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Post by indianajohn on Dec 17, 2015 23:38:57 GMT -5
I have a second XL2 that I am playing around with that has no spark. I was wondering if anyone might know what the resistance readings across both the primary and secondary sides of the coil should be. Someone has replaced the points set in the past, and it still has no spark, so I'm suspecting the coil may be bad. With the coil lead disconnected from the points, I can make and break continuity across the points while rotating the engine over. So, I'm assuming the points and condensor are good. That only leaves the coil. But before I buy a new coil, I'd like to be sure. I really don't like to throw parts at a problem.
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Post by Supercharged86 on Dec 18, 2015 9:45:18 GMT -5
Hi John, I can't say for certain if a XL2 coil is the exact same as a Super EZ, but let's assume for a moment that it's close. Resistance on the Primary side is between .5-1 ohm and is 5000-6000 ohms on the Secondary. Likewise, I'm sure you've checked the kill switch for proper function (or removed completely from the circuit). Are you sure the condenser is good, checked it with your ohm meter (that's if you don't have a condenser checker)? Also double check that the high tension lead is screwed all the way into the coil (if they're the removable type). Steve
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Post by indianajohn on Dec 19, 2015 21:42:35 GMT -5
Thanks for the info, Steve! I didn't get any time Friday to play with the XL2. Customer stuff has to take priority over my own projects of course, but maybe next Thursday. Since it is Christmas Eve, I doubt things will be busy. I did have the kill switch disconnected. Don't have a condensor tester, but I will check that with my meter. I assumed that it was good, as the points/condensor assembly had been replaced. But I guess even new parts can be bad. Wouldn't be the first time.
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Post by indianajohn on Jan 22, 2016 15:19:29 GMT -5
Finally got time to do a bit more investigation on this. I tested across the condenser with my meter. I am not getting ANY resistance reading at all in any range on my meter. If these work the same as a traditional electronic capacitor, I should be seeing some sort of resistance, but I'm not. Maybe a bad condenser.....
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Post by sweepleader on Jan 22, 2016 16:01:13 GMT -5
Sounds to me like the condenser is open, that is bad. I check with an ohm meter, connect the leads and watch the meter. It should show low resistance at first and climb for a second or two to a high reading. This will not tell you a unit is good, but it will tell you if it is bad. If it passes this test it should be checked for leakage at high voltage, something like 500 volts. Leakage when it is charged should be very low, I don't have a tester that will put out 500 volts so I cannot say for sure just what the number should be. I would not be happy if it was as high as 10 milliamps but that would be a guess on my part.
The size of the condenser is related to the coil, they need to be matched for peak performance, that is, best spark. NOS condensers are not guaranteed to be good. A new condenser from a similar ignition might work.
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Post by Supercharged86 on Jan 24, 2016 22:21:59 GMT -5
Finally got time to do a bit more investigation on this. I tested across the condenser with my meter. I am not getting ANY resistance reading at all in any range on my meter. If these work the same as a traditional electronic capacitor, I should be seeing some sort of resistance, but I'm not. Maybe a bad condenser..... Hi John, Are you using a analog or digital meter? In or out of the saw? I've been recently working on a '74 XL2 with points/condenser and the results for the coil were about the same as my findings with the Super EZ. Resistance on the primary side was .6 Ohms and 7750 ohms on the secondary side. Luckily for me my Dad has a nice vintage Heathkit condenser checker that makes testing those a snap. He will test them out to the required .2 micro-farads and 400-500 volts.  |
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dynodave
Saw Builder
equal opportunity GEARHEAD
Posts: 246
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Post by dynodave on Jan 30, 2016 19:22:39 GMT -5
Steve
nice cap checker. I made my own. 0-1000V and 3 current scales down to micro amps. One thing extra to be aware of. Is to examine the points cam on the crankshaft for wear. On one of my homelites with points, the cam lobe leading edge was well worn and that significantly retarded the spark timing and if the points opening is late then the magnetic energy is past peak. Makes it tough to start and it may be down on power.
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