XL2 carb question (HDC)

[crosstalk]

Hi. New poster here. I got a non-running XL2 for free so I decided to see if I can get it running. Found this board and read a lot of posts to learn the ins and outs of this old saw. I found the carb plugged with dirt, air filter turned to dust, fuel tank duckbill missing, and oil tank duckbill disintegrated. Cleaned the carb a bit to see if the saw would run. Runs pretty well now (no new parts yet), but can't dial in the L adjustment so well. No H adjustment. The carb and intake gaskets were stuck and tore a bit so that could be the problem. My question has to do with the L needle--it looks like someone may have damaged the seat in the carb body by overtightening it. Attached is a photo under the microscope of the needle and the seat (body of carb). It looks too damaged to me, but I'm not an expert. The needle itself seems ok. Any opinions on this? Thank you--I'm wondering if I need to get a new carb before I address the gaskets and duckbills.

Also, this saw is model: XL 2 AUTO, serial: 31312674. How old is it?

Attachments:

[okie]

Really cannot answer your ? about the seat damage from the pic.

You really have to be careful about carb replacing, they are not all plug and play for the XL2's even though the look close.
I would probably throw a kit at the existing carb first. I can see the screen filter appears clogged or dirty.
If you do not have a USonic cleaner just use some hot water or spray carb cleaner.
Keep a heads up when replacing lines around them oiler systems, very easy to get the new lines connected wrong. Make yourself a good reference drawing map and take some close up pictures.

Usually easier to keep a eye and ear open for a donor parts saw so as to keep from getting more $$'s into those they they are worth in parts. Duckbills, gas cap seals, then maybe a chain and bar and still not a reliable saw.
Just speaking from experience, but they are also a good learner saw.
I get my donor saws at garage sales and trash dumps.

[crosstalk]

Thank you for the reply and information. Yeah, I am reluctant to start ordering parts from ebay or wherever for this saw. I was hoping you could zoom-in on the attachment and see what I'm talking about on the L seat. I agree about the screen on the check valve--might remove the clip and screen to clean it. Didn't want to spray cleaner on the check valve--don't have a replacement.

[okie]

Tried the zoom. still no go???
If the needle is still good and not major seat damage the L adjust might still adjust ok but would be not same as OEM setting for turns out and little more critical to adjust. (only very small jet needle movement needed to make major changes in the Idle setting due to the seat taper being larger)
Before I got a USonic cleaner I just used 50/50 mix of white vinegar and hot water.
Leave the small engine carb in the mix for about 15 min and then use low pressure air over the exterior and do not direct inject any air into any of the passages, then back into the mix for another 30 min and air blow again. Direct injection of air into the passages can damage things and blow out welch plugs. Spray can type carb cleaners usually won't damage check valves in carb's because they are not that aggressive like the acid carb cleaners. You can also use the small tube on the spray can carb cleaner and direct inject the passages.
THEN do a spoonful of baking soda into some water and soak for couple minutes and just brush the soda mix onto the carb so as to neutralize the previous vinegar soak. (vinegar is a acid and baking soda will stop the vinegar action)

What is nice about a heated USonic mix is I sometimes just toss a complete carb in the US for a presoak before taking apart with hot water and the gaskets can sometimes be re-used and sometimes not even a kit needed.

I sometimes go over to Leons site and look at parts just to get an idea of the prices and options for parts of what fits what, etc.

[crosstalk]

Thanks again. In my browser, if I click on the attachment photo it goes full screen and then click again for zoom. I have an ultrasonic cleaner, but I'm not sure it's powerful enough to clean a cube carb like this. I didn't want to damage anything with the cleaner as I have had rubber swell with brake clean/carb cleaner before. It doesn't seem like a kit is needed--the parts look pretty good. I do need to get it cleaner though--it was really plugged with dirt and wouldn't pump fuel until I opened it up and got the major dirt out.

[okie]

Yes, I tried the zoom thing.

Yes your US is a good thing.
If you have a small US just do a 50/50 mix of vinegar and water and preheated hot water mix is best, run it about 15-30 min even if the US is too small for the carb just rotate the carb to get mix coverage and then the baking soda neutrazizer is just mixed and brushed on at the last.
I have some purple power concentrated cleaner from O'reillys that I use in my larger US but the vinegar mix works great for small carbs. Your just have to neutralize with baking soda afterwards to stop the vinegar acid action.
The very hot water at about 165F really helps. You may not even have to remove the carb filter using hot water and low air.

I lived with a small US for long time before I got a larger unit.
If yours does not have a water heat function just use very hot preheated water and vinegar.
If you don't have access to low pressure air just use running warm water from a faucet as a rinse.
Check the in tank fuel filter also. It is usually not as fine a filter as the carb filter is why the carb screen or filter clogs.
If the gas tank has magnesium powder or is shedding white magnesium grit it will get past the in tank filter and clog the carb filters. I've seen some gas tank grow a mold from being stored dry and it will clog carb really fast. Gas tank must be very clean of fine mold and white magnesium grit particles.
Do you have access to low pressure air from a air tank and blow gun. Not over 20 psi for blowing air at the carb not direct injection?

[crosstalk]

I think the carb will fit in my ultrasonic. It's not heated as you pointed out I will have to add hot water. I have an air compressor and blow gun, but I usually use a small regulator for low pressure work. The fuel tank is plastic on this saw--it was missing the fuel filter and has lots of varnish and junk in the tank.

I probably need to cut some new gaskets for the carb and intake and see if that changes anything. The intake gasket in particular was super stuck and tore when it finally gave way.

[onlyhomelites]

Well I can unfortunately see the damage when zoomed in, but I've seen this before and worse believe it or not! Whether this is the issue or not depends on how deep the damage goes, but the broken, uneven surface is not conducive to fine tuning. The screen pictured is the main nozzle & check valve assembly; if the saw runs and revs at higher speeds, the screen likely isn't plugged, but a trip through the cleaner can't hurt. If you haven't tested the check valve yet, here's a short video that details the easy way: youtu.be/8sV35OCH3ZE
If the diaphragms are good, the check valve is good and the carb holds pressure, then the problem is either that low needle seat or not in the carburetor at all.

FWIW I don't think the gaskets are you problem; I run a lot of saws with gaskets in the condition you are describing and the saws are fine. Unless a chunk is missing somewhere, the materials is tout enough that it goes back together pretty damned well in these applications.

A few other possibilities:

1. While the saw was running, did you do the tip test to check for back crank seals? It can be frustrating when you're trying to tackle two problems at once.
2. What is the compression of the saw? Anything under 110-115 is the danger zone for reliability and smooth running, especially at idle.
3. If you haven't checked out the ignition system yet, make sure the points & coil are gapped properly and the spark plug is good

Good luck!

[crosstalk]

Thank you. I had a feeling the seat was damaged. Thanks for your opinion on it. I already removed the gasket fragments and am in the process of fitting new ones so once I get that done I will do a compression check and follow your other suggestions. Thanks again.