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Post by kvanlaan on Sept 8, 2009 7:02:03 GMT -5
This is my first post on this board (but I've learned plenty as a lurker already) and I wanted to know if the starting sequence matters. That is, if I flip the switch on, then prime once, then pull the choke out, and then attempt to start (pushing the choke in after it fires once and then pulling a last time), is that any different than doing it any other way once the switch is on?
I have an older metal-bodied Homelite with a 20" bar that I really enjoy but seems to be very tempermental. Sometimes I can pull all afternoon and it won't fire up, other times it fires on the first or second pull. That's why I ask; is it something that I am doing? Does heat/humidity matter in how easily it will start?
Also, how do I tell the model/age of my chainsaw?
Thanks so much for your help!
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Post by mikem on Sept 8, 2009 7:21:49 GMT -5
Welcome to the board !! I don't believe the sequence of events makes much difference as long as you have all done before you pull the starter cord. I am not sure what you mean by "priming" the saw then pulling the choke. As this is an older saw presumably without a primer bulb, how are you priming it ?
There should be a plate on the saw with a model number and serial number. If that is missing, post a pic and we will help you identify the saw.
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Post by kvanlaan on Sept 8, 2009 8:37:24 GMT -5
Thanks much for the welcome. There is a black plunger that I assume primes the saw, I usually give it one squirt before starting it. I guess it is just tempermental is all...
I will try to get back with a serial # to help ID the saw.
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Post by kvanlaan on Sept 8, 2009 11:16:13 GMT -5
One other thing: any idea on the erratic starting issues? I can't figure why sometimes it is a one-pull go and others, I could pull all day longwithout any success at all.
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Post by billg on Sept 8, 2009 11:44:02 GMT -5
........... There is a black plunger that I assume primes the saw, I usually give it one squirt before starting it. ........ That black plunger is your manual oiler. No matter how many times you pump that it will not help you get it started. It will leave one spot on the chain well oiled though. ;D Bill |
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Post by mikevan on Sept 8, 2009 17:57:00 GMT -5
The times you can't get it started 'all day long' I'd have to guess you have flooded the engine. Too many pulls on the cord while choked will do this to many saws. On most, at the first sign of it firing or trying to start, the choke can be opened part way. When it gets one of these no start fits, take the spark plug out, the tip will probably be wet with gas mix. If you let it air out for a few minutes, put it back together, and it should start with no choke.
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Post by MCS on Sept 8, 2009 18:21:54 GMT -5
Hi K and welcome to the board Since you have a metal bodied saw, what ever you are pumping is not a primer as others have pointed out. I caught your comment (pushing the choke in after it fires once and then pulling a last time). This is pretty typical, pull the choke then the rope until it fires. Does your trigger lock work? If the trigger isn't locked open, it will make the saw tough to start. You never did tell us if the saw runs well once you get it started - does it run  We are all waiting to hear what model it is.  |
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Post by kvanlaan on Sept 8, 2009 18:59:46 GMT -5
OK, here is the info on the larger one:
Textron
UT No:50133
Serial: T8300209
The smaller:
Textron
Type: 10483
Serial: T7702708
Both are made in Canada, in Pointe Clair, Quebec.
As for the 'primer', yep, it's the manual oiler. Makes sense, because it makes kindofa 'squish'-ing sound when I punch it. (I'm feeling just a wee bit sheepish now!)
Oh, and once it runs, it runs really well - I can fly through large logs with some speed. However, when I've run through a tank of gas, I can't get it restarted if it is hot.
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Post by RandyMac on Sept 9, 2009 12:17:39 GMT -5
Hot start problems could be a lean setting, ease the needles out a touch. does it seem to run hot? Is the fuel boiling? A clean saw runs cooler, see the thread "hose out her gap" LOL
Try leaving the throttle closed when starting hot.
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Post by mikevan on Sept 9, 2009 17:30:17 GMT -5
My 041 got really hard to start hot, a new plug was the fixer. The old one, well, the porcelan had turned brown - Got my moneys worth outta that one!!
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Post by kvanlaan on Sept 9, 2009 20:55:06 GMT -5
So where is the best place to look for figuring out Homelite models and ages? I'm very curious, because these don't seem like they were made in the last 20 or 30 years, but they may be newer and just be a bit banged up. I listed the serial/model above, but don't know where to look to figure out what they mean.
