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Post by thomilee on Feb 22, 2010 11:57:37 GMT -5
after sucessfully fixing a stuck piston with the help of members here, i put my saw away without really using it.
i went to use it this weekend and no bar oil ! i rechecked all the oil hoses and can't get oil to the bar when the saw is running. took the impulse hose off and put some air to it & the tank pressurized and pushed oil through the tank pick up through the lines(i by passed the adjustable valve) to the bar. the pulse from the crankcase of the running engine seems kind of week compared to the compressed air it took to move the oil.
the adjustable valve has some pretty small holes in the metering disc. it was leaking around dial rim, i may have lost a part. the inlet spring and ball bearing are there but i fear something is missing. is there supposed to be an o-ring in there? i did kind of blow it apart with too much air pressure, was lucky to find the bearing !
what do you think ?
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Post by MCS on Feb 22, 2010 23:12:26 GMT -5
Does this XL use a pressurized tank or does it have a diaphragm and piston that is mounted to the case just behind the clutch?
If it is a pressurized tank there is a hose from the crankcase to the oil tank and that is what it sounds like what you have. Inside the oil tank there will be a brass bleeder with a duckbill on it at the end of this hose. The hose should be pulled back so this duckbill is close to the top and not in the oil. Don't overfill the tank.
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Post by thomilee on Feb 23, 2010 13:28:05 GMT -5
thanks MCS.this has an impulse line that comes off the carb to the oil tank. it has the duckbill& that is fixed inside, up under the oil fill neck. i'll take some oil out.i'm in florida so maybe the oil is too thick to push.will try a lighter grade.
once pressurized, oil goes through adj.valve intake ball check,then through whichever hole(it has 4) on the metering disk is lined up with the line to the bar.if that makes sense.
need a pic of the inside of that valve as i may have lost a part when i blew it apart with the air. it leaks around the dial.
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Post by MCS on Feb 23, 2010 21:24:10 GMT -5
Does your carburetor look something close to this?  In this version the crankcase pulse goes to the plate below the pump diaphragm. The oil pickup goes to the lower pump fitting and the output line to the bar goes to the top fitting. This is a pressurized tank and a pump. Some XLs used just a pressurized tank that didn't work well. The early XL2 has a pump behind the clutch. |
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Post by thomilee on Feb 24, 2010 19:07:54 GMT -5
my carb doesn't have the oil pump on top like your drawing shows. there are two impulse holes where it mounts to the saw.one for the fuel pump and another which exits the rear side of the carb as a brass tube that accepts a hose that goes into the oil tank neck, where it ends in a duckbill valve. maybe there is a leak where the hoses go into the oil tank. looks like i've got the pressurized tank version that doesn't work so well. a manual oiler is looking good right now.
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Post by MCS on Feb 25, 2010 9:18:12 GMT -5
The XL I have has the pressurized tank style and it doesn't work well either. I'm going to spend some more time with it this summer and try something other than bar and chain oil - maybe some straight 20 or 30 and see if it will pump. The engine runs great but I can't get it to oil consistently. I would mount a manual pump somehow if I could come up with one  |
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Post by thomilee on Mar 1, 2010 18:24:29 GMT -5
MCS, maybe this will work for you too. took out the metering valve and put in a fuel purging bulb as an manual oil pump. hooked the tank pickup to the suction side of the bulb and the bar line to the discharge side. the bulb is strong enough to readilly pull oil out of the tank and the fish mouth valve makes sure it goes to the bar when you push down.simple fix for an aggravating problem. only $4.25 at the local saw shop. i left the original pulse line & fish mouth to the tank hooked up to help out. so far so good. Attachments:
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Post by mikem on Mar 1, 2010 21:31:22 GMT -5
MCS, maybe this will work for you too. took out the metering valve and put in a fuel purging bulb as an manual oil pump. hooked the tank pickup to the suction side of the bulb and the bar line to the discharge side. the bulb is strong enough to readilly pull oil out of the tank and the fish mouth valve makes sure it goes to the bar when you push down.simple fix for an aggravating problem. only $4.25 at the local saw shop. i left the original pulse line & fish mouth to the tank hooked up to help out. so far so good. Innovative fix. have you guys tried thinning your bar oil with a little kerosene to make it easier to pick up ? My granddad did this in the winter on an older Montgomery Wards saw ( Homelite ?) |
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Post by MCS on Mar 2, 2010 9:28:04 GMT -5
Metering valve? All my XL has is the pulse line with a duckbill at the end and an output line that goes directly to the bar channel. Simple but doesn't work well.
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Post by thomilee on Mar 5, 2010 16:16:59 GMT -5
this is the oil valve i replaced with the primer bulb. the red disc rotates to align one of four different size holes with the bar oil port in the black part. even on the largest hole i wasn't getting enough. the bulb took care care of that. manual is better than maybe. i did go to some thinner oil too. Attachments:
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Post by 8milimeter on Mar 30, 2020 9:59:38 GMT -5
UPDATE: I recently picked up a older XL 14" UT-10618 with the pressurized tank (no pump).
After replacing the duck valves it still would not pump even with ATF as oil.
It ended up being the oil tank filter. I could blow compressed air thru it,
but the oil would not flow. I ended up using a old gas filter and took the felt off it.
Under the felt was a very fine screen. Put that in the oil tank and the ATF came out almost to fast.
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Post by sweepleader on Mar 30, 2020 12:06:35 GMT -5
Hopefully you have changed back to real oil for the chain. ATF does not have all the additives in it that help with chain lubrication, notably corrosion inhibitors. ATF is expected to be used in a sealed environment (inside a transmission) so it is not exposed to moisture and other contaminants. Heavy oil is not needed, I use 10-30 motor oil, but the additives are.
Nice work getting the oiler going.
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