Are there any certain saws that are better to restore than others? I was messing around in my Dad's shop and found a couple of saws and would like to restore one. C6147 10499B 4C2810277 SUPER XL AUTO 04502735 100800 3E2520028 10045-C 3F3250044 10080-D 4G2490275 C7021 100453 10045C 5E3070075
Post by oldwoodsplitter on Mar 13, 2022 18:30:05 GMT -5
I think the old blue and white ones have more appeal to me than the red ones. Part of that is personal history. My dad cut a lot of firewood with a 1973 XL12. I split a lot of that wood once I got old enough to. I currently have a a 1976 red and black s Super XL that I am working on. Once I get that one going, I am going to try to get Dad’s old blue and white one working. Have fun with whatever you chose. It can be a challenge if you have an air leak or the carb is acting up.
Super XLAO is a 58.2 cc saw. Xl12 is a 54cc saw. Same stroke, different diameter piston. The AO stands for auto oiler. Apparently auto oiling was a technical advance worth mentioning. Saws with manual oiling have a plunger located under your right thumb. Some saws have both auto oiling and manual with a plunger. I use both saws to block up 6 cords for my yearly firewood.
I have restored a red Super XLAO circa 1973 and a blue XL12 circa 1963. The XL12 had a large felt wick inside one side of the gas tank. The gas was drawn through the wick. I replaced that tank with a later one that uses the system of the fuel filter flopping around on the end of the gas line.
The Super has 3/8 diameter bar studs and uses a bar with a D096 end. The XL12 has 5/16 bar studs so the bar has a smaller slot than the one for the Super. There is an adapter that allows the bigger bar to fit the smaller studs. Both currently have 16 inch bars on them. They both use a 3/8 pitch and .050 gauge chains. At first I was misinformed and put on a chain with 60 drive links. Sixty DL worked until the chain stretched out and the saw ran out of adjustment and couldn't tension the chain properly. I have been using chain with 59 drive links. This does mean that there is one place with two cutters in a row on the same side. This has not caused any problems. I use a full chisel chain like the Oregon 72EXL059G. It goes through oak like butter.
There is a guy named Leon who posts here and has a lot of helpful videos on Youtube. Well worth watching. He also has a website and sells parts for old Homelites, usually cheaper than on Ebay. Also has manuals and parts diagrams for the old saws.
Have fun. These old saws are all metal and won't melt like my plastic Husqvarana.
I have 2 1/2 XL12s. The first thing I checked was the compression. Don't try to turn the engine over until you remove the muffler and clean out the carbon from the port. Little bits of carbon can score the piston, rings, or cylinder and ruin perfectly good ones. They are hard to find and expensive. Cheaper Chinese knock offs are available. The Xl12 I rebuilt has 125 psi of compression and runs just fine. The one I am not rebuilding has only 90 psi. Rebuild would be too expensive.
Next I checked for spark. I had none. New points and condenser later it has good spark.
Check the crankcase pressure and vacuum. The saw won't run right unless they are good. See leon's video on it. You may want to put new crankshaft seals in just because the ones in there are at least 40 years old.
After that it's the normal stuff, clean all the oily sawdust out so it cools properly and put in a carb kit and spark plug. My XL12 uses a Champion CJ6.
Post by rarefish383 on Mar 26, 2022 13:24:31 GMT -5
I have a 1968 Blue and White XL12. One of my favorite small saws. It's manual oiler only. Our rule of thumb was you run out of oil the same time you run out of fuel, and we never burnt up a bar. On the Supers with auto oilers we still always bought saws with the manual pump also. You can't give them too much oil, you can give them too little.