|
|
Post by lunar on Feb 19, 2022 20:12:28 GMT -5
Like the title said I just got a super ez. I need some help getting it running. It's got spark compression and the carb is getting fuel but I can't get the darn thing to stay running. I've got my hot and cold set to 1 turn and idle is set at 1.5. I can get it to fire up once for about 10 seconds but then it will die and have to wait about an hour for it to start again. When I do get it running it bogs down when I pull the throttle. Yall got any advice for me as this is my first homelite?
|
|
|
|
Post by edju1958 on Feb 19, 2022 20:54:53 GMT -5
Your needle settings can vary from one saw to the next.Try turning your lo screw out another 1/4 turn & see what happens.You may also need to turn your idle screw in some too,try another half turn in.Your settings are not hot & cold,they are hi & lo.They should be marked on the needle grommet.
|
|
|
|
Post by stillsawing on Feb 20, 2022 9:17:42 GMT -5
Time to restore the fuel system, should not require much time. A new filter, and fuel line seems to be a good place to start. Rebuilding the carb would be a smart choice. Take a moment to search out one of Leons videos that apply to fixing problems with the Super EZ. Good luck and enjoy owning a great saw.
|
|
|
|
Post by lunar on Feb 20, 2022 13:09:43 GMT -5
Thank you guys. Fuel line and filter are good, I did find the fuel cap vent was clogged fixed that and now it will fire but die almost immediately. I'm gonna get a carb kit ordered. I opened it up and it didn't look like it had gunk in it but I'll just pull it farther apart. I'll keep yall updated.
|
|
|
|
Post by stillsawing on Feb 21, 2022 9:35:10 GMT -5
Gunk and varnish are one enemy. Age and alcohol attacks the metering diaphragm and the fuel pump, they need to be flexible. Once they stiffen and resist movement, you've lost the ability to deliver fuel properly. Leon has diagrams for your carb on his site, shows the correct order and placement of the internal parts. Take your time, get it right, and you will master it.
|
|
|
|
Post by lunar on Feb 21, 2022 23:45:54 GMT -5
Gunk and varnish are one enemy. Age and alcohol attacks the metering diaphragm and the fuel pump, they need to be flexible. Once they stiffen and resist movement, you've lost the ability to deliver fuel properly. Leon has diagrams for your carb on his site, shows the correct order and placement of the internal parts. Take your time, get it right, and you will master it. I've read that name alot on the forum does he have an account or is everyone referencing an external site? |
|
|
|
Post by undee70ss on Feb 22, 2022 6:41:53 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by onlyhomelites on Feb 24, 2022 9:19:19 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by lunar on Feb 26, 2022 0:45:56 GMT -5
So I just finished rebuilding the carb. Deffinatly more consistent on the start up but still only getting just a few seconds of run time before it stalls out. I did notice though that it is flooding the carb/air cleaner compartment. The rebuild came with 2 different gaskets for the float needle side. I put the more restrictive one in do yall think that could be causing my issue?
|
|
|
|
Post by onlyhomelites on Feb 26, 2022 21:01:57 GMT -5
It sounds like the fuel inlet lever is set a bit high and not allowing the needle to seat. I'd lower it a bit.
|
|
