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Post by beem54 on Dec 10, 2008 18:02:56 GMT -5
Thanks buddy! If anyone has a saw that needs repair and they dont feel like working on let me know. I would be willing to repair your saw for only the cost of shipping and parts as to have another specimin for a tutorial like the one above. You cant beat that with a stick!
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Post by lesorubcheek on Dec 10, 2008 22:21:04 GMT -5
CSW, pretty sure the dual port on the front was for the "Western" version. It was closed on the back and open on the front. The regular exhaust was closed on the front and had an opening on the rear inside area.
Dan
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Dec 11, 2008 7:03:29 GMT -5
Dan, To the best of my knowledge my D/P 330 spent it's time in Holland NY and the surrounding areas. It was one of 6 saws I got from a Ducati/KTM/Moto Guzzi/Jonsard dealer. 4 out of the 6 saws had an ID mark on them done with a vibrating pen. I assumed they were owned by a tree service originally. So the cover might have been bought separately, or the saw was manufactured with a West coast destination and some how got routed to NY. I guess we'll never know. CSW
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Post by lesorubcheek on Dec 11, 2008 7:59:23 GMT -5
Yep, cover can definitely be bought seperately and exchanged. I have a few of these covers laying around too and keep intending to try one out, just never seem to get around to it. The IPLS show the "W" version with a completely different exhaust. Not sure if there were different UTs for a 330W or not. Ya might try taking the muffler off and seeing if the housing has the outlet in it or if its sealed. If it has an outlet, then somebody most probaby just swapped covers. If no outlet, then the entire muffler assembly at least matches the"W" version. Somebody may have swapped the entire muffler though.
Dan
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Post by scott on Jun 30, 2009 3:19:03 GMT -5
I'm about to do the boot change on my 360. The parts are in the mail. Any tips before I start? I will let you know how it works out and how many beers and swear words. Thanks for the site and help. Scott
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Post by lesorubcheek on Jun 30, 2009 7:13:10 GMT -5
I'm about to do the boot change on my 360. The parts are in the mail. Any tips before I start? I will let you know how it works out and how many beers and swear words. Thanks for the site and help. Scott Hi Scott, and welcome! Think you'll find a 360 is a bit easier to work on than a 330. There's even a section in the owner's manual to help ya! It goes something like this.... - Take off the bar/chain and remove the handle bar. - Remove the handle bar mouniting bracket so you can get to the oil line. Some have a nipple underneath and some run a hose all the way through. - Remove the lower handle brace (1 screw in the back and 2 screws ahead of where the muffler sits. - Disconnect fuel and pulse line from carb and then remove the carb form the chamber. - There's 2 screws in the base of the air chamber that hold a plate that the boot fits into. Remove these 2 screws. - Remove the 4 bolts that attach the handle/tank assembly to the anti-vibe buffers. - Lift the rear handle up so the chamber clears and the push forward. Note the oil line and detach as necessary. - Push the boot in and pull through the plate that's sitting on top. that is if there's any of the boot left ;D. - There's a garter spring that holds the boot at the bottom on the manifold. Carefully pry it up and over the boot. - Pull off the old boot from the manifold, or as is often the case, wipe up the dissolved goop with acetone and a cloth. That's pretty much it for taking it down, and reassembly is the reverse. Just have to remember the magic words to get the garter spring back on over the boot. hmm... let me think, what were those magic words ... I bet you'll find 'em after a few extra beers. ;D. Oh yea, and while its apart, it'd probably be a good idea to change the impulse line while you're in there. You'll need to remove the metal plate that covers the manifold if you decide it needs changing. Dan
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Post by bonevoyage on Mar 4, 2010 18:12:07 GMT -5
My dear RBW -- Thanks so much for the trip through the horrors of replacing the carb boot on the 330. I'm in the midst of that now, with my grease-stained (and soon-to-be beer-stained) print-out of your guide. I don't know whether or not I'll be successful with your guide, but I do know I would have zero chance without it. Now for a couple of observations/questions please. 1. The instructions say to remove the 4 screws that hold the saw engine to the anti-vibe mounts after removing the lower case half. However, unless I'm mistaken, one of those screws, the one adjacent to the front handle mount on the bottom of the saw, must be removed before the lower case half can be separated from the top. 2. There are 2 screws that seem to hold the carb plate to the top half of the case. I didn't see anything in the instructions about the removal of those screws. This particularly came to my attention since one of those two screws doesn't want to come out. When I use a good power-driven slot-head driver to remove it, the driver exerts max torque, and then starts ratcheting. I wonder if this has been encountered by others -- who might have some suggestion for removal? This is the only screw, unbelievably I think, that I have had a problem removing. Thanks again. Bob
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Post by RBW on Mar 9, 2010 7:24:57 GMT -5
Hi Bob!
