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Post by slk on Oct 28, 2021 14:39:44 GMT -5
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Post by sparky on Oct 28, 2021 15:49:47 GMT -5
In my humble opinion it is well worth the $50 based on the condition in the photos. It has several good points being recoil assy appears undamaged,good handle bar and grip,bar is shiny not rusted and still has majority of paint and decal on recoil.it would be a nice addition to any collection.
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Post by ronaldt on Oct 28, 2021 16:27:04 GMT -5
I agree with sparky. That's a great deal. The only thing I see missing is the spark plug cover but they are fairly easy to find. I might have an extra. Homelite did make a super ez but it was about 14-15 years later than this one and much smaller.
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Post by edju1958 on Oct 28, 2021 17:35:07 GMT -5
I agree with the other 2 gents who posted here,ther saw is in great shape for it's age.Yes,Homelite kinda overdid it with the EZ thing.There was the original EZ (which you almost have),an EZ6,another smaller 38cc EZ,& the SEZ (Super EZ).
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Post by slk on Oct 28, 2021 20:09:21 GMT -5
Well I am going to pick it up on Saturday morning. Will post some good pics when I get it.
Thanks Much Steve
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Post by stillsawing on Oct 28, 2021 20:31:20 GMT -5
Pretty nice condition for a saw that's 60+ years old. Getting spark restored can be as simply as filing the points. Considering its shape, 50 buck sound fair.
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Post by slk on Oct 28, 2021 23:10:53 GMT -5
Does anyone here have a link to a manual for the EZ
Steve
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Post by Jarhead ☠ on Oct 29, 2021 19:28:44 GMT -5
I really like my EZ-6
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Post by Jarhead ☠ on Oct 29, 2021 19:35:50 GMT -5
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Post by slk on Oct 30, 2021 13:05:22 GMT -5
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Post by edju1958 on Oct 30, 2021 13:38:05 GMT -5
Before you go cutting the old fuel line off make sure you can get a new one.If it's just a generic line,then by all means go for it.That saw looks damn nice! If you need parts always try Leon first,but if you run into problems with hiom not having what you need your next option is to call Bob Johnson.Bob has so much Homelite stuff it isn't funny & it goes back a long way too.
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Post by slk on Oct 30, 2021 14:15:16 GMT -5
An old timer logger told me that back in the day the first thing they would do is take the muffler off and throw it in the woods. How true that is is anyone's guess. I guess at this point I probably do not need one to get it running. Pretty sure my next step is to remove the carb and clean it if possible. As far as the gas line from the valve to that plastic piece on the bottom...What is the best way to remove it. I have a heat gun but hate to get that close to gas.. It is as hard as a rock. I do not think it is anything special. Looks to be 1/4" clear tubing.
Steve
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Post by Jarhead ☠ on Oct 30, 2021 15:47:03 GMT -5
So Steve did you download the IPL? You can remove the intake elbow and remove the 3 screws that hold the carb and reed block on but be aware of the location of the governor rod holes. Fuel line if it's stiff can be sliced w/ a razor near the fuel inlet nipples. You'll probably need to check the fuel tank line and filter too. The carb kit should be a Tillotson RK88HL
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Post by slk on Oct 30, 2021 16:41:20 GMT -5
So Steve did you download the IPL? You can remove the intake elbow and remove the 3 screws that hold the carb and reed block on but be aware of the location of the governor rod holes. Fuel line if it's stiff can be sliced w/ a razor near the fuel inlet nipples. You'll probably need to check the fuel tank line and filter too. The carb kit should be a Tillotson RK88HL Yes I did. That is a parts diagram file..I have had the carbs off of other homelite models. Lets hope this one is similar. I have not really dove into this project yet. Was hoping to get lucky. If I tear into it I need to have a clean area to work. I will have to clean my bench. What spark plug does this model use. There were 2 plugs that came with the saw. Champion J8J and a Champion RJ8C. Neither of which I do not think would have come with the saw. Steve
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Post by Jarhead ☠ on Oct 30, 2021 18:38:15 GMT -5
The J6 sparkplug so possibly the J8
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Post by slk on Oct 30, 2021 19:41:39 GMT -5
With this EZ model is it necessary to remove the gas tank to get the carb off? I can see the 3 screws for the carb and the intake screws. I will take note of the gov rod position. Should I be able to get the carb off at that point?
Thanks Steve
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Post by sparky on Oct 31, 2021 12:31:18 GMT -5
Well,the muffler really doesn't muffle much. All it is was a piece of perforated screen with 1/8"diameter holes. If they aren't missing its usually burnt to a crisp.
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Post by slk on Oct 31, 2021 13:43:25 GMT -5
Ok guys I have the carb off. Boy was it gummed up The carb is a HL1A. The diaphragm was so stiff it felt like a solid piece of cardboard. The gasket on the reed valve stuck and got torn, so I guess i need one of those as well as a carb kit. Does anyone know what the high speed needle and low speed should be turned out to.
Steve
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Post by slk on Nov 1, 2021 15:11:01 GMT -5
Found the needle settings Low 3/4-1.....High 1-1 1/4.. Good start anyways. Got the carb kit on order from Leon....Gas line hose appears to be 1/4". I am going to use urethane line. At least you can see through it.
Steve
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Post by slk on Nov 4, 2021 13:56:34 GMT -5
Ok guys I have the kit in and everything is buttoned up. New gas line in. It does at least want to start/fire now. Only wants to run about 2 seconds at best, but it is a start. I have the low speed out about 7/8 turn and the high 1 turn. I have not put a new plug in yet, and I know that could be my problem. Any suggestions
Steve
Update: Put a new plug in and it ran longer but died down. Does anyone have a diagram of what order the gaskets go on the carb? I put them back on just how they were. I only had to use 3 of the 4 sent.
Update again: I for sure had the 2 gaskets that go together on ass backwards. I started to second guess the order so I took the carb off and I had found that I had a senior moment on the first try. So the saw is up and running pretty darned good and I will fine tune it later.....
Steve
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