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Post by RBW on Feb 18, 2007 18:10:07 GMT -5
Good lord is this saw a nightmare to work on, especially to change a carb boot on. You have all of the elements that make a saw tough to work on combined in one tight lil package.
Some people throw this saw away rather than try to change the boot, but with this pictorial guide you'll be changing the boot on this saw without the need to learn any new curse words!
Your old curses will do fine!
This also makes these saws a bargain to buy considering you can pick them up cheap and the parts cost is minimal.
So here we go!!!!!!!!!!
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Post by RBW on Feb 18, 2007 18:18:07 GMT -5
Heres the beginning of the disassembly process. Start off by unscrewing the pullstart and setting it aside, a paper box lid, or other good size box will be needed to put your parts in as you'll have to wait for your boot to come in if that is indeed your problem. Next you'll need a 4mm allen wrench to remove the 2 bolts that hold the front handle in place. Once you have them removed, you will have to place the saw on the edge of the table with the pullstart side to the handle overhanging the table and push down on the handle to remove it. Next you will need a 5/16" socket to remove the lower portion of the rear handle (3 screws) and the bottom case screws (4). At this point you should have a beer on the table and your work area will look like the pic below. OK, next up, remove the lower case half, the carb and the oil pump (the black thing behind the carb). Be careful with your lines (fuel,oil and pulse) But as stated above you may want to replace these anyway. Now find your 4mm allen wrench again and remove the 4 screws that hold the saw engine to the anti vibe mounts. Once their all out, you Will need to remove the fuel cap and wiggle/shimmy/twist the outer case half off of the remainder of the saw. Don't go too far with it at this point as you Will need to remove the oil line going to the bar mount area from inside the case. Now your saw should look like this....... You will need to remove all of the connected lines to remove the carb plate and access the carb boot and reed cage.
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Post by RBW on Feb 18, 2007 18:24:06 GMT -5
Here I have removed the fuel line from the carb plate and set the fuel tank aside. You can see the last remaining oil line in the pic. this is connected to a nipple on the bottom of the carb plate. Remove it. The nipple to the left of this pic is the nipple that goes to the oil delivery slot in the bar mount area as mentioned in post #6. Now you can clearly see the problem with this saw, the boot is in two pieces. The white crescent is the top of the reed cage, remove 2 screws that hold the boot retainer and the reed cage to the saw. Now you have removed the offending pieces! At this point your reed cage is full of crap and you should remove it and dump the schmutz out. Now look at your reed petals. Do they all seat properly? If so, your good to go, if their sticking up away from the plastic cage they should be replaced.
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Post by RBW on Feb 18, 2007 19:59:34 GMT -5
Heres the reassembly process with pics detailing the more difficult parts. The first thing you want to do is find your reed cage and double check that theres nothing in it before putting the boot on it. I know we knocked all the gunk out last time but it never hurts to double check. OK, now put the boot on the reed cage and install the cage&boot as a unit with the retainer. I had a pic of this but I lost it somehow, its fairly straight forward but it should be noted that the cage will only go in one way. In this pic you can see the cage,boot and retainer installed in the case with two screws. Also in this pic you'll see the oil pump impulse hose (directly behind the center of the boot) and the oil delivery hose and nipple. Make sure you hook both of these up at this time or you will be unhappy in a half hour. Also thread the carb impulse hose (shown ...........\/........... here) and the fuel line (not shown) through the carb plate.
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Post by RBW on Feb 18, 2007 20:00:27 GMT -5
Ok, now that you have the hoses secured youll need to thread the new boot through the carb plate. I set the plate on top of the boot and pulled the boot through the carb plate Veery Careefully. Pull it up through the plate till it sticks up a lil as shown and then push it down untill it seats on the boot flange in the carb plate. The carb will squash the top of the boot to make a seal so just push it into place until it seats. pic 7---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Now you should be ready to put the upper engine cover in place. Make sure you put the anti vibe bushing cups in the top mount as shown with my finger. One on the case side and one on the screw and fasten the screw to the engine. Also put the other top anti vibe screw in place at this time, its located 180* on the other side of the saw. Once the upper cover is on you can secure the carb plate with the two screws that hold it in place. pic-------------------------------------------------------------------------- The oil pump feed line is shown in this pic connected to the pump. Attach it to the pump before screwing the pump in place. Be carefull not to pinch the hose when tightening the pump mounting screws.. Next up is the carb. ATTACH THE THROTTLE ROD BEFORE INSTALLING THE CARB! Dont know how many times in life you have learn this before it sinks in. Then attach the carb with the two screws and the choke plate in place. Theres lil buttons that go on the carb screws that let the choke rotate the way it should. They both look nearly identical but their not, the T shaped one goes on the choke pivot side. Tighten both carb screws simultainously to avoid John Thomasing the carb too much to one side and causing a leak. Also attach the lines going to the carb, these will only go one way. Now the last you need to do is re attach all of the outer stuff and your saw will look like this..... pic finished--------------------------------------------------------------------
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Post by carmichael on Feb 19, 2007 8:21:34 GMT -5
Dang fine posts there Eric I could almost smell the carb cleaner. By the way I slapped you some Karma
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Post by RBW on Feb 19, 2007 11:14:40 GMT -5
Thanks buddy!
