Updating XL500 With Later Factory Parts

[sweepleader]

This is a project that I have been wanting to do for several years, ever since I heard that XL-500's had "crank issues". No specifics, just "crank issues".

Here's the plan, get later, factory replacement crank and rod with 31 rollers to replace original 29 roller rod. Replace drive case with later unit holding 3/8" bar studs.

The start of the work is in the thread below:

houseofhomelite.proboards.com/thread/5325/bad-screws-sxl-drive-case?page=1&scrollTo=28930

I got an XL-400 crank, (which MAY be the same as the factory replacement part, 63473, listed in Dealer Service Memo #306, 3/31/66. Also with the crank I got an XL-400 crankcase, which MAY be the same as the replacement part, A059801-C, list in the same memo.

Today I got on with tear down of the XL-500 to see what I had and if any of this was going to fit together.

First thing I did was find out why the XL-500 did not want to run lately. It had quit last spring after running hard for several hours, I fiddled with it but never found the problem. It seemed to me to be a heat related ignition problem but replacing all the ignition system twice did not help.

Maybe this is a clue:


Not related to the crankshaft but needs fixing.

So, I got it all apart and the cylinder fits in the crankcase, first hurdle crossed:



The XL-500 cylinder is installed in the XL-400 crankcase at the top. The bottom case is the XL-500, notice that it does not have dowel pins in it, neither does the drive SXL drive case with the 3/8" bar studs that I was planning on using have holes for the dowels. Might have to pull the dowels out of the case to fit things together. The SXL drive case appears to fit otherwise.

Then the crankshaft comes next:



Everything looks OK by eye and what I can measure with a caliper except the shoulder on the 500 crank next to the cheek of the throw. I thought it was a washer at first but it is part of the casting. Might indicate that the bearing on that end is different, I have not checked the parts I have. Might mean there needs to be a washer there, it is about 1/8" thick.

The cylinder and piston look near perfect:





A couple questions come to mind, anyone know of a drive case that would have the 3/8" studs and dowel pin holes?
How about that crank shaft "washer"/bearing issue? (Looking at the picture with both crankcases in it, there might not be an issue. The older case has a relief for the "washer" which is missing from the 400 case, maybe there is no problem here. I will have to trial fit the crank and see what's up. Would still like to hear anything anyone has to say about this project.)

I will update this as the project proceeds.

[Clasec]

I have a couple of drive cases from XL400's. I'll look to see if they have the dowel pin holes. Charles.

[undee70ss]

Jan 22, 2017 20:09:37 GMT -5 sweepleader said:

Maybe this is a clue:




Im sure that leaking reed wasn't helping the cause...................

[onlyhomelites]

Hi Dan,

I'm at work, so I don't have access to my photo files, but I have an XL-400 drivecase also: www.leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com/store/p5661/USED_Homelite_XL-400_Automatic_Chainsaw_Drive_Case_A-59930-D_U2000.html

I'm glad things are going together well...it's exciting! PM me if you'd like the drivecase.

Leon

[sweepleader]

Well, an update is in order:

The XL-400 drive case does fit with dowel holes and all so I stopped at a local bearing house and bought a crankshaft big bearing off the shelf. The number, 6203-N, was on the crank bearing I took out of the XL-500. So, if you need a big crank bearing for an XL-12 size saw, they cost less than $11 and are in stock. I had to buy a sealed bearing and remove the seals so the oil in the fuel could get in. You can see in the photo that I got some Torx bearing retaining screws to fit later SXLs and they are easy to get much tighter as well as not having a screwdriver slot right across the head to break.

Of course the bearing needed to be installed on the crank and it is a press fit. No press and no press tools, no worries, a $10 Craigslist toaster oven. Every shop should have one. About 30 minutes at 250 degrees F and the bearing dropped right on, no fuss, no muss.



This is the XL-400 crank installed.



Installing the drive case was a snap but the oil pump from the XL-500 did not fit. Or rather the screws did not fit, the first one I tried to tighten pulled loose. Checking the holes showed that the case was tapped for bigger screws. I dug out the pump from the SXL and sure enough, the holes in it were bigger to. Using the SXL screws, the pump dropped right in.



Now comes the clutch and my next update. A rim sprocket with 8 teeth instead of the spur with 7. Should make a big difference in chain speed and cutting.  The XL-500 engine should have plenty of power to pull it.  If I don't like it, not too tough to change it back.  I bought this rim on line and it was not clear what brand it was, thankfully it will be covered up.

 

Next will be the ignition, update to electronic.  The fit of the flywheel is suspect so that will be the next thing to check, hopefully tomorrow.

[sweepleader]

This is the final chapter as they say, the XL-500 is back together. The solid state ignition is in, the flywheel fits fine, the broken reed is replaced. The XL-400 crank with new big bearing, crankcase, drive case, and oil pump are all installed. The oil pump works, the carb adjusts and the saw runs like gangbusters again. Yes, the only thing I really needed to change was the broken reed but now the saw has the bigger stuff that the factory thought all the later saws should have, even though none made as much power as the XL-500.

I shot a short video of the saw but it won't upload, oh well, here are a couple of pictures:

They won't upload, I will try later.

I want to particularly thank chainsawlady and onlyhomelites for their help providing parts and encouragement for this project. Both Joyce and Leon have proven to be good friends and very worthy Homelite people.

Now no more excuses, I gotta just get on the painting...

[onlyhomelites]

Dan, that is awesome! I'm really glad to hear that everything went together properly. If you want, you can send the video to [e-mail] and I can try posting it for you. Congrat's on a successful project!

[sweepleader]

Well, I am thinking about painting again and I realized that my original plan to put an original wick fuel tank on is sort of going the wrong way as far as updating. I also could not use Red Kote or whatever in a wick tank as the wick would have to be installed, then the tank assembled, then sealed. Arrrgggh. That thought lead me to remember that I have a later tank that still has the old knob style fuel cap but uses a swinging pickup, problem solved I guess. I will use as big a fuel line as will fit along with a big filter and we should be good to go.

There would be a lot more air in the line that would have to be sucked out during starting.

Here's the question: Anyone know if the carb will prime OK with a big fuel line?

[onlyhomelites]

I've had good luck with PermaTex hard setting gasket material for sealing fuel tanks. It's actually what I used on the XL-500 I'm painting now. I used the wick setup and just put a decent layer on one side of the tank, put it all together and trimmed the "smush out" with a razor blade a few days later. I've used this stuff on quite a few tanks and they haven't leaked.

If you do go with the later style, hose with ~ 5/32 ID will work fine. It's a bit hard to get on the carburetor barb at first, but you won't have any trouble with fuel pickup. The only thing you may have to do is slightly enlarge the hole in tank to accommodate the thicker hose. A fresh grommet will stretch to fit...I tend to upsize them about 1/16" when I need to use the bigger hose.