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Post by paintgiant on Jul 21, 2011 17:16:59 GMT -5
Hey guys, new here to the site as of today and was wondering if anyone could help me out. I picked up an old Homelite XL 12 (blue one) from a yard sale the other day and am working on getting it going. The ladies father had just passed and this was his most reliable saw, she said it runs but not like it should. I've already checked the spark plug, compression seems good, air filter is ok and am in the midst of getting the carburetor out so that I can rebuild it tomorrow or Saturday. Only problem is i can't seem to get it out of the chainsaw. The carb is an SDC 29 Wallbro. I have removed the little throttle bar and choke bar but don't know where to go from here. If anyone can help it would be much appreciated. The other problem I am having is a took the bar and chain off and then the nut that holds the sprocket on except upon reinstallation I can't get it to tighten all the way. If pictures would help let me know I just took some. Thank you very much.
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Post by tribulation138 on Jul 21, 2011 17:47:11 GMT -5
once you remove the carb bracket bolts the carb should brake free. its only held on to the old fuel line and reed valve gaskets. you can also take out the carb needles all the way to make it easier
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Post by tribulation138 on Jul 21, 2011 17:52:26 GMT -5
to tighten the sprocket nut your gonna have to put a old piece of rope in the spark plug hole. the piston will lock up so it will easier to tighten the sprocket nut.
make sure it isnt cross threaded.
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Post by paintgiant on Jul 21, 2011 18:03:21 GMT -5
Ok thank you very much for the tip on locking up the piston, I can't seem to get the top right bracket bolt out for the carb as my socket won't fit over the carb and it's on too tight for my straight blade screwdriver and the other two cant be reached until the top are taken care of I'm assuming? I apologize for my ignorance this is my first time taking a carb out. In terms of the fuel line I'm assuming I can just get that out once the bracket bolts are taken care off.
*the bolt that I was trying to get at must not be a mounting bolt because it won't come all the way out unless the carb is moved. I must be blind because other than those two on top and the two on underneath I don't see any bolts that would free up the carb. I wish I could find a manual or picture I'm quite baffled.
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Post by tribulation138 on Jul 21, 2011 18:59:18 GMT -5
green arrows.... are the bolts that you remove to take out carb. also you might want to take the rubber grommet off to help wiggle carb loose.  |
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Post by tribulation138 on Jul 21, 2011 19:02:02 GMT -5
you can also use a wrench too. or what i do is take apart handle and take off throttle linkage rubber grommet. stick a flat head through the hole and it lines up with lower bracket bolt.
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Post by paintgiant on Jul 21, 2011 20:13:21 GMT -5
Thank you very much tribulation, I don't know why I was making it harder than it had to be. I should have taken a minute to remember that these old homelites are built to last and are very simple in terms of their construction unlike many of the products made today.  |
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Post by MCS on Jul 21, 2011 21:13:49 GMT -5
You've figured it out by now but the easy way to remove the bolts is with a box end wrench.
I see one thing missing with your initial check up of the saw. You didn't check or replace the fuel filter nor have you verified that the fuel line isn't mush.....
Take a piece of wire and bend a small hook in it and use it to fish the fuel line and filter from the tank. Squeeze the fuel line with your finger and it should spring back open when you let go. The filter should be somewhat soft.
If it's a really old XL-12 it may have a wick fuel filter.
Keep us posted on your progress.....
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Post by paintgiant on Jul 21, 2011 21:54:46 GMT -5
Thanks for the reply MCS, the fuel line at least up in the portion where the carburetor is located seems to be in good shape, it is springy and I was able to get it off of the nipple on the carb without it cracking or deteriorating whatsoever. Also it was very secure on the nipple and had some stretch to it. Your completely right, I do need to go over the fuel filter and the line in that section. I will do that tomorrow as well as tighten up the sprocket. When I first got it there was some fluid leaking out of the saw which I am almost certain was bar and chain oil rather than fuel/oil mix. The oil cap does have a plastic hunk taken out of it but the two seals seem to be in good condition and there doesn't appear to be any gaps. I'm praying that it's not due to a bad gasket where the bar and chain oil reservoir mounts to the rest of the saw? (wish I knew the proper term for it). If this is the case I did pick up some liquid gasket maker from napa today and also thread sealant for the carb in case there are any screws that I would need to apply it to? Was hoping if this is the case someone could refer me to which screws those might be. I really appreciate everyones help and am very excited to get this old saw running in tip top shape. After she's running good I'll sharpen the chain and see how the old xl-12 does!
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Post by tribulation138 on Jul 22, 2011 5:25:14 GMT -5
i highly doubt the oil tank reservoir is leaking bar oil by the crank case seal. Most likely its the brass fitting on the oil line that needs tightening. unless there is a crack in oil reservoir.
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Post by paintgiant on Jul 22, 2011 14:13:56 GMT -5
Ok just pulled the fuel line from the tank, that end is not springy and cracking so I will need a new one. I know the fuel lines for these must be fitted for an xl 12 do you guys know the cheapest place to buy one? Also is the fuel filter supposed to be located on the end of the line in the tank because there is nothing there? Working on rebuilding the carb now. I'd like to run it today after rebuilding the carb but there's probably no point in adjusting the carb and what not until I see what condition the fuel filter is in. Thank you everyone for your help thus far.
