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Post by mcycle12 on Jan 16, 2013 23:08:53 GMT -5
I replaced the intake boot and lines on my 330. A quick carb cleaning was necessary too. It runs fine but won't oil. No new diaphrams on Ebay and the pumps are over sixty dollars. I will try the diaphram fix shown in a different thread next. Another concern I have is the impulse line that goes from the crank to the pump. I couldn't find that size tubing at any local hardware or auto store. The line in there now has a spring in it, and appears to be original Homelite. What size tubing have others used and where did you get it from?
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Post by karla48 on Jan 17, 2013 10:10:59 GMT -5
mcycle12, I replaced the line from the tank to the oil pump with 1/4 OD x 1/8 ID but did not replace the pulse line since it looked in good shape and yes there is a spring inside, and difficult to get that line. I thought If I had to replace that line I would get a few pen refills with the springs, and use the springs inside a piece of tubing that fits. I also did recently see an OEM Oil pump diaphram on E-bay, and priced not too outrageous. I will check again today, and see If i can find the link for you.
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Post by mcycle12 on Jan 17, 2013 10:34:39 GMT -5
I saw the diaphram on Ebay; part#94675. The seller says the plunger is rusty and the pics confirm this. I don't know if that would be worth the trouble and cost. I'm thinking that the gasket material may be hardened also.
I did however find the pulse hose, Part 95201-08, on Ebay. The hose on mine is belled out on the ends and fits loose on the fittings. I'm hoping that the hose will help with my problem.
I appreciate your help!
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Post by mcycle12 on Jan 17, 2013 12:07:38 GMT -5
I looked at my oil pump diaphragm again. It is quite distorted, apparently from the spring pressure underneath the gasket material. I don't know if it's a candidate for rebuilding. A pic is attached. I'm still trying to understand how that oil pump works. I get it that the impulses from the piston rising and falling create fluctuating pressure in the diaphragm area. The plunger goes down into the pump and apparently there is a check valve in there that must prevent backwards pressure into the tank. So I'm assuming that the oil is drawn up from the small reservoir and into the passageways of the pump. I’m getting oil to the pump port through a new hose from the tank. I can blow air back that hose and see that it is escaping from the sintered vent near the air filter cover. From the pump I have put new tubing onto the oil port on the side of the saw. I get air pressure through it and oil seems to flow OK. The check valve in the pump seems to move up and down when pressed with the plunger. I’ve primed the entire system with oil prior to starting, and even used thinner oil in hopes of moving it along; nothing so far. The two areas I suspect at this time are the diaphragm and pulse hose. I’m open for any other suggestions. I really want to get this saw up and cutting.
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Post by tribulation138 on Jan 17, 2013 19:28:01 GMT -5
if the oil diaphragm is stiff and dry like a leaf. It will not pump the oil.
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Post by mcycle12 on Jan 30, 2013 10:05:20 GMT -5
The warm weather yesterday gave me the opportunity to put the 330 back together with the parts received; a new pulse line, diaphragm and pump gasket. I kept the lighter motor oil in the tank. It oils fine now. The previous owner must have been running the saw without the oiler, so the chain was toast. I had to touch up the bar here and there too, but all is well for a twenty dollar saw.
I like the old school power of the saw. I have a McCulloch Titan 50 as a primary firewood cutter. The 330 is comparable to it, although the McCulloch revs higher. I like the torque of the 330 (Reed valves?) that seems to let it pull through the cut easier if the revs fall. I cut nothing but oak, which can be challanging, especially when colder.
Thanks for the help!
