SXL/SXL-AO

[angel]

Does anybody know the difference between a SXL and a SXL-AO? I found what looks like a SXL on Cragslist, but I cant tell from the pic so I emailed the guy and he doesn't know. The serail/assembly numbers are the same according to Mr. Acres site, but it also says the SXL was 57.4 cc's and the SXL-AO is 58.2. I guess how would you tell?

[mikevan]

The little that I know - The AO is automatic oiler - Most all it's parts interchange with the XL 400

[angel]

Hmm, Mr. Acres site says both the SXL and SXL-AO have automatic oilers with a manual override.

[MCS]

The Super XL Automatic of the 1970's was shipped from the factory without a manual oiler pump but it could be added by the dealer. This is supported by IPL 24228 Rev. 1 which shows the part number for the plug that is installed in the oil pump cylinder and has the manual kit listed in the back. In IPL 24228 Rev. 4 it shows the pump as a standard part. The manual oil pump kit is listed in the accessories section in the back and says it applies to serial number 50440501 and older so this gives the cut over serial when the manual pump became a standard feature of the Super XL. As far as engine size I really doubt that it changed. The two IPLs I have show different part numbers for the cylinder and piston but that may just be a change in part number. The revision 4 IPL makes no mention of a different part used for earlier or later cylinders and pistons.

[angel]

Thanks for the explanation a7e, I am looking at a SXL that a guy wants $25 for, he says it ran but he let it sit and now it won't start, its a bit beat up but looks like a fun project.

[angel]

So I picked up an SXL-AO at a flea market today for only $10, only problem is it seems to be locked up tight as a drum, I pulled on the cord pretty hard and it won't budge. I am hoping it's a recoil/clutch issue and it isn't a bad cylinder, I will check it out more tomorrow.

[MCS]

If you got a decent bar and chain your off to a good start. It doesn't take much of a bind to prevent turning the engine with the rope. I've taken some apart and buffed up the scuffed piston skirt and cleaned the ring groove with a small file where the aluminum is folded down. The cylinder usually survives longer without oil than the piston. Since the rod and crank have bearings, they survive too. Let us know what you find. I've also found screw that have fallen out and jammed the crank too.

[chainsawwhisperer]

I have an SLX-AO with no manual oiler, and a SXL with an oil pump and a Manuel oiler. It was probably more of a marketing ploy, than a major innovation. Make it sound like a new feature, and delete the maul oiler, saving Homelite a few dollars on each saw. Just my take.
As far as the displacement, I think that SXL's were 58cc.
The XL-12's were 54cc.
CSW

[angel]

Well I went out and messed with it, pulled the clutch cover off and put a socket on the clutch nut, and got it broke free! It turned over a bit hard by the rope, so I pulled the plug and poured some 2 stroke oil down the hole and pulled it over about 20x and it loosened right up. So then I thought try some mixed gas down the carb, and what do ya know, it fired up! It belched some smoke something fierce before it puttered out. So then I thought try and get it to run off tank gas, to I filled up the tank and pulled it over a few times and it fired up! I actually had to use the kill switch to shut it down! I think it seized up from just sitting a long time, otherwise it wouldn't have freed up like that. Any harm in running 50:1 with Stihl HP Ultra oil?

[MCS]

The oil mix ratio comes up often. Here is my $.02 worth on the subject. Years ago, like the 60's the standard mix for 2 cycle was 16 to 1 of 30 weight non-detergent oil. That's a cup of juice in each gallon of gas. 2 cycle oil is now specially formulated for the application and has additives that improve lubrication burn cleaner and it costs a lot more the 30 weight. I've run 50 to 1 of good 2 cycle in just about everything that still requires mixing. I buy oil that is rated for 100 to 1 and use it at 50 to 1. Keep in mind that running a saw lean on gas (carb. adjustment) also means it lean on oil.

[lesorubcheek]

Sept 8, 2008 8:26:26 GMT -5 MCS said:

The oil mix ratio comes up often. Here is my $.02 worth on the subject. Years ago, like the 60's the standard mix for 2 cycle was 16 to 1 of 30 weight non-detergent oil. That's a cup of juice in each gallon of gas. 2 cycle oil is now specially formulated for the application and has additives that improve lubrication burn cleaner and it costs a lot more the 30 weight. I've run 50 to 1 of good 2 cycle in just about everything that still requires mixing. I buy oil that is rated for 100 to 1 and use it at 50 to 1. Keep in mind that running a saw lean on gas (carb. adjustment) also means it lean on oil.

I agree. Lots of debate on this topic, but I think the mix ratios you see printed on the older equipment that say 16:1 or 32:1 were due to the technology of the oil at the time and nothing inherent with the saw that "requires" it to be so. Personally, I usually get a 50:1 synthetic and mix at about 40:1. Use this in all my saws, trimmers, blowers, whatever.

Dan

[chainsawwhisperer]

'AS' this going to turn into another 'oil thread'? LOL
CSW

[angel]

Operation Report.

I put the old dog to some wood a little while ago, and all I can say is wow! I had some big gnarly maple crotches laying out back that needed ripping into something splittable, so I rolled one over and started cutting with the grain, holy cow did that thing make some shoe laces! I had a nice sharp chain that was in good shape and that thing just ripped through the wood. Even with a 20" bar I could not lean on it hard enough to slow it down.

And now the problems. First off, the chain got loose really quick, probably just hadn't been run and oiled in awhile. Secondly, the saw seems to take awhile to get up to higher RPM's when I hit the gas, not like a hesitation or wanting to die, it just takes its time getting up there, and the same thing on the way back down. Probably just an adjustment or something, I am sure the carb could stand a rebuild.

Now the cool part. It starts awesome, I can't beleive how easily it starts. Also, the oiler works great, puts plenty of oil down. And it's LOUD! That saw has such a cool sound, way better sounding than the WildThings that have infested my neighborhood. It's loud to the point where I don't wanna run it in town for more than a few min. here and there, even on a weekday.

[MCS]

So, are you saying it is the Harley Davidson of the chainsaws?

[MCS]

I'm sorry I made a mistake in my previous posting. You can't get a Harley started and all they do is leak oil so there can't be any relationship between them and a Homelite.

[chainsawwhisperer]

Man, Knucklepanshovel is gonna be all over your case! LOL

[quiverpup]

angel,run it ! ditto on the exhaust note. i love it too.sounds like a dirt bike-Braaaaap! was at friends before work blocking up logs,him a 390 stihl and me using my 120 dolmar.ran dolmar outa gas so decided to use sxl for a tank. the neighbor came over and said he knew sound.had not heard it in long time but knew it was old homey. got him to try it for a few rounds(tom sawyer and the fence?) i run em at 32:1 with good tcw-3 oil.figure they lasted this long,keep feeding them it. keeps skeeters down to! i also put about a tablespoon of klotz BeNol to a gallon.makes it smell pretty and you can tell people it a "secret high hp mix"! i would run it all day and heck with the wildthing sissies.how can you run a saw that looks like that? i would rather chew logs to length. my sxl is a little slow on throttle also but it may just be how they are.the guys that have run em for years will have to weigh in on that.im fairly new to these saws but once had a 70's jonsared 70e that was like that.as a side note, i ran 50:1 in that and leaned it up a "touch" so she screamed.blew it up of course!

[knucklepanshovel]

Sept 10, 2008 21:10:12 GMT -5 MCS said:

I'm sorry I made a mistake in my previous posting. You can't get a Harley started and all they do is leak oil so there can't be any relationship between them and a Homelite.

LOL I have to be odd.. I have only been stranded on jap bikes I have never been stranded or had a Harley not crank or leave me sitting. break down yes but fixed on side of road & continue on for rest of trip. been stranded more than 6 times on jap bikes I used to ride jap & Harley, I gave up on jap bikes. I rode 1970's to 1980's jap bikes.. I have over 250,000 miles on Harleys & maybe 50,000 miles on jap / British/ German bikes

as for leaking.... well it is a falsehood..... it would be like comparing chainsaw oilers to harley chains... wait they do compare.... old bikes had an oil bleed to oil primary chain & secondary chain.. it would compare to letting chainsaw sit running & dripping oil off chain...or cutting hard & sitting it on driveway & watching oil drip that built up on clutch cover & bar.

hmm maybe your talking something made after 1964? ok then switch to a Cal-Custom inner primary & go all teflon seals. no leaks. you could not get me on any Harley built after 1985 but I wouldn't think twice about jumping on my 1942 flathead, my 1961 panhead, my 1973 shovelhead or my former 1946 knucklehead & riding across country...

oh my 1973 Harely used almost 1 quart of oil every 4,500 miles & thats when I changed it. if it leaked oil it was my transmission mainshaft seal which went out 2 times in 100,000 miles

the old panheads had a tin inner primary & engine would dribble oil on chain & when you parked bike the oil would run out hole in primary, if wasnt for the cover it would be slung all over your leg.

maybe you remember the old bikes with once through oiling where you had to wear leggins because they would sling oil all over you... hmm actually the knuckleheads everyone soo much loves was an after thought the covers were designed after bike was in production.. it originally was a leaky bike with oil running down engine from the over head valves. actually the original shovelhead engines were considered to get good oil mileage at 800 miles to a quart. from chain oiler & lack of valve guides from factory.

the other reason Harleys leak is a lack of maintenance. plus stock inner primary is nearly impossible to seal, & cork & rubber seals dont hold up well to lots of riding. the pushrod seals will tend to leak after a few push rod adjustments. only 12 seals for 4 valves. the rubber seals will harden & leak.

I can go on... but for now.. I just say some Harleys do not leak..

LOL

Later,
Randy

[MCS]

Well, maybe there are some similarities! Could we say that the old Homie and Harleys are more fun to cut with - ride with than the new Jap Homies - Jap Bikes???

[angel]

Sorry to derail the motorcycle talk.

I've given the old SXL a good workout this week, ran 3 tanks of gas through it cutting up some good sized maple logs. I can't say it cuts fast, but it never stops either and it's a blast to run. I think it's time for a new bar though, the one that I have on it is a 20" hardnose thats a bit worn and doesn't seem to want to keep a good chain tension, and I like sprocket nose bars better for general cutting.