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Post by TALLGUY on Apr 24, 2007 10:40:47 GMT -5
Anyone know anything about the XP series saws I just picked one up at a auction for scrap price and took it home and cleaned it up and it runs like a top. XP1100 It is a gear drive saw. It has a 1/2" pitch sprocket gear. I didn't get a bar or chain with it and really would like to be able to take it out when cleaning up cottonwood with a long bar and chain. anyone know where I can get a .404 gear from or made? I think I can get a bar and chain if I can get the 404 gear. This weekend I plan to rebuild the carb and get the saw to idle. I took 2" of varnish out of the tank and I'm sure the carb wasn't much better. Sea foam works wonders but doesn't fix the damage to the gaskets from the age. everything is in great shape the oiler works great as I found out made a big puddle in the driveway while running.
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gtor72
Gots Tree Cred
Posts: 35
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Post by gtor72 on Apr 24, 2007 21:29:43 GMT -5
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Post by TALLGUY on May 7, 2007 12:41:43 GMT -5
I tore into the gear box on this saw to clean up the gears and get it ready for some new lube. I found a broken bolt and all the other bolts on the idler gear were lose. I had to take off the clutch and everything to get the gear out to replace the bolt. Looking at the clutch should there be facing material on the clutch shoes or is it a metal on metal clutch? The only clutches I have worked on before were direct drive and they were all metal on metal. I want to find out if I should be looking for new clutch shoes or cleaning off the black gunk that is on the ends of the shoes. No damage done to the gear just a little scrape on the side where the bolt hit when it backed out. The head of the bolt was nice and tucked away in one of the pockets of the case.
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Post by RBW on May 7, 2007 23:11:14 GMT -5
Any way you could post a pic of one of the clutch shoes?
Some clutch shoes have a lining and some are metal on metal.
As far as your sprocket is concerned, you would probably do well to convert the saw to a rim/drum type drive rather than the standars sprocket. This will be easier to find for your saw and will be more versatile.
It will save you money in the long run too.
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Post by TALLGUY on May 8, 2007 9:37:32 GMT -5
Ill work on the pics when I get home tonight. (mental note) It does resemble a fiber when I scratched it up a bit last night so I am thinking that it was some kind of material. Not much left on it now. looks like burned oil. You talk about changing this to a rim drive saw. I still have to get a drive (gear) to put a rim on it. This is a gear drive saw so it has the sprocket with two keys. I have seen a picture of a rim drive for this set up just have no idea where to get one from. I have searched all over the net and ebay. Having a rim set up I agree would be the way to go then you can change the number of teeth and pitch much quicker and much easier to find. I believe Ray B. on AS posted the picture I found when I was searching out all the info I could. This saw has the 2 to 1 gear so it should be able to drive a 8 tooth rim. I have rim setup on all my SXL saws and prefer them to spurs. If I ever come up with a drive system then it will be finding a 24" to 36" bar for .404 63 BTW RBW Thanks for setting up this site homies were cutting edge in there day and for the guy that likes vintage and can handle the weight they are a real experience.
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Post by RBW on May 8, 2007 22:48:34 GMT -5
Thanks for the Thanks TG!
Do you need the double keyed one or will a single keyed one do?
I have a single and I think its .404.
I could have a large spline adapter made with twin keys and youcould run the rim of your choice, but it would be pricy.....
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Post by TALLGUY on May 9, 2007 8:36:11 GMT -5
Well I got busy working around the house and didn't get pic yet.
The current spur is 2 key but I'm sure a single would work. I see they use single on harvesters so it should be able to handle this little saw. I have some contacts that machine metal I just want to make sure this saw will run and the gears go back together before I start spending money on a drive spur. I really like the idea of the floating rim but this is still a budget saw. Ill let you know if I'm feeling rich. I'm kinda surprised someone hasn't done this gear (rim style) on a CNC and made some to sell. (I'm thinking this would be a way to offset the setup cost.) Catch ya on the flip side.
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