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Post by karla48 on Jan 30, 2013 13:10:29 GMT -5
mcycle12, Congratulations on getting your 330 running and oiling. Just a thought about the oiler, I have been trying to figure out also exactly how that pump works too. I agree that the diaphram has to be flexible so the crankcase pulse line can move the diaphram, and I understand the piston moving up and down, but I am almost thinking that the oil tank does get pressurized a little along with pumping oil out the line to the bar & chain. Reason being, Is I once disconnected the tank oil line shortly after running the saw, and a lot of oil kept spewing out of the tank, like it was under pressure. Also I do know that the oil tank breather which is located in the center compartment of the air filter, on the top edge (You need to remove the air filter to see it), has both a breather screen, and check valve which allows air into the oil tank but won't allow air back out of the oil tanks. So I really believe the oil tank gets pressurized too! In fact some of the real old saws before 330's actually used a pressurized oil tank, one line from the pulse line into the oil tank, and the pressure pushed the oil out the discharge line from the tank to the bar & chain. Just some more food for thought!
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Post by mcycle12 on Mar 3, 2013 12:50:48 GMT -5
Let me start off by saying that I've never had a serious chainsaw mishap in 40 years of cutting, that includes losing a saw. But there has to be a first for everything I guess, and in the grand scheme of things it wasn't all that bad. I did however lose my now beloved 330. I was cutting a dead oak, one of hundreds on my property affected by the Oak Decline, when a combination of bad judgement regarding lean/top weight and a gust of wind conspired to make an 14" diameter oak twist on the backcut and fall towards me. The bar was pinched in the cut and I didn't waste time trying to free it prior to getting out of the way. Somehow the saw got under the tree when it came down. The result was not pretty. It reminded me of the Wizard of Oz, where the house was on the witch. Now I'm searching for another 330. I do like the saw enough that I want another. It always started (something I can't say about my McCulloch Titan 50 when warm). I had my original saw apart enough times I can do it blindfolded, so the intake boot problem really doesn't scare me. There's not much to salvage on the squashed saw other than perhaps the carb and boot.
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Post by karla48 on Mar 3, 2013 13:17:56 GMT -5
Oh My, what a story and Not so great picture. I hope you find another, they are getting more difficult to find, and it seems like most people that have them for sale, want to sell them a piece at a time. I am sure they are getting alot more dollars for them a piece at a time, then the whole saw.
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dynodave
Saw Builder
equal opportunity GEARHEAD
Posts: 246
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Post by dynodave on Mar 4, 2013 14:02:05 GMT -5
WOW Sorry about your saw but at least you didn't get hurt. I've done plenty of ebay searches and getting a complete 330 power head should not be to tough. I came back to this thread since I got my 330 running and in my test it cuts great and I thought I was home free... After making 2 buck passes through a downed big oak, I checked the bar and new chain and it was bone dry. I saw the oil tank feed line to the pump was split. Did a snip ..installed a coupler and put some tygon to the pump. Now just running the engine with the bar off and I still get no oil. 98688 tubing (oil tank to pump) after lot #C309 Mine I think is HK240?586 UT10604A Mine has an integral bulge in the line where it comes through the to of the tank wall just forward of the carb. What do you guys have?l Looks it's time for a tear down. diaphragms are listed here ?$16.60 but... +s/h and do the actually have any? www.ereplacementparts.com/diaphragm-plunger-p-1578403.html
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Post by tommyhnavix on Mar 5, 2013 10:47:05 GMT -5
WOW!! Sorry about your saw!! Glad you are a fast runner and ran the right direction and did not get injured I just aquired a very nice looking 330 saw. It has great compression and spark. I believe the intake boot is shot though. I will check it out closer and post some pictures. I would like to sell it to some one who would like to use it. It looks really nice also. Tom
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dynodave
Saw Builder
equal opportunity GEARHEAD
Posts: 246
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Post by dynodave on Mar 5, 2013 12:38:12 GMT -5
I haven't taken it apart yet, but I think my oiler pick up line is now OK with a splice. If the impulse line is off wouldn't it run real lean from the air leak. And if the output line fell off, I should have a ton of oil leaking out from the innards of the machine! I will probably look to source a diaphragm.
How do I correctly identify the pick up line since I can't tell what my batch #is or what the "other" part # might be? Is my saw 1982 week 40? SN HK240?586 UT10604A
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Post by mcycle12 on Mar 5, 2013 17:29:29 GMT -5
I fooled with everything in the oiling system on the 330, saving the diaphragm for last because I didn't have one.