You may be right about the anti vibe bolt, its been a while since I worked on one of these so I dont remember exactly.
I
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Post by riseandrun on Mar 9, 2010 8:47:15 GMT -5
Bob, I just finished doing this repair last week and I can only remember three anti-vibration bolts..... but it has been a week. One by the blade, one to the left of the handle (chain facing away from you, and one lower left bottom, where the handle attaches at the bottom) There are different models though. Is the screw you're talking about just to the right of the oil cap? I didn't have any trouble getting the screws out that hold the plate in, but they do have to come out. Charge your battery up real good and use a new philips tip. You don't want to break that "tab". If you have the carb. out you can look down the hole and see if the boot is ripped. In my case it was, and I waited a week for a new boot to come, and you already heard about my memory . I couldn't remember where all those hoses underneath went, but could figure out with the tutorial. Also a little problem is wiggling the lower half around the fuel tank. My posts are Auction bought 330 and hole in the gas tank. HTH KW
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Post by rbednar on May 8, 2010 19:44:53 GMT -5
Great instructions! Everything was as you said! Took 2-1/2 hrs. Not much cussing. Saw runs like new!
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Post by jrstrines on May 21, 2010 17:17:12 GMT -5
Great info RBW. I wish I would have found this 3 months ago. I did a boot change (and much other work) blindly on a 330. I think it may have been more intimidating to look at than it was complicated. I think my hardest part was wiggling the fuel tank loose. Once I had it out though it all slipped right back together. I have to find a leaking bar oil hose on a SXL925 next. Are they terribly hard to pull down? I never had to take this one apart. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
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Post by spike60 on Feb 16, 2011 16:09:35 GMT -5
Just want to say that this thread has once again been a help to someone, (me), so thanks RBW. This was the first one of these I did, and being able to see those pics before I tore into it was great.
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Feb 16, 2011 18:37:23 GMT -5
I agree Bob, This thread was a huge help when I did my first boot job. SO...we going to have a 330 showdown at Walt's this spring? lol Jim
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Post by spike60 on Mar 5, 2011 9:04:11 GMT -5
I agree Bob, This thread was a huge help when I did my first boot job. SO...we going to have a 330 showdown at Walt's this spring? lol Jim Yes indeed! I'm going to run the one that I got from you. Walt also has a 330, so this will be a 3 way shootout.
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Post by bluefingers on Apr 5, 2011 12:32:23 GMT -5
Thanks to this string, I was able to install a new boot in about 3 hours (including time spent looking for a dropped Allen wrench in my messy shop). Only had to use one old curse word.
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Post by sm1nts2escape on Jul 17, 2011 1:57:24 GMT -5
Man just wanted to say thanks alot! Just bought three old homelites. a super 2 without the dual trigger and swapped the motor out of it to the case with the dual trigger. a 240 and a 330. The super 2 started as soon as I put gas in it as well as the 240. The 330 however is not getting fuel to the cylinder. Im guessing cause of this boot. I sprayed a bunch of carb cleaner down the carb to have it pouring out the bottom of the saw. So I deffinitely think this is the problem. Ill tear it apart tomorrow and check it out with the help of your guide. Thanks much!!!
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Post by dancbx on Oct 1, 2011 9:36:47 GMT -5
I have everything loose, is that the pulse line that goes into that plate on the carb? I can't see where it goes. Help anybody? I am changing the boot on a 360. Thanks Dan
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Post by RBW on Oct 4, 2011 7:30:29 GMT -5
HI DAN!!!! ;D
The 360 is a whole different monster.
.
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Post by powerking on Oct 15, 2011 7:17:12 GMT -5
I had a 330 my neighbor gave to me 10 years ago or so and had to replace the vibration isolators, the intake boot, damaged plug wire etc. I think this was one of Homelite's designs that was the start of the company's demise in there product quality. To me, this was a "roach" chain saw and does not hold a candle to likes of the SXL series, SEZ, 360-750 series.
Tom (PK)
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Post by retroben on Nov 26, 2011 15:08:23 GMT -5
Needed a chain saw, my neighbor gave me his father-in-law's abandoned 330. Looks like it was used about twice. Would run (racing) a few seconds if you poured fuel into the carb. The local saw shops wouldn't touch it (or at least that's what my neighbor said, I didn't try taking it in).
I found this forum, found this tutorial, disassembled, and yes, the boot was cracked.
I've never disassembled a chain saw before in my life and this was darn easy compared to the carbs on an old 4-cyl Honda motorcycle!
Thanks a million!
Just to confirm, is this boot part #UP05710? My saw is UT#10540, Ser. #4E1040150
Ben
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