If anyone has a saw that needs repair and they dont feel like working on let me know.
I would be willing to repair your saw for only the cost of shipping and parts as to have another specimin for a tutorial like the one above.
You cant beat that with a stick!
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angel
Collector
Posts: 75
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Post by angel on Feb 18, 2008 23:35:29 GMT -5
I did the boot on my 360, it wasn't that hard. Still can't get it running right though, now I think it's a magneto problem. I was bummed, thats a sweet old saw with a neat sound.
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Post by RBW on Feb 19, 2008 14:04:37 GMT -5
Hi AOD Good to see you!
I would like to do a similar thread on the 360 boot as its another tricky one for the novice.
I have 2 360 saws with bad cylinders and I would like to get one running as I have enjoyed me 450,550,650and 750 very much.
I can help you with your ignition parts, Ill send you a PM.
Eric
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Feb 19, 2008 17:08:53 GMT -5
RBW, I just wanted to give you a quick thanks for posting such an informitive thread. I've refered to it numerious times while replacing the intake boots on my two 330's. Keep up the good work. Jim
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Post by RBW on Feb 22, 2008 13:52:34 GMT -5
Thanks chainsawwhisper!
I must have spend 5-6 hours prepairing this, yep, thats just typing and fixitizing my words into an easily understandable set of instructions.
Its nice to get some feedback posted, although I have sold enough parts and recieved enough PM's to know that 10 or more people took this on knowing they could complete it with help, that may have otherwise just chucked or sold the saw.
I think this is posted on 3-4 sites now. ;D:-/ ;D
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Feb 22, 2008 18:29:14 GMT -5
I actualy sent the link to a guy who got a hold of me through my ebay account, who had 330 intake boot issues. I hope that was alright. I recently got both 330s for free because of the split intake boots, Now that they run , I like running them, latley I've been reaching for them first. It's nice to find a bunch of Homelite nuts,other than myself. FYI I'm looking for a 8800 with a bad p/c. Jim
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Post by RBW on Feb 22, 2008 19:51:21 GMT -5
Alright? Heck man, spread the word!! I hve been very pleased as of late to see others chiming in helping people with some issues. I had actually stopped trying to be first to answer trying to get others to participate more :)as its good to have lots of input to help solve certain issues. Twenty heads are better than one! .
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Post by RBW on Feb 22, 2008 19:55:24 GMT -5
Almost forgot, if you like your 330, try the muffler mod if your muffler is of the proper design. (see thread in this section) This really makes them scream.
Its actually a nice lil saw, I have two more that need boots but I havent found the time to do them yet.
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Feb 23, 2008 11:26:58 GMT -5
I actually am enjoying having 2 quiet saws, as all my other saws have been modded. I'm sure that my neighbors are enjoying the quieter saws as well. One 330 has the muffler cover with no holes, the other has the duel port cover. Did the factory change from the 'duel port' cover to the more restrictive 'no port cover' as restrictions tightened up, or was the 'duel port' cover an option? And while were at it, why on the xl12 do some have the low restriction 'stack' exhaust vs the standard muffler?
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Post by RBW on Feb 23, 2008 11:43:38 GMT -5
Yeah, I can understand wanting to keep at least one saw quiet. Im lucky as most of my neighbore burn wood and own saws.
I know there were two different mufflers for this saw, but I have no idea which came first or why the design changed.
Im not sure why the XL-12 came with the stack style setup other than it was popular for a while. Personally I dont like these as they are not only LOUDD, but they can also let crap into the cylinder when the saw is sitting or rolling in the mud.
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Feb 23, 2008 12:16:09 GMT -5
I truly have great neighbors, they do not burn wood or use saws, but they do put up with my loud hobbys: Loud saws, motorcycles, electric gutiars,etc. I wonder what they say about me? I learned the ropes behind a xl12, and can attest to the fact that they are painfully loud.
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Post by msheriff on Mar 16, 2008 11:41:25 GMT -5
RBW thank you for this pict and post. I couldn't have done it without them. Your hard work saved me!!! I bought my 330 new from a hardware store in 1993 for around $90. Had the rope pulled out and missing gas cap. What a deal. This was the first problem. Thank you Mike
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Post by RBW on Mar 16, 2008 12:35:46 GMT -5
Hi Mike!
Good to see you at the HOUSE!
Glad I could help, anything you need, just ask!
Eric
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Post by plantman on Mar 16, 2008 14:54:13 GMT -5
Good lord is this saw a nightmare to work on, especially to change a carb boot on. You have all of the elements that make a saw tough to work on combined in one tight lil package. Some people throw this saw away rather than try to change the boot, but with this pictorial guide you'll be changing the boot on this saw without the need to learn any new curse words! Your old curses will do fine! This also makes these saws a bargain to buy considering you can pick them up cheap and the parts cost is minimal. So here we go!!!!!!!!!!
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