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Post by paintgiant on Jul 22, 2011 15:15:42 GMT -5
Another couple questions for you guys. I do have a schematic for the carb to refer to but I don't believe it's really exact, or they must have added a coupe things to the rebuild kit. I believe I have the carb torn all the way down only thing left is the welch plugs which I'm not sure if I should remove them. I would assume that they have to be drilled out? Also in my rebuild kit they included and inlet screen which was not in my carb and an extra gasket or two not sure if they're needed or not, it might be best that I just post pictures so I can show what I'm referring to. Thanks for your patience.
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Post by tribulation138 on Jul 22, 2011 16:25:32 GMT -5
carb kits always come with little extras. only use the matching diaphrams/etc. no need to replace welch plugs. just leave them alone. use the new inlet screen is a must to prevent clogging from contaminates.
and make sure to fit a clean fuel filter on a new fuel line before running.
i buy fuel lines from a my local ACE hardware store or homedepot in chainsaw section. Hopedepot also sells fuel/oil rated clear tubing in different sizes in the plumbing section.
or you can order a OEM fuel line off ebay.
yes fuel filter goes on end of line inside tank
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Post by MCS on Jul 22, 2011 16:52:13 GMT -5
Another couple questions for you guys. I do have a schematic for the carb to refer to but I don't believe it's really exact, or they must have added a coupe things to the rebuild kit. I believe I have the carb torn all the way down only thing left is the welch plugs which I'm not sure if I should remove them. I would assume that they have to be drilled out? Also in my rebuild kit they included and inlet screen which was not in my carb and an extra gasket or two not sure if they're needed or not, it might be best that I just post pictures so I can show what I'm referring to. Thanks for your patience. As many carburetor as I have opened up, I rarely find anything wrong under the welch plugs. If you decide to remove them, use a hand crank drill and stop drilling when bit first breaks through them pry it out. Your kit may have a few extra parts. The SDC's are all similar with the exception of those that have an accelerator pump on the side. The fuel line is still available as an after market part through many small engine supply houses. |
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Post by paintgiant on Jul 22, 2011 17:21:43 GMT -5
Thanks guys, added the extra brown inlet screen on the jet side before the black screen and gasket. The diaphragm was definitely shot, also added the round gasket before the diaphragm is seated. Don't think I did anything excessive however I was a little concerned about the gasket on the diaphragm side hoping that this extra space wouldn't interfere with it's contact with the metering lever. I don't think it will though. Tomorrow I will run out and hopefully grab some fuel line that fits and a new fuel filter. Wish I knew whether mine used the old wick style or not, either way I don't think it will matter better to have some type of filter on the end of that hose than not like it was when I got it.
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Post by MCS on Jul 22, 2011 20:39:15 GMT -5
Wish I knew whether mine used the old wick style or not, either way I don't think it will matter better to have some type of filter on the end of that hose than not like it was when I got it. You have a fuel line with a filter on the end so you don't have a wick which is a good thing. When you get around to firing it up, start with both mixtures needles about 1 to 1 1/4 turns open. |
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Post by paintgiant on Jul 22, 2011 20:52:47 GMT -5
I apologize my last post was a little confusing, when pulling the fuel line from the tank there is no fuel filter whatsoever attached to the end, so I need something there. Would any type of fuel filter work? I know the echos and my stepdad's poulan wild thing uses something like a wick fuel filter. Will take your recommendation tribulation and try and find some fuel line at my local hardware store, if theres none there guess I'll try home depot or Browning Equipment.
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Post by paintgiant on Jul 23, 2011 15:44:32 GMT -5
Ok guys heres the update, I got the carb reinstalled today along with all the linkages and also got a fuel line made by stihl that was the same diameter along with some type of wick fuel filter, installed those both today. Mixed up some oil and gas pretty close to a 32:1 mixture and tried to start it. I pulled the rope probably 10 times before it hiccuped on and then shut off. Tried a couple more times and then let it sit. Went to my bosses house same thing although he claims he accidentally flicked the switch to off. Since then hasn't started I'll probably try again sometime tonight after it sits for a while. Has a full tank of gas and the filter sits at the bottom of the tank as I suppose it should (wouldn't know because there was no filter on the end of the line when I got it). It must have spark because of the hiccups and sometimes I'd see smoke coming out of the muffler and i believe there are no restrictions of fuel flow because some gas leaked out of the muffler when I turned it on its side.
Here are my solutions maybe to the problem:
-The spark plug in the saw was a torch L7RTC, also tried an NGKM915 maybe I need a different type
-I added the extra gasket on the diaphragm side when I rebuilt the carb, perhaps its not contacting the metering lever correctly, possibly flooding the carb?
Any of your advice would be much appreciated, thank ya much
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Post by tribulation138 on Jul 23, 2011 17:25:44 GMT -5
you should of used only one gasket on the metering side.
gasket. diaphragm, cover
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Post by paintgiant on Jul 23, 2011 18:05:30 GMT -5
That's the arrangement I put them in, was confused when I rebuilt it because there was no gasket when I took it apart just the diaphragm and then the cover.
*perhaps I should remove that gasket as it may not be allowing the diaphragm to completely make contact with the metering lever?
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