SEZ flooding motor

[1001projex]

Super EZAO rebuilt from ground up. 1st time start up from rebuild and started blowing fuel out the muffler. Blows fuel back out the choke into the air box. Unable to get this thing to idle. Saw floods regardless of original carburetor or rebuilt one installed. Set carb to factory specs with no luck. Checked reeds, all good. Saw DOES run but crappy. Fowls plug. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Matt

[onlyhomelites]

Welcome to HOH! It sounds like the carb is flooding quickly...I'd guess the fuel inlet lever is set a bit high or the diaphragm is one of the aftermarket ones with the metal nub that's a bit too tall. Were you able to pressure test the carburetor?

[okie]

Do you hve means to pressure test the carb?

[1001projex]

Yes I am able to test the carburetor. I pumped 15psi into it. Very slowly leaked off. Shot carb with Windex. Gasket was leaking out top of carb. Fixed that and leak slowed down next to nothing. Originally I set the metering lever without a gasket a hair under my steel straight rule. This is what my research has told me. This is why I'm out of options that I know of. I might try another carburetor. I have many. Thanks for your response. Any other suggestions, I will gladly take them. Way to much time, effort and money to admit defeat.

[kevinm1980]

We're you using the walbro tool?? If not gasket or not would not make a difference, just flush with top of metering chamber

[1001projex]

Not Walbro tool. Two hoses, a guage, and a pump bulb. Okay thanks. Might go in and verify metering lever adjustment, and diaphragm button size.

[okie]

If you have other KNOwn carbs, do the swap.
Them little Walbro's have some internal check valves that are normally un-serviceable, but I've tested and replaced them. You can find info about checking and replacing the internal check valves on-line, think I seen it on you tube or a Leons. Their are also at least two different types/sizes of check valves and you have to dig into yours FIRST to see which one you have before just spending $10 and getting the wrong one and buying a carb from flea bay is also a roll of the dice.
I'll see if I have a link to testing and replacing the check valve, but right now you need to confirm that a know good carb will get a good run.
I feel your pain about swapping carb's, I've even had to remove a know good carb from another saw just to confirm that I was dealing with a bac carb. Them little Walbro's look like they could be repaired by Ronnie Milsap, but they can be a real pain sometimes.
Yes, about those diaphragm buttons. Look at your old button  close and compare it too the replacement. Quite common for replacements to be longer or wrong one. If longer the carb will flood even with the metering lever set correctly.

[1001projex]

Okay great! I will be watching this thread if you can pop in anymore info. Thanks so much for your assistance. Looks like I'm going back in.......again.

[onlyhomelites]

Okay, here's a few videos that may help...

Check Valve Test: youtu.be/8sV35OCH3ZE

Aftermarket Diaphragm "Nub" Issue: www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLx0tQaBA6w

Circuit Plate Gasket Discussion: youtu.be/fcwTadYYiz8

And the Full HDC rebuild video: youtu.be/n16qcMctvnw

[1001projex]

Gotum! I will check these out asap. Working the next two nights. Probably this weekend. I will let you know.

[okie]

Need to do a carb swap first with a known good carb.
AND
it sure makes a guy feel weak UPSTAIRS to work on one for several days and eventually determine it WAS a bad spark plug. YOU WON'T EVER FORGET SUCH WHEN IT HAPPENS TO YOU.
Them little plugs especially if it's a Champion can let you down at any time. (how do I know this one)

[1001projex]

LOL, I hear that loud and clear. Saw fires right up. Runs crappy and unable to tune in. Fuel blowing everywhere. Hot spark. Plenty of power.This is playing havic with my "upstairs".

[1001projex]

Finally had a chance to work on this here SEZ. I watched the vids that were recommended. Then I got to work. I reinspected the carb. Tested the check valve (it works!)Checked the nub. It was pretty short. Matched my other carburetor. Filed it down anyway. Readjusted the metering lever. Downloaded a copy of the owner's manual and followed that for the final carburetor needle adjustments and......she runs! Good too. Cut my first tree with it just now. The only small issue is she loads up on idle and eventually stalls. I think the carb is a little rich. Other then that she's golden. I really want to thank you guys for all of your help and input. It was greatly appreciated.

[okie]

You say it loads up when idling. If turning in the Idle jet just little bit !/8-!/4 turn) does not cure, do a tilt test.
turn the saw upside down and sideways while it's idling and see if it stalls or changes.

Also if you have not already done so, check the 4 1/2inch jug nuts and make sure they are good and snug. If you have to turn any a 1/2 turn to get tight the jug gasket is suspect.
To get to one of them jug nuts you have to thin out a 12 point 1/2 inch box end wrench.

[1001projex]

It's very inconsistent. I did do the tilt test. Sometimes it changes and other times it does not and runs fine. It seems that I need to keep adjusting the carburetor to keep it going. Then a few minutes longer it is ideling to high and I need to readjust. I thought that I just haven't hit the sweet spot yet. The gasket is new.

[okie]

Are you sure you got the 4 jug screws very snug? (all 4)
Did you say you have a KNOW GODD CARB on another saw?

I've seen them little carb's do just what you indicate. Very confusing and aggravating.

Do you see any gas appearing in the airbox while you are testing and running the saw?

[okie]

I've felt your pains. (on them little fellers)

Sometimes I just set one in the back corner for a few days and let it rest and cool off while I go do something else and re-group for a flogging later. Some days just go better than others.

Patience is your friend.

Have a nice New Years and 

Stay Safe.

[1001projex]

Yes, all 4 screws are tight. There was a very minute amount of fuel in the air box this time. The massive flooding is gone.I wonder if that stinking nub is still causing issues. When saw was apart, I checked crankcase bearings and seals. There was zero play in the bearings and the seals looked to be in great shape. I have around 7 sez carbs but 5 are unverified and 6th one is on another saw and I'm working on the 7th. I know what you're gonna say.

[okie]

I won't say what you think I'm going to say, but couple more hints:
Couple other things to watch out for: (from experience with the EZ's)

Gas in air box is not a good thing. It's a hint of something amiss. Most generally every time I see such the saw is won't run correct.

Crank Seals LOOK ok to the eyeballing, you say.

Are you test running the saw with the bar on and chain tensioned?
A hint of a leaking clutch side seal is the saw will get more erratic if you install the bar and tension the chain or remove the chain and it's not quite as erratic idling and running.
I've seen this on the EZ's and the crank bearing still be ok but the old dry clutch side seal leaks MORE as the chain is tensioned and the chain whipping around the bar will move the crank just enough to cause a upsetting leak and oil on the seal surface changing. (due to being old and starting to dry out, the sealing lip also worn.
To confirm a leaking clutch seal after seeing this chain tensioning hint, remove the clutch so the seal can be seen, inject not over 5 psi into the crankcase and slowly rotate the crank using soap water to verify leak. This seal can be removed and replaced with care without taking the crankcase apart.
The saw will also be intermittent erratic idling during tilt tests when the seal first starts intermittently/erratically leaking.

[1001projex]

Put the known "good" carburetor on it and now it won't start at all. So mad. I can't get it running. I don't know how to pressurize the cylinder.