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Post by tribulation138 on Jul 23, 2011 18:35:19 GMT -5
my guess would be if you used two gaskets the diaphragm would be to high causing not enough fuel to start saw.
to confirm a good spark did you take spark plug out of engine
then plug back into wire and contact the side of engine and pull cord and see a blue spark?
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Post by paintgiant on Jul 23, 2011 18:48:14 GMT -5
Just checked, spark is good no problems there. Just tried to start here again ran for about 5 seconds and stopped. Seems like fuel is being stored in the carb and once that is burned it stops. Let me know what you think but I'm strongly leaning towards taking that gasket out on the diaphragm side seeing as all there was was the diaphragm and then gasket, I'm thinking as you said that that gasket is adding too much space for it to contact the metering lever appropriately. Gonna go ahead and do that now I'll let ya know how I make out.
Just to reiterate, the assembly on the metering side is gasket diaphragm then cover. Will remove that one gasket now
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Post by tribulation138 on Jul 23, 2011 18:53:33 GMT -5
so make sure there is only one gasket right? not two.
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Post by paintgiant on Jul 23, 2011 18:57:00 GMT -5
Yes sir there wasn't one there when I disassembled the carb however I put one in when I rebuilt it and I'm thinking that's too much space so it's just going to be metering side of carb block, diaphragm, cover as it was when I received it. I don't have starting fluid for the carb but I figured she would have taken off by now this has been about the 10th hiccup start and then nothing choke or not.
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Post by tribulation138 on Jul 23, 2011 19:01:17 GMT -5
did you measure the needle lever height? it shouldnt be higher than the carb base. just enough to touch a straight edge
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Post by paintgiant on Jul 23, 2011 19:09:36 GMT -5
I did measure it using a ruler and it was higher than the base, was in accordance with walbro sdc carb manual.
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Post by paintgiant on Jul 23, 2011 19:17:55 GMT -5
Just to double check this as well, the high flow carb needle is the longer and fatter one? Figured they wouldn't seat right anyhow is they were mixed up.
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Post by paintgiant on Jul 23, 2011 20:06:53 GMT -5
Made the changes actually sort of idled for 3 or 4 seconds then cut off
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Post by tribulation138 on Jul 23, 2011 20:09:34 GMT -5
dis u play with idle screw?
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Post by paintgiant on Jul 23, 2011 20:11:23 GMT -5
I did not not sure where I should set it at, left it at the previous location from the original owner. Low and High carb needles are both 1 1/4 turn out.
*Maybe I should try taking the fuel filter off tomorrow and try to start it without one?
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Post by MCS on Jul 24, 2011 7:33:21 GMT -5
This is what should be on the end of the fuel line. It has to have weight so it will work in all positions.  Uploaded with ImageShack.usMany times this weighted assembly is lying in the bottom of the fuel tank. |
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Post by paintgiant on Jul 24, 2011 14:04:44 GMT -5
I do have a fuel filter on the end, not sure what kind but it looks very similar to the first one, am thinking maybe about trying to start it without one on there. At this point I'm a little lost to be honest I figured she'd be running right now and all I"d need to do is adjust the carb needles. Also what should the idle speed screw be set at?
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Post by tribulation138 on Jul 24, 2011 14:17:01 GMT -5
idle screw setting depends on low carb needle setting.
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Post by paintgiant on Jul 24, 2011 15:04:14 GMT -5
Ok sounds good, just disassembled the carb again looks like there gum around the welch plugs should I drill them out and replace them? Carb is definitely getting fuel.
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Post by MCS on Jul 24, 2011 16:35:31 GMT -5
The final setting for idle speed is just below clutch engagement. The mixture screw will affect idle speed so you have to go through it a couple times. Leave the filter on the end of the line. Does the filter have a metal core or at least some weight to it so it will stay in the fuel?
In the tutorials on the home page there is a write-up I did for carburetor adjustments. Read through that.
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Post by paintgiant on Jul 24, 2011 16:49:43 GMT -5
Guys thank you for everything, this saw is badass. Turns out I didn't have the diaphragm stem hooked into the metering lever. She sounds awesome thanks so much I'll be sure to rep you tribulation and MCS! Time for a beer!
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Post by MCS on Jul 24, 2011 17:15:29 GMT -5
Beer time it is.....Damn decisions a guy has to make...  Uploaded with ImageShack.us |
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Post by paintgiant on Jul 24, 2011 17:24:11 GMT -5
Hahaha tough call I'd probably vote Leininkugels first although the fat tree looks enticing;)
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Post by paintgiant on Jul 25, 2011 19:18:41 GMT -5
I feel horrible posting this but I still have a slight problem. The saw runs great until the choke is closed (butterfly closed completely). Not sure where to go from here, jet side of carb is assembled correctly, metering side is good, carb block-> gasket-> diaphragm-> cover. Even called Walbro today to verify this arrangement. Diaphragm is hooked into the metering lever properly. Metering height looks good. Fuel line isn't restricted from what I see and fuel filter is attached at the end. I tried messing with the carb settings to see if I could get it to still run with the choke closed but never could. I would assume the fuel is not getting enough air due to it stalling. All of the tuning was done without the cover or air filter on. Again thank you thus far, this saw is far better now then when I received it.
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Post by tribulation138 on Jul 25, 2011 19:31:34 GMT -5
ok lets get this straight. the saw runs until the choke is closed? that means the choke is on you pulled it. The saw will not run if closed do to lack of air.
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