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Post by redsqwrl on May 1, 2009 13:23:30 GMT -5
Ok for the Red headed step childeren(me) and Trolls to confident to post, I found something to share. I purchased a 750 off of epay and the Description of the saw said "May need a tune up." half of the fun in these old Homelites for me is straightening them out to make them perform as they were designed to. The first time I changed a boot for the carb was after joining the House of Homelite and inquiring about parts for a 750. It goes without saying the 23year old rubber in these saws needs some attention. This is a photo of an improperly installed boot. Logic will tell you that it belongs this way. If your install looks like this it will go together and run. (I am speaking from experience) It Is Wrong.!!! The handle needs to be removed and the next item which is a plate also needs to be removed. Flip the boot over and make sure the Garder spring is nestled in its groove. (You will understand after the handle comes off) installation is the reverse. The carb should be solid on the handle assembly. RS |
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Post by lesorubcheek on May 1, 2009 13:28:52 GMT -5
LOL! a bi-directional flipped boot ;D. Yea, I doubt that'd seal well. So how'd the carb fit in with it up like that?
Dan
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Post by redsqwrl on May 1, 2009 13:39:37 GMT -5
I did this exact thing last year It actually fits well. I cut with it upside down. I did not learn about the spring untill I trolled around here and read up on someone elses post in regards to a 330. Check this out: The SPRING! and what was left of el' Frenchy's (I can't pronounce his name) repair, he stated it had a new carb boot. It does it is just upside down. and not connected to the cyl. Here is the boot Flipped over and seated with a slightly gooey spring holding it down.  the Old boot was almost liquid, (it is 52 Degrees today.) I think the HOH saved another 750 from the scrap pile. Thanks GUYS RS |
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Post by RBW on May 3, 2009 9:40:47 GMT -5
Never Ever saw that before.......
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Post by redsqwrl on May 3, 2009 20:55:13 GMT -5
I have 2 and a 1/2 750's and all three had liquid boots. I saved one in a cup as I scraped it up and out of there. It literally is rubbery liquid.
I posted this as I installed my first boot upside down ( I am not to proud to admit it) and my last saw was purchased with the boot that way also. Both of these saws ran fairly well with the boots upside down.
Looking back at my first boot change I now realize that the Old boot was likely consumed by the saw, I removed the carb and saw the throat of the transition piece then I promptly stuck the boot into the hole and felt quite confident about the position located the carb and airfilter parts and it ran.
I hope to prevent any trolls from burning up another piston.
RS
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Post by MCS on May 3, 2009 21:48:00 GMT -5
RS,
You said the saw will run with the boot upside down. Are there any symptoms that go along with a saw that has the boot upside down? My 750 needs a shot in the carb to get it started but then it seems to be OK. I haven't spent any time working on this problem but this thread was interesting to read and made be wonder if I have a bad boot. I do not know if the previous owner ever had the boot changed.
A7
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Post by redsqwrl on May 4, 2009 8:53:41 GMT -5
My fathers saw (which had most of the boot intact) had a cracked boot. His saw could not be dialed in. We would set the mixture screws Just so, with fresh gas, and a sharp chain. (the usual saw prep for the ice cutting season). When cutting with the saw it would either start hard or idle high, once in a great while it would bog. Basically the saw had no consistancy.
The junker I bought off of e-bay with the broken handle came with the carb unbolted and air cleaner pcs missing. I bought bolts and air cleaner parts put it together (with the boot upside down) and it ran OK, That saw with the boot USD cut fine but struggled to idle and like my father saw would not react properly to screw adjustments.
This Ice cutting saw From Canada stated in his add "may need a tune up, has a new carburator boot" You know the rest of this story.
If your saw does not start right up from Dry to running in 4-6 pulls I would definitly look into your boot.(and of course fuel line and impulse line) I have very limited experience with rubber boots on homelites but I have seen rock hard boots on a 360 with a crack. and liquid boots where the rubber completely gave up (see that second picture)also with crack in them.
Check it, check it, check it, this is cheap insurance.
RS
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Post by chesterwin on May 4, 2009 9:15:23 GMT -5
Guys. Just a little FYI. I've had bad experiences with Stabil "melting" fuel lines and fuel line grommets in saws, weed whackers and generators. I suspect if left in contact with the "boot" on any of these booted saws it will also do damage. This could be what caused the "liquid" boots redsqwrl mentioned. I used stabil for a few years but now I just run everything "dry" if it"s not going to be used for a while.
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Post by redsqwrl on May 4, 2009 10:34:54 GMT -5
I do the, run it dry storage method as well.
I am not a fan of stabil, Screwed up to many sno-machines...
But melting fuel lines is interesting. I am sure if the Guy in Canada that only cut ice used stabil, that saw sat 8-9 months with that crap in the fuel system.
good point RS
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Post by MCS on May 4, 2009 12:23:27 GMT -5
When oxygenated fuel hit the streets it supposedly attacked the fuel system components in cars and other gas machines. I used to hear that the neoprene used in those engines and fuel systems turned to goo. Since the 750 is a pre oxygenated era saw, this could be a contributing factor. From Wiipedia: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OxygenateMany motorists in the U.S. did not welcome oxygenated gasoline because of its reduced energy density resulting in increased fuel consumption and because of fears of damage to cars, particularly to older cars. Alcohol (particularly methanol) fuel blends were expected to cause chemical damage to fuel system materials not designed to withstand exposure to alcohols, to increase water contamination due to alcohols' co-solvent properties, and via alcohols' solvent action loosening fixed fuel system deposits thus causing free-moving particulate contamination and clogging of various components. Experience with oxygenated fuels has shown little widespread deleterious mechanical effects, but oxygenated fuels have resulted in increased fuel consumption and often higher fuel prices. Although market conditions vary widely, ethanol is generally more expensive on a volumetric basis (and unquestionably more expensive on an energy content basis) than the gasoline with which it is blended. Refining and distribution complexities associated with regionally-specific oxygenated 'boutique gas' blends also has significantly raised gasoline prices in parts of the United States, particularly in California. Air pollution benefits from oxygenated fuels have thus far been difficult to quantify and to attribute to oxygenated fuel, but undoubtedly small. |
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Post by RBW on May 4, 2009 13:53:54 GMT -5
My 750 needs a shot in the carb to get it started For whatever reason the whole x50 series saws need 10-12 pulls to fire when cold. It aint fun, but it beats usig either. . |
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Post by MCS on May 4, 2009 15:05:20 GMT -5
What the hell does that mean in English? Not sure what the confusion is but oxygenated fuel is gas with 10% ethanol added. MTBE was one additive but it has been banned in many states so the oil companies just stopped using it. |
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Post by 925fetish on Oct 3, 2009 13:29:10 GMT -5
i love homelites but i have never run into another brand that had the problems with their black rubber boots and lines that homelite does you have the boots on one hand on the other i dont know how many super 2s ive had to pull apart to replace every line on them after the customer came in complaining that the oiler quit working i replace all the lines with the grey that stuff rocks
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