I thought it was the impulse hose because it was loose: nope. I thought that replacing the lines that had turned to mush would work: nope.
I played with the system for a while; I primed everything with light weight oil, and used every other trick I could come up with. Nothing worked until I replaced that silly diaphragm. It wasn't easy to find one. My bet is that your saw will oil again when you replace it.
Have you considered trying to renew it, as suggested in another thread here?
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dynodave
Saw Builder
equal opportunity GEARHEAD
Posts: 246
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Post by dynodave on Mar 7, 2013 7:16:58 GMT -5
I went with trying to buy a diaphragm and hose first from ereplacements. So we'll see if they still have any NOS stock. If they fall through, I will try and source some material and give remanufacture a try. $17 for a part and $4 mail is better to me than 2-3 hours fooling around. I'm sure I can do it but I'd rather not if I can still buy it. I'm a bit disappointed Parkin doesn't list them, I am slowly trying to build an order of other homelite bits for some of my other older saws.
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dynodave
Saw Builder
equal opportunity GEARHEAD
Posts: 246
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Post by dynodave on Mar 8, 2013 7:14:53 GMT -5
FYI email from ereplacements .com ....1 x A94675 Diaphragm & Plunger - Discontinued I could see what it takes to make one from scratch. If I do, I could just as easy make a few dozen or more.
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Post by mcycle12 on Mar 8, 2013 12:41:51 GMT -5
I just saw an oil pump for a 330 listed on Ebay. It looks like you can get it for around ten dollars, (buy it now plus shipping). The seller is unsure of the condition because the saw didn't run due to a carb problem. **I am not the seller, nor do I know the seller.**
I'm not sure if you would be able to retire on what you make from selling the plungers if you were to make a few dozen of them, but you sure would make a few people on this board very happy.
There may be other sourses of NOS parts available on this site.
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dynodave
Saw Builder
equal opportunity GEARHEAD
Posts: 246
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Post by dynodave on Mar 8, 2013 15:09:13 GMT -5
Unless it is a know good pump I may not be any better off. My oil pump body is like new as far as I can tell.
I've found some 1/64 nitrile and 1/64 viton sheet. So I'll need to get some drill rod of the correct diameter for the plunger rod. I have a diacro punch press to make the steel disc blanks. I would have prefered to try for cloth reinforced diphragm material but it may have to do for now. ;D
Well I have a new hose coming....I hope it's the right one.
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dynodave
Saw Builder
equal opportunity GEARHEAD
Posts: 246
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Post by dynodave on Mar 12, 2013 6:29:33 GMT -5
Follow up I flushed out the thick bar oil and put some 15-50 mobile-one and it does now dribble some oil out....but man it has to really scream to get a bit of flow. Also The pump base gasket may have taken a set and there may have been a impulse leak that resealed upon retightening the screws. The little internal check valve seemed stuck. Maybe it was "glued" shut by the COLD thick bar oil, that freed up once washed and air blown out.
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Post by mcycle12 on Mar 12, 2013 9:39:55 GMT -5
I've come to the conclusion that I will use thinner oil in my 330, at least in the cold weather. Thicker oil seems to flow a lot slower in the saw. Wallyworld sells inexpensive 30 wt oil they claim is bar oil. I'll use that, at least with the current bar/chain, which has many miles on it.
Aren't there different springs available for the pump that would allow it to pump more or less, depending on the spring tension? I've never seen them for sale, but Dyno you sound like someone who would have the resourses to find something that would work in there.
The check valve seemed stuck in my saw also. A little carb cleaner sprayed in there cleaned that out quickly.
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dynodave
Saw Builder
equal opportunity GEARHEAD
Posts: 246
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Post by dynodave on Mar 15, 2013 8:02:39 GMT -5
Well got an email that the 98688 molded oiler feed line is also NLA, at least through regular channels. My 330 is in such new looking and pristine condition it's a shame the lines are not being repoped along with the diaphragms.
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