Best Cleaner/Degreaser to Preserve Original Paint

[w30bob]

Hi Guys,

  I could probably figure this out by a long trial and error method, and ruin some nice original painted parts in the process.........but figured you guys have already figured this one out.  I've been buying decent (definitely not mint) original Homelite saws to play with/restore.  I prefer to keep the paint original if it's in decent shape and there's enough of it, before deciding to restore or not, which is what this question is about.  I tend to favor buying saws that are nice and greasy, covered in a nice black layer of grease and grime, as it tends to preserve everything and looks like shit to the person selling it, and others bidding on it, so the price stays low.  And when I remove it the paint is usually in great shape underneath, and there's no rust to deal with on the steel parts. 

  My question is what's the safest (ie, easiest on the original paint) cleaner or degreaser to use to remove the grime without destroying the paint?  I've been using light oil on a rag, which doesn't hurt the paint, but is a slow and tedious process if the grime is dried and hard from being on there for decades.  Brake parts cleaner is much faster, but I'm not confident it won't screw something up.  I won't try the harsh stuff, like Purple Power or anything chlorinated, so I'm wondering what you use...........or what you recommend I don't use, so I can eliminate those from the mix.    

thanks,
bob

[tangobravo]

Any foaming engine de-greasing  removal spray should work effectively and safely. Check your local parts store. Maybe light high pressure washing with water after that should finish cleaning it well and preserve the painted surfaces. Avoid any solvent/oil based product.

[ronaldt]

I've had good luck with penetrating fluid like WD-40.

[blythkd]

X2 on the WD40. Years ago we used to have kerosene in the parts washer and it was fine. My parts washer has mineral spirits in it now which is ok too but could be a little rough on paint and graphics. So I pretty much switched to WD40 several years ago when I started buying it by the gallon. I like it but yes, it's a bit tedious on a rag, takes lots of elbow grease sometimes on a really grimy one.

[w30bob]

Awesome........thanks guys!!

bob

[sparky]

I use foaming engine cleaner. Hose it off to find the stuck on goo and hit that with a plastic bristle brush. Spray it again with cleaner and rinse. Usually it cleans em up and compressed air gets the nooks and crannys.

[MI Old Saw]

I have been deep cleaning saws for a couple months now, and the auto oilers especially are always filthy. I use no water at all, but it is a very time consuming, hands on disassembly and cleaning. I use primarily compressed air, and then use WD40 to loosen anything that is really stuck on. Then it is a wipe/pick activity. I use arts & crafts poly pics to avoid paint damage, but do have dental picks for the tough/tiny spots. I then wipe all painted and bare surfaces with Penetrol and let that cure for 48 hours. For adhesive removal or some of the ususualy mystery substances, I use Goof Off (NOT GooGone). You need to be quick with it, however, as it will take paint if you're not careful.

[w30bob]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the info. Apparently there's more than one way to skin this cat. I've been trying things, and the WD40 seems to work well on the grime that's not decades old. The grease and grime that's 20,30,50 years old seems almost impenetrable without breaking out the strong stuff. Regardless, it looks like there's no quick and easy way to remove what Father Time has put on in half a century. Without destroying 'not the greatest' original paint. I've learned when something doesn't work the way I expect it's better to just set it aside and think and do research before using something that will cause irreparable damage.......something I never would have even considered doing in my youth. Live and learn, I guess. Thanks again for the tips.........and keep 'em coming.......it's all good info!!

regards,
bob

[w30bob]

Hi Guys,

A little update. So I took your advice and have been using WD-40. On the first couple saws it didn't work well......it just didn't do anything, and I kept asking myself what were those guys talking about......this stuff doesn't remove any dirt or grime. But then I put some on a part of a pretty dirty saw and had to walk away to do something. I came back 10 minutes later and it had mostly dried, but not completely. When I wiped it with a rag......it worked great!! So...time is the key. If you've tried WD and it didn't do much........the trick is to let it sit for a few minutes and penetrate the crud you're trying to remove. Then it works really well and is forgiving on paint and decals. Flaking paint will flake off no matter what, but any paint well stuck stays stuck. I find compressed air works well in certain situations.....but there's a fine line between blowing off dirt and grime.......and blowing off paint. Best to start with the air pressure set low and work your way up, rather than the other way around. But I'm happy to report the WD-40 suggestion was a good one......just let it sit for a bit first. Thanks guys!

;O)
bob

[blackimaje]

I am restoring a 1979 super auto xl and I have been using simple green and it seems to work pretty good and it's bio so I don't mind getting it all over or worry about the pets or even using it in the kitchen sink (although the stuff it takes off is a different story )