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Post by keknw8 on Aug 15, 2021 16:56:20 GMT -5
on this Homelite 150 UT104004 i'm working on trying to get it up and running, i did some simple coil primary & secondary continuity testing with a MM and checked condenser capacity on old & new condenser. they were in the acceptable test values according to the 150 shop manual. obvioulsy i didn't have a Graham or Merc-o-Tronic test units. maybe a MM isn't sufficient in this case?
i see it isn't firing the new plug. i used a stens 750-018 ignition tester and it didn't show a spark either.
my electrical abilities are elementary at best so i don't know what else to test regarding getting the plug to spark so i think i need a new coil A-68649 & core A-68648 for the homelite 150 UT104004. any other recommendations?
are the coil & core always separate parts to buy and one has to put them together like i'm seeing on ebay? or can you get them already assembled?
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Post by Clasec on Aug 15, 2021 22:36:46 GMT -5
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Post by undee70ss on Aug 16, 2021 0:46:22 GMT -5
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Post by keknw8 on Aug 18, 2021 11:17:12 GMT -5
i saw something like this in the manual. i may try it. appreicate you posting it. a good point of failure tests.
then again, that post with the ignition conversion kit looks like a good option too.
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Post by keknw8 on Aug 18, 2021 11:42:30 GMT -5
this may be way to go but i haven't had any luck finding this conversion kit yet that were in stock. and it looks expensive, on some sites. and Leon's doesn't have one in stock, to bad as his price was doable!
i already replaced the electronics except for the coil and lead.
thanks for the tip!
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Post by blythkd on Aug 20, 2021 21:09:11 GMT -5
It appears I have that conversion kit. Let me know if you're interested and I'll try to lay my hands on it.
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Post by keknw8 on Sept 8, 2021 16:57:53 GMT -5
first, i'm getting the conversion kit.
in the meantime, let me ask this; since i wanted to check the coil & lead again that meant i needed to take the fuel side cover and starter off. in order to see if i could get a spark with those parts off, is it ok to put a socket on the rotor nut with a drill and give it a spin to see if a spark gets produced?
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Post by keknw8 on Oct 21, 2021 10:56:13 GMT -5
It appears I have that conversion kit. Let me know if you're interested and I'll try to lay my hands on it. regarding the conversion kit, i found one needs a different flywheel for this module. got any leads on where one might find one of thise for this saw? |
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okie
Saw Builder
Posts: 199
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Post by okie on Oct 21, 2021 13:26:56 GMT -5
first, i'm getting the conversion kit. in the meantime, let me ask this; since i wanted to check the coil & lead again that meant i needed to take the fuel side cover and starter off. in order to see if i could get a spark with those parts off, is it ok to put a socket on the rotor nut with a drill and give it a spin to see if a spark gets produced?I do such using a battery operated variable speed drill. I have a hex to 3/8 adapter to go from the drill chuck to the 3/8 drive socket. You will have to have the spark plug out (to reduce compression) and be sure a rotate the flywheel in the same direction as when it's rope pulled. If you find it produces good spark going in wrong direction someone has installed the wrong polarity flywheel. Also on some the flywheel nut will tend to want to loosen when spun in correct direction, therefore just get it good and snug and start the spin up slow. You need to do a good test of the points contact. I've had magneto coils test ok on a coil tester but not work installed, therefore I do not trust a mag tester. Use a ohmmeter and if points are good and no fire you most likely have a bad mag. It should produce some spark even with the cap disconnected. If you connect the cap and no fire the cap is leaking or shorted. Open cap (condenser) will just weaken the spark and sometimes saw will even start but not rev up and idle erratic. |
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Post by keknw8 on Oct 23, 2021 9:58:08 GMT -5
first, i'm getting the conversion kit. in the meantime, let me ask this; since i wanted to check the coil & lead again that meant i needed to take the fuel side cover and starter off. in order to see if i could get a spark with those parts off, is it ok to put a socket on the rotor nut with a drill and give it a spin to see if a spark gets produced?I do such using a battery operated variable speed drill. I have a hex to 3/8 adapter to go from the drill chuck to the 3/8 drive socket. You will have to have the spark plug out (to reduce compression) and be sure a rotate the flywheel in the same direction as when it's rope pulled. If you find it produces good spark going in wrong direction someone has installed the wrong polarity flywheel. Also on some the flywheel nut will tend to want to loosen when spun in correct direction, therefore just get it good and snug and start the spin up slow. You need to do a good test of the points contact. I've had magneto coils test ok on a coil tester but not work installed, therefore I do not trust a mag tester. Use a ohmmeter and if points are good and no fire you most likely have a bad mag. It should produce some spark even with the cap disconnected. If you connect the cap and no fire the cap is leaking or shorted. Open cap (condenser) will just weaken the spark and sometimes saw will even start but not rev up and idle erratic. good points & will be put to use soon as i'm waiting on replacement coil i ordered. thanks! |
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Post by keknw8 on Oct 25, 2021 15:13:20 GMT -5
It appears I have that conversion kit. Let me know if you're interested and I'll try to lay my hands on it. regarding the conversion kit, i found one needs a different flywheel for this module. got any leads on where one might find one of thise for this saw? nevermind: i called homelite and their tech said i didn't need a diff flywheel. |
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okie
Saw Builder
Posts: 199
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Post by okie on Oct 26, 2021 12:52:57 GMT -5
A hint that you have the WRONG magnetic polarity flywheel for your ign system is if you turn it bass ackerds with the drill and the spark is stronger your magnetic polarity is incorrect.
I can take a compass and check the magnetics polarity for N,S by sticking a nial or screwdriver to a magnetic and then use a compass. (if N pole of magnetic is attracted the magnet on flywheel being tested is S, etc)
Electronic ignition systems usually require a opposite polarity flywheel as compared to points ign. (on homelite saws.)
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