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Post by onlyhomelites on Nov 14, 2017 10:08:01 GMT -5
Not 100% exact, but 99%. I tore it down again yesterday and the needle & seat are definitely leaking. The rubber seat is loose in the brass housing and somewhat stiff. I also think there's a copper washer under the seat housing that looks like shat, but I'm not going to pry it out until I have a replacement on hand. I've contacted Joyce about buying some parts...I know I'm close on this one!
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Post by 530Nutcase on Dec 9, 2017 5:29:42 GMT -5
I'm trying manufacture a cable end like ball that's supposed to be there with a simple barrel and retaining screw. My 5-30N is mostly complete except for the recoil cable and the cylinder shroud.
Is the 5-30n as loud as my XL-101???
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Post by jerseyhighlander on Dec 9, 2017 16:35:39 GMT -5
>>> I have found a few by searching old parts warehouses inventory on the dark web using excel codes and part numbers, such as cell spacing + part number. Often the pdf of a small business comes up if they have the part in inventory, but it wont come up on a regular web search because most businesses don't use searchable databases. Would love for you to elaborate on this process... Maybe start another thread so we don't drift Leon's into another realm.
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Post by jerseyhighlander on Dec 9, 2017 16:46:26 GMT -5
Rubber seats... not an enviable thing. If you could pop them out, maybe with compressed air, sometimes you can rejuvenate them with a soak in some silicone grease or Red Rubber Grease. If they aren't too far gone, they may swell back to original size.
This thread is bitter-sweet to follow for me. I had found a 5-30N on craigslist, in what looked like pretty good shape for $50.- sitting in a barn in my second home, Vermont. It came up when our annual Thanksgiving trip was still over a month away and I was sure it would be grabbed up pretty fast, but it was still there, and still there and a week before, was still there. Leaving to drive up, it was still there and I was trying to figure out how to tell my wife we were going to spend a half a day driving to an area with little other interest, to get a 60 year old chainsaw. The night before, I checked the CL add and it was deleted. So close and POOF.
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Post by sweepleader on Dec 9, 2017 17:02:33 GMT -5
I'm trying manufacture a cable end like ball that's supposed to be there with a simple barrel and retaining screw... The fittings I have seen like this use a ball that is cast around the end of the cable, the wires are spread a short distance (something less than the diameter of the ball) to give more purchase to the joint. Tough to do in the field without molding equipment. I have had a little success with this kind of repair and feel confident it can be done however. Usually the retaining screw is the weak point. IF you can put in a big enough screw and still have good grip on the cable things will be OK. IF you cannot, it will come apart on the first pull. Not happy. Most setups I have seen can use a cylindrical "ball" with the screw in the end of the cylinder and the cable through the side. Not easy to do but possible. Another way is to drill the cylinder for the cable, countersink the off side of that hole. Then put the cable through the hole and flair the wires a little. Now the cable gets welded to fill the countersink. TIG welding would be recommended. I have successfully swaged a threaded end fitting to 1/16" cable too, using a crimping tool meant for electrical terminals but I don't think that applies to a ball end situation. Maybe someone else is familiar with a standard part that has worked for this in the past.
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Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2017 20:37:29 GMT -5
>>> I have found a few by searching old parts warehouses inventory on the dark web using excel codes and part numbers, such as cell spacing + part number. Often the pdf of a small business comes up if they have the part in inventory, but it wont come up on a regular web search because most businesses don't use searchable databases. Would love for you to elaborate on this process... Maybe start another thread so we don't drift Leon's into another realm. will move to off topic
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Post by sawnami on Dec 12, 2017 1:12:32 GMT -5
Leon, I found the Tillotson manual finally if you still need information.
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Post by onlyhomelites on Dec 12, 2017 7:36:53 GMT -5
That is the one! I am still fighting it (when I feel like it), so if you'd be willing to scan a copy of that, it would be much appreciated!
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Post by sawnami on Dec 12, 2017 12:32:33 GMT -5
That is the one! I am still fighting it (when I feel like it), so if you'd be willing to scan a copy of that, it would be much appreciated! Will do.
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Post by onlyhomelites on Apr 6, 2020 6:32:25 GMT -5
I can't believe I've been working on this saw for almost 3 years now! But I finally took the final plunge this weekend and got the old girl running. The carb was interesting to say the least...once I got the inlet lever set properly, she fired right up. It took a bit to blow the old crap out (and the rest of the muffler packing!), but it actually idles pretty good. Today I installed the new muffler packing & retainer, replaced that janky spark plug lead, installed the drive belt cover, installed the spark plug cover and filed out the slots on the Mall 2MG bar to fit the 3/8" studs. My arm is still sore from the 45 minutes of hand filing! Homelite 5-30N (e)Homelite 5-30N (f)
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Post by xl130 on Apr 6, 2020 9:11:00 GMT -5
She’s a beast! The guys that would have worked all day with something like that must have been beasts as well!
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Post by rowdy235 on Apr 6, 2020 9:50:03 GMT -5
Very nice! Sounds like a beast too!
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Post by ronaldt on Apr 6, 2020 12:40:16 GMT -5
That saw definitely wins the cool factor award! It's amazing how much saws changed in the 10 years that followed when that was produced.
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