a seal, 12306. Guess there as rare as hens teeth.
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Post by sawnami on Jul 12, 2017 6:36:59 GMT -5
I'm lazy. I take off the carb and muffler and stick a patch of Gorilla Grip duct tape over the port, poke holes for the bolts/studs, bolt them back on and pressure/vacuum test.
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Post by sweepleader on Jul 12, 2017 7:24:34 GMT -5
That is a great way to do it, much simpler!
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Post by breese on Jul 12, 2017 8:27:08 GMT -5
I'm lazy. I take off the carb and muffler and stick a patch of Gorilla Grip duct tape over the port, poke holes for the bolts/studs, bolt them back on and pressure/vacuum test. An easier and cheaper way is to use gasket material (from an auto supply store) and do the same thing. No mess from the Gorilla Grip Comes in sheets that can make a lot of gaskets Leaves enough on-hand to make a replacement gasket if you do not have a spare.....
Tip: Once you bolt the carb back in place, draw out the outer edge. When you remove the carb, cut out the gasket, and now you have a new one.
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Post by undee70ss on Jul 12, 2017 11:22:16 GMT -5
An easier and cheaper way is to use gasket material (from an auto supply store) and do the same thing. This is what I have done in the past, and for doing it every once in a while has been fine, other than I had to make one every time. The plates are more for someone who works on saws for a living. |
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Post by sawnami on Jul 12, 2017 13:52:10 GMT -5
I'm lazy. I take off the carb and muffler and stick a patch of Gorilla Grip duct tape over the port, poke holes for the bolts/studs, bolt them back on and pressure/vacuum test. An easier and cheaper way is to use gasket material (from an auto supply store) and do the same thing. No mess from the Gorilla Grip Comes in sheets that can make a lot of gaskets Leaves enough on-hand to make a replacement gasket if you do not have a spare.....
Tip: Once you bolt the carb back in place, draw out the outer edge. When you remove the carb, cut out the gasket, and now you have a new one.
Mess ? ? ? ? It's duct tape that's thicker with a stronger adhesive. No residue is left when you pull it off. |
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