Not certain of the exact numbers, but I recall they have a little bit lower resistance on the primary and secondary windings than points coils. I can check mine tonight but primary 1-2 ohms and secondary 4k-5k ohms is probably ballpark.
God made the mountains, God made the sky, God made the people, god knows why
Have you considered replacing that blue coil of death with a more reliable $15 magneto coil?
Baking usually is not a permanent fix because moisture has entered the epoxy and the secondary windings has been carbon arcing.
You say you are not sure how much spark.
Are you indicating it won't start???
I've seen those blue mag's check out A ok on a ohmmeter but not operate on a saw. Really no need in doing a ohms test if you know the mag is bad??? correct operation on the engine is the real test. Also those blue coils of death have electronics inside that the ohmmeter will not detect and test.
The OHM Meter test not being reliable makes sense. Baking brought it back from no spark to some. The saw has other fuel issues, it starts and runs for a split second then dies, so the issue doesn't seem to be the coil. The fuel is a problem for another day. I would definitely consider a magneto coil if I knew which one to get and where I could get one. Would I be able to keep my original flywheel and just use the laminations from my existing coil? This process is new to me.
Thanks for your input Jon
CHAINSAWS: Super 2 14" Super 2 16" 240 330 360 550 EZ Super EZ XL "Little Red" XL-12 (2) Super XL Auto SXL "Old Blue" Super XL "Big Red" WIZ
In answer to your last question yes and yes. Briefly: The mod requires installing a $15 Anzac Mag coil onto your blue coil of death core laminations after you have removed the Anzac from it's core or you can use a Wico/Prestolite points coil lamination. (A Phelon coil lamination will not work, it's too fat. (and most of the bare cores you see around are for the Phelon as part number 68555) The spark plug wire is made into the Anzac mag and is too long so cut off the spark plug boot end and re-install the boot after you place the wire through the slot and cut to length. Set the air gap at specs, about .010. I removed the Anzac core by just using a padded jaws on a vise as backing and gently tapping out the core with a blunt round drift punch. Saw will really run good with this mod and is reliable if all else is correct.
Here is some links on this site to guys doing the mod and some of my notes.
I've installed a $15 Anzac 503901401 Module onto a EZ Blue coil A94111 coil core lamination and got a good run. I've also heard that a Stihl #0000 400 1300 Module can also be used on the Homelite Wico/Prestolite. The Anzac more user friendly to get off of the core and install onto the Homelite Wico/Prestolite cores. A Phelon 68555 core that you see for sale will not fit the Anzac mag, too fat. Of course this mod requires using the electronic Wico/Prestolite flywheel that has the N pole entering the module 1st when going CCW. The points ign flywheel has opposite polarity magnets and won’t work. I've heard rumors that some Phelon flywheels (rotors) can be used if the magnets are of the proper polarity. (because Homelite ran out of Wico flywheels and re-magnetized some Phelon flywheels to use with wico/prestolite coils on some of the EZ's FOR AWHILE) Note that the plug wire is made into these modules and will have to be cut due to being too long and needs to be installed so as to not melt due to heat. Cut the spark plug end and re-connect Some posts about such are at the House of Homelite website. The core lamination for the electronic module is same core from a Wico/Prestolite points