|
|
Post by kvacek on Mar 26, 2022 11:10:32 GMT -5
A neighbor discarded this saw a few years ago and I saved it. Finally got around to cleaning it up and looking for info yesterday and the model number draws a blank everywhere I search. Finally found you guys and am enthused that I'll have a good saw soon.
Very readable Textron label says Model G7146, Serial 104442. Round white on black XL label on side.
Thanks!
Karl
|
|
|
|
Post by 5terrysupersaws on Mar 26, 2022 15:14:59 GMT -5
A neighbor discarded this saw a few years ago and I saved it. Finally got around to cleaning it up and looking for info yesterday and the model number draws a blank everywhere I search. Finally found you guys and am enthused that I'll have a good saw soon. Very readable Textron label says Model G7146, Serial 104442. Round white on black XL label on side. Thanks! Karl UT:10444-2 = Model: XL-26cc - w/10" Hard Tip guide bar LOT:G7146 - Date of Manufacture = Thursday - May 26th - 1977 - Assembly Line G |
|
|
|
Post by kvacek on Mar 26, 2022 19:13:44 GMT -5
Thank you so much, Terry. Now I know how to look for the one part missing - the formed wire link from the throttle to the carb. Don't know how that flew away.
Tillotson carb, but I'm not sure I'll even open it before I try fresh fuel. Might change the hoses just due to age, but I want to try it first. Used to run very well. Good spark.
|
|
|
|
Post by 5terrysupersaws on Mar 26, 2022 20:31:05 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by kvacek on Mar 27, 2022 11:51:41 GMT -5
Thanks again - that's the rest of the info I needed to try to understand what it's called. So many XL models, and most of them 58CC, plastic case, look way different, etc, etc.
With the correct parts list I can do fine. And that alternate link to Leon's is way better than the Leon's website I was looking at yesterday, though to be fair most of the time I was on my phone and not a real computer.
Karl
|
|
|
|
Post by kvacek on Apr 14, 2022 10:45:04 GMT -5
Thanks to the information here, I found a parts list and maybe a manual that at least are close to my saw. Waited for a Tillotson carb kit and a few days of flu. Got it all together just now and it runs well and oils well - TOO well.
I replaced all lines (fuel and oil) with yellow Tygon or equivalent. Found the rotted off duckbill and porous connector piece in the oil tank, replaced with a new duckbill on the porous piece, left 1/16" of the porous part exposed as I read somewhere in these Forums.
There are oil drops all over where I tuned it - maybe 5-7 minutes runnning in all after the oil started to flow.
All lines are as shown in the pictures. I Itook the diaphragm out, cleaned everything, was worried that the diaphragm seemed stiff compared to the soft return spring, but it definitely works. Is there something I missed? I do remember refilling the chain oit when I last borrowed it 20 years ago, but this is Echo bar oil and seems a little thicker than whatever motor oil I probably used back then.
Ideas?
ALSO -
Thanks to Terry's help above I know it's a
UT:10444-2 = Model: XL-26cc - w/10" Hard Tip guide bar
LOT:G7146 - Date of Manufacture = Thursday - May 26th - 1977 - Assembly Line G
BUT -
Whenever I try to look up things I find many names for saws (looked at the Acres site too) but nothing matches what I have.
What's the saw name I should be looking for? I'm not sure the manuals I have are exactly this saw.
|
|
|
|
Post by kvacek on Apr 14, 2022 10:54:00 GMT -5
I didn't notice any orifice in my oil pickup sa shown in my manual which at least looks to be for my saw. The page notes that "Orifice of pressure feed system is not used in positive displacement pump type system". But I have a pressuriuzed oil tank. If I'm missing that piece I can see it going nuts with the oil.
Looks like 93703-A Sound to be a likely cause?
|
|
|
|
Post by kvacek on Apr 14, 2022 15:20:36 GMT -5
Found another manual online that gives more details of the oil restrictor orifice. Hole is supposed to be .046, though maybe that changed over various revisions...
Went looking in my grandfather's rivet jar and found some tubular rivets that are a good tight fit in the connecting end of the oil clunk/screen, but the hole is still .060 or so. Tried one that way (also pulled the porous connector out of the tube more to try for more air leakage, but all that doesn't visibly slow the flow at all. The thing puts out at least much oil as it uses gas.
Next I suppose I'll plug up a rivet with JB Weld (aluminum so I can't just use solder) and drill a much smaller orifice. I have some TINY drills somewhere from my days working at Binks, the spray gun company.
Doesn't look like Leon has the porous connector, at least not the numbers I find, so I have to hope mine is OK - it's original to the saw. If .046 is really the orifice size I can make that or smaller right now rather than wait.
Any other suggestions?
Thanks all!
Karl
|
|
|
|
Post by bobby167 on Apr 14, 2022 17:48:56 GMT -5
There are 2 general types of oiling systems, that I am aware of. One uses an oil pump, like yours. One type was mounted to carb, other type was on engine, like yours. They were used on older XL's. Then they changed, eliminating the oil pump. Using crankcase pulses to pressurize the oil tank. Both systems have a pressurized tank. The part 93703-B, should be the one used with your saw. Leon should have them. As far as the 69659-B, good luck finding them. IF you find them they are very high $$$$.I purchased some plastic ones to try, but haven't used them yet.
|
|
|
|
Post by kvacek on May 6, 2022 8:33:07 GMT -5
Forgot to post my final result. Got the "official" orifice from Leon, pulled the porous connector out as far as I could without it comming loose, and now the oiling is pretty much perfect.
Thanks to all for the help and advice.
Karl
|
|
|
|
Post by rarefish383 on May 12, 2022 18:45:37 GMT -5
Forgot to post my final result. Got the "official" orifice from Leon, pulled the porous connector out as far as I could without it comming loose, and now the oiling is pretty much perfect. Thanks to all for the help and advice. Karl Just a little note, 50 years in the tree business, going back to when all saws had manual oilers. You always want the oil to run out right when the fuel does. I have 50+ year old bars that look like new on the rails, and function perfect. You cant put too much oil on the bar, but it's easy to not put enough. I have friends that burn up a couple bars a year because they set the adjustment to just trickle out oil. I'd rather have to put a mat under the saw than buy new bars. |
|