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Post by MCS on Sept 9, 2009 21:34:11 GMT -5
So where is the best place to look for figuring out Homelite models and ages? I'm very curious, because these don't seem like they were made in the last 20 or 30 years, but they may be newer and just be a bit banged up. I listed the serial/model above, but don't know where to look to figure out what they mean. There are two sites that are related to collecting saw. www.chainsawcollectors.se/This site has lots of good info but it has been down for a few days. www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsfAlthough the Homelite brand is still in the market place, I'd say that sometime in the '90s the good Homelites were out of production. The brand was sold and now they all come to the US on a boat. Oregon has pretty much quit making bars with the older Homelite mounts although other brand mounts are close enough to use. So yes, 20 years is a good guess. In the first link above, go to the Homelite section and there is a post about serials. |
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Post by kvanlaan on Sept 10, 2009 9:54:21 GMT -5
Interesting post on the serial numbers, thanks very much! However, in some ways, it doesn't make sense to me. First:
"The following information should answer most of your questions regarding serial numbers and how to read them.
EXAMPLE: Serial number: 4G1521238
"4" - This number specifies the assembly line the unit was built on. This could also be represented by a letter.
"G" - This letter specifies the year of final assembly. (See letter codes below). Before a letter was used to specify the year, a number was used. (See numeric code below).
"152" - The next 3 numbers specify the calendar day of the year (day 152).
"1238" - This was the 1,238th unit built that day.
"G152" - These 4 digits make up the LOT NUMBER."
Thus, by this manner of deciphering the serial, my saw was built in 1998, on the 770th day of the year, and was the 2708th unit of that day.
That is, unless it is a much older saw, and it was instead built in 1977 (but then why the "T" designation?)
"LETTER CODE FOR YEARS:
C-1981 D-1982 E-1983 F-1984 G-1985 H-1986 I-1987 J-1988
K-1989 L-1990 M-1991 N-1992 O-1993 P-1994 Q-1995 R-1996
S-1997 T-1998 U-1999 V-2000 W-2001 X-2002 Y-2003 Z-2004
PREVIOUS NUMERIC CODE:
2-1972 3-1973 4-1974 5-1975 6-1976 7-1977 8-1978
9-1979 0-1980 1-1981
Prior to the 9-digit serial number now being used, an 8-digit number was used. The 8-digit number reads the same as the 9-digit number except the assembly line designation was not used."
I need a head-scratching smilie, I think...
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Post by MCS on Sept 10, 2009 10:43:59 GMT -5
That chart may not work with saws made in Canada  |
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Post by kvanlaan on Sept 10, 2009 14:39:51 GMT -5
Actually, that makes perfect sense. Everything's different up here... (Especially in Quebec!  ) I did some digging and found that Terry Machinery (one of the names on one of the stickers) was made distributor in the mid-1950's in the British Commonwealth. Textron then purchased Terry in 1960 and absorbed them into the larger company in the mid-1980's. Homelite was acquired by John Deere in 1994. i150.photobucket.com/albums/s101/caporal30/HOMELITE-PAGE2.jpgAll that being said, it would appear that at least one of my chainsaws is from the early '80's. OK, at my earliest convenience, I will post a photo, see if we can ID it that way. |
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Post by kvanlaan on Sept 10, 2009 19:45:06 GMT -5
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Post by TALLGUY on Sept 10, 2009 20:04:28 GMT -5
wow that looks like a chain brake on a super xl. I can't say as I have ever seen one. The XL1 is a great saw to run
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Sept 10, 2009 20:25:19 GMT -5
An XL with a brake!!! That is rare, at least in this country. Is it a Canadian saw?
I have never seen one, not even a picture. I have seen a pic of the empty brake housing, I think billg? posted the pic.
CSW
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Sept 10, 2009 20:30:44 GMT -5
I just read your post # 14, It answered my question about it being a Canadian saw.
That's the second time today that I have done that, Sorry.
Jim
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Post by woodplayer on Sept 10, 2009 20:38:09 GMT -5
Hey kvanlann I had recently sold my XL1 to Oldzip from this forum. UT 10483, S/N T7800580. These are great little Canadian saws very similar to the Canadian Super Mini or the American Super EZ, except the XL1 does not have the decompression feature. My XL1 ran great, had 170psi when cold. They are 41.2cc, bore=39.7mm, stroke=33.3mm. I should have kept it but the decompression feature comes in handy my super mini, especially since they are very light saws with good compression. Mine XL1 was hard to start without setting on the ground and I had to "thin the herd" a little.   |
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