Thread Lock Compounds

[charliec]

Hi,

Just wondering, has anyone used either Permatex 24024 or Loctite 222 ( Purple color vs. blue or red).  This is suppose to be about 1/2 the holding power and requires much less force to remove vs. the blue version but with the same anti-vibration resistance which in my opinion is a good thing on a chainsaw.    

I was thinking of using this purple version on the carb and basically any screw/nut I remove/adjust multiple times a year.  For example, the last nut on each end of the crankshaft (clutch and flywheel side) so I can clean all the hidden sawdust and junk that accumulates over the year and inspect parts in general (i.e. maintenance).  I might even use it on all the nuts and screws vs. the blue during a restoration ( i.e. total tear down).  A few of my friends use this purple version on their rifle scopes and their automotive carbs ( i.e., 60's/70's muscle cars/ mid life crisis purchases... the good old days) and they say it is great. 

The manufacturer's websites say it is good for screws up to 1/4" and has an operational temp range is -65 through 300 degrees F.

A small 6 ml. tube runs the same cost of the blue version at about $8.00.

Any thoughts/comments?

[w30bob]

Hi Charlie,

We use a lot of Locktite with our military equipment. I'll just throw a few thoughts out there, as everyone has their own opinion on the subject. First, Loctite owns Permatex, so they're the same company. Depending on the material the bolt is made out of and the material that you're threading it into.....you may need an activator for certain types of threadlocker....so just check the packaging. Aluminum and magnesium typically need an activator as threadlocker is an anerobic compound. So without the activator where it's called for the threadlocker will take forever to dry. For the two you mention, with steel bolts into aluminum....you'd need to look a their website to see if you need an activator or not.

Red Loctite is a no-no unless you really never plan to take it apart. Can be really nasty stuff to undo. As for putting threadlocker on the bolts you mention....my take on that is if the manufacturer didn't feel the need to use a threadlocker originally......why would you need to use it now? The downside is when you do take things apart you have to make sure you clean both sets of thread really well to get all the old threadlocker out before you reassemble. Shouldn't be a lot of work, but it is more work than if you didn't use it in the first place.

So bottom line is using threadlocker as you propose won't do any harm.......but not sure if you'll see any benefit either. Nothing ventured, nothing gained I guess. It'll be interesting to see what other's take on this subject will be. Great post!

regards,
bob

[charliec]

Thanks for the response... I totally agree with your comment about the red thread lock. Personally, I have only used the red stuff once on an automotive engine mount and I even ended up regretting using it there. I had to use a torch on it to break it free a couple years later when the engine blew.

I watched a video from Leon the other day and from what I gathered, Homelite did use a thread lock type product on many of the saws but not all and then on only certain screws (e.g., gas tank to crank case mounting screws). I have no idea why that was/is( i.e. some saws yes, some saws no) but maybe someone has the answer. Great info about the potential need for an activator depending on the metals in question.

I want to thank you for your military service.

[blythkd]

Personally, I wouldn't use anything less than 242 (blue). It holds well and I've never had issues getting screws back out even when they'd been hit pretty hard with it. I've even used lots of 271 (red) on screws in mag cases with no issues either. It's all about how much of it use. If you soak a 10-32 screw in red loctite and screw it into a mag housing, it might need heated up to remove. But just put a small drop on the end of the screw, install in a clean hole and it will hold well and come back out without heat too.

[stillsawing]

Blue and red are all I use, more of the red when reassembling my saws. Just a drop or two on the first threads, never have had any problem with a disassemble chore. I have seen a red material on the threads of later year Homelite products, again no problem with breaking the bond. 

[charliec]

First off, thanks for the responses/comments.

Given the feedback, here is my plan (baby steps):

(Purple thread lock) I will use the purple on the really small screws (e.g., carb) that if they get stuck are a real pain to remove and they have a tendency to "bugger-up" the head with too much force if the screw driver does not fit perfectly or your screw driver position is not perfectly aligned with the screw head. Many people may say "why bother", well from my experience the older things get ( e.g., 42 year old saw)the more support is needed (e.g., my body).. ha!

(Blue Thread lock) This will become my mainstay but only 1 or 2 drops on the very tip/end that I remove on an occasional basis for maintenance as listed in my previous comments. In addition, if it is a nut/screw that I do not plan to remove on a regular basis, I will put 3 or 4 drops of blue on the threads (e.g., mag body panels deep in the saw (e.g., gas tank to crankcase)).

(Red thread lock) While I respect the comments from the two 5 star members that commented on this topic, I am not yet ready to use the red stuff. This product no matter how limited its use (i.e. one drop) scares the "%^$#" out of me. Perhaps one day I will try it but as long as the blue works (i.e. varying amounts, 1 - 4 drops), I am leaving this red product out of my toolbox.

Thanks again.

Charlie

P.S., Please feel free to add more comments as learning is a never ending endeavor.