The manual oiler has been fading for some time. I now have no resistance or oil flow. It has been stopped up a time or two over the yeare but there has always been resistance when the button was depressed. What procedure should I follow to determine the problem?
Bobby 167 is right,check those out first.Is your oil tank a screw on,or an epoxied on tank cover?If it's a screwed on cover you can take it off & give the inside a thorough cleaning & the filter too.BUT....you'll most likely need to get a new gasket.
Have you noticed any oil on the exterior of the saw anywhere where the oil line runs?Wondering if it's possible there's a pin hole leak in the line & it opened up.
bobby167 and edju1958, Thanks for your replies. I have downloaded the 3rd edition manual (best guess using year of manufacturing estimate) but the only references to the oil is the pump. I was hoping to find the location of the oil filter mentioned above as well as the routing of the line to the chain. This is new territory for me. Headed out of town for a few days but I will pull the plunger and check the o-rings first. No oil leaking from the saw. Also no clue yet what type of tank I have. I'll report my findings when I get back. Thanks again for your input.
Look on this site or go to Leon's site, search for IPL for the XL 101. It will show you where the parts are located on saw. The one I have is on side ,left, there is a plug that has the check valve / gasket / line & filter in it. #'s 55 / 56 are the plunger & spring. Careful when you take plunger out that spring doesn't fly out. Those service manuals are very good, but don't show everything. The IPL will give you good location & what parts are on the saw. As edju1958 said, clean out old gunk. I use brake cleaner.
Great. Check the filter & rubber hose first. There should be an oil tank cover on the other side of saw, right side. Could be grime in there also, but as I said check filter & rubber hose first. The check valve could also be bad. Let us know & we can go from there. If my memory is correct, it goes through passages in engine / cover. No hoses. The auto oiler has a line. I'll make sure for you or someone on here could let you know, if this is not correct. Just start with the simple items first.
2manybikes: Sorry, I need to correct some information in my last post to you. Check to see if your saw has a copper line from just below choke, to bar. One of my parts saw's has that line. It's a manual oiler also. Memory must be going. Again, Sorry!
Just some input here.ALL 101s have the copper line that goes from the tank to the bar pad.ALL 101s are manual oiling only.Some early 102s are manual oiling only too.Only the later 102,103,& 104 will have 2 copper lines as they are automatic & manual oiling.
Post by 2manybikes on Apr 12, 2022 17:02:28 GMT -5
I pulled the plunger earlier. Both O-rings are there and the spring came out with the plunger. I do not see any way of checking anything else without getting into the oil tank. It looks like the entire side to include the housing for the recoil spring and starter cord are all one piece. Guess there is a gasket between it and the oil tank that will need to be replaced?
You have two ways to check the filter. Remove starter housing, remove the brass plug & pull out the unit. Other way is to remove bar cover / chain /bar. Remove the 6 screws that hold tank on. Will need new gasket. I asked about line in earlier post. Wanted to make sure it was not removed, or changed. There should be a check valve on handle side. Sometimes they are replaced with straight fitting. Should not be a problem. Good luck!
Post by 2manybikes on Apr 12, 2022 17:42:22 GMT -5
Sorry I did not reply to your question about the line. It's been on there as long as I can remember. As I stated in my first post, Its been fading for some time before it stopped working. It has worked fine in the past. You could easily see oil on the bar after you pumped it a few times. I may have time tomorrow to pull the starter housing and go from there. Thanks for you help.
One more suggestion. Where that copper line goes to front of saw, there is a very small hole for oil to come out. You could try to put some very low air pressure in line, after taking it off, at handle. In your first picture.
Post by 2manybikes on Apr 13, 2022 18:10:11 GMT -5
Got the check valve and filter removed earlier. Actually totally clean and not blocked. Washed it out good anyway with brake cleaner and sprayed some in the tank for good measure. The cleaner flowed easily through the filter and the flexible line that connects it to the check valve. Air flows through the check valve in the direction the oil would flow but it has a lot of resistance. I put it all back together and it still does not work. I will have to wait a day or two to blow the copper oil line out, my air hose decided to crap out as the compressor was filling the tank. I'm no mechanic but it seems to me pressure would at least build up and be evident at the button when depressed even if the line was clogged. Should I order a check valve? Leon's has one in stock according to the website. Also, is the tiny hole I am pointing to with the red straw where the oil comes out?
Last Edit: Apr 13, 2022 18:26:11 GMT -5 by 2manybikes
You are correct. Wanted to make sure everything is clean. There are small holes, one in pump hole, the other goes from filter / check valve to oil tank. Take a piece of hose, or I use end of ink pen, place it in pump valve assembly & blow into it to see if it is clear. Do same with hole, one into tank at top. This is with all parts removed. Basic operation of oiler is to pressurizes tank, sending oil to bar. I'm thinking that pump valve or "o" rings are bad.
Post by 2manybikes on Apr 13, 2022 20:37:23 GMT -5
I ordered the check valve so I'll try that first. I'll replace the O-rings if that doesn't fix it. I will also blow out the copper line. If the O-rings have to be replaced, how do you remove the button to replace the top O-ring? Thanks for your help.
The button :should: pull off. They are very tight. Careful not to break it. You said your not a mechanic, but I think your doing one darn good job. Just a thought, don't think it is, check the oil cap. They have a vent in them also.
Last Edit: Apr 13, 2022 21:54:55 GMT -5 by bobby167
Post by 2manybikes on Apr 21, 2022 16:17:54 GMT -5
I decided after my last post to order the 2 O-rings as well. Got it taken apart, replaced the O-rings and the valve and had it back together in less than 15 minutes. (Now that I know how to do it!) Can't say what part had failed but it works and I am very greteful for the help I got here. Wish the parts had been here sooner since I had to use my Stihl Mini Boss to cut up a large red oak with a 32" dimeter. It got the job done but the bottom 12' of the tree would have been easier with the XL. Again, thanks for the help!
Glad to hear you got it fixed. These oiling systems are pretty simple. I had you clean everything, in oiling system , because when you add oil to the tank you can get dirt / sawdust into system. Before adding oil. Wipe cap / area around it clean. Filter should catch most of it, but not all of the crap. When you are working on equipment 30 / 35 years old, you never know what is bad. I don't want to get too long, another suggestion is at back of bar, where the mounting studs go, there is a hole for the oil to go. Clean it out every so often. Will plug up & no oil to chain. Good luck. You should have many many years of great usage.