Need some info on an XL

[nickm]

I came across this saw while cleaning out my grandparents house. XL, UT no: 10517B, Serial no: 7E2801388. It has a blown motor, and has been sitting probably close to 30 years. Would this be worth rebuilding and are parts readily available for it? I don’t really need it, but I think it would be fun to try and get it running again. Any info would be great. I don’t really know much about it, or old chainsaws in general. 

Attachments:

[undee70ss]

Yes parts are available, How did you determine that the motor is blown?

[nickm]

May 1, 2022 21:35:55 GMT -5 undee70ss said:

Yes parts are available, How did you determine that the motor is blown?

That’s what my dad told me. I didn’t take anything apart yet. 

[5terrysupersaws]

 Date of Manufacture:  Friday - October 7 - 1983

 Homelite's smallest saw, 26cc engine, easy to work on, plenty of parts still out there.

[w30bob]

'Blown' can mean a lot of different things to different people. These engines are about as simple as they come, so worst case you take it apart and learn something about how they work before you toss it in the round file. Best case it just needs a new bearing or three and you're back in business. Lots of parts still available, so why not have a go at it? The most you got to lose is bit of your time to see what's what. Just make sure you degrease everything real well before you spread all the parts out on the dining room table. On second thought.......don't do that, there's enough divorced people out there already. Have fun with it.

;O)
bob

[nickm]

Bob, that is exactly what I was thinking. I would rather practice on this in case I ruin it rather than something that I actually need. It was going to go in the scrap pile otherwise.

Some good news, this may not actually be blown. I was talking to my dad about it last night and I think he had this confused with another one. Him and my grandfather both had the same one. The rope pulls over good, seems like it has compression and I checked and it has good spark. Before I pull it apart I think I’m just going to clean the carburetor and see if I can get it to run. If not, then it comes apart.

[sweepleader]

How about putting a squirt of fuel mix in the carb and pulling it over a few times before you take it apart? Do not use starting fluid, it can wash out any oil and damage rings and bearings. An oil mix somewhere between 16:1 and 50:1 seems about right, depending on who you ask. I like 40:1.

It just might not need anything! If it has compression and spark, it could be good to go as is. Stranger things have happened. Welcome to the House of Homelite.

[nickm]

May 3, 2022 7:54:24 GMT -5 sweepleader said:

How about putting a squirt of fuel mix in the carb and pulling it over a few times before you take it apart? Do not use starting fluid, it can wash out any oil and damage rings and bearings. An oil mix somewhere between 16:1 and 50:1 seems about right, depending on who you ask. I like 40:1.

It just might not need anything! If it has compression and spark, it could be good to go as is. Stranger things have happened. Welcome to the House of Homelite.

Thanks for the welcome. I will do that. I don’t like using starting fluid on anything. I have some tru fuel premix, that should work. 

[nickm]

I put a splash of fuel in the carb, and it started on the 3rd pull. I only let it run a few seconds since I didn’t have the bar on and I wasn’t sure if that would hurt anything.

Do you guys recommend rebuilding the original carb, or replacing it?

[sweepleader]

Put the bar and chain on and see how it cuts. If it runs ok, leave it alone, if it has carb trouble, rebuild is cheaper and you learn more.

Check the fuel line all the way to the pickup/filter in the tank, make sure there are no leaks.

Then start it up and set the idle speed screw high enough so it will run without stalling. Adjust the high speed mix for good running, a little slower/richer than maximum speed. The engine should sound a little rough when it is right and smooth out when you put a load on it by cutting.

After the high speed is set close, lower the idle speed screw until the idle mixture screw has an effect. Adjust it for max speed and lower the idle speed screw some more. Repeat this idle process, lowering the speed screw each time until you get the clutch to disengage and the engine idling smoothly.

Check for acceleration lag when opening the throttle, if there is a lag, turn the idle mixture screw out a little and try again. You might have to raise the idle speed screw some.

The end result should be idling without stalling, clutch disengaged, acceleration to high speed without stall or bog, max power in the cut.

If you cannot tune it for these conditions, rebuild the carb. Replacement should be a last resort in my book. Check the gaskets and reeds when you have the carb apart to make sure they are all in order.

Its much more fun if you fix it yourself.

[nickm]

I have it all back together and it’s running pretty good, and starts easy. I’m just waiting on a new air filter and chain so I can try cutting with it. Thanks for the help guys! I will let you know how the test run goes.

[blythkd]

I was hard pressed to believe it had a "blown" motor. Those are really pretty rugged little motors especially considering most never got many hours of use. Glad you got it running. Sweepleader steered you right.

My biggest concern at this point is oil. Have you seen any oil come out of it yet? Just trying to head off any issues when you first try to cut with it. I'm guessing your saw has the diaphragm/plunger type automatic oiler which is getting to be an issue since you would be lucky to find a new diaphragm nowadays. As long as it sat idle, that diaphragm is likely hard and maybe even cracked.

Fingers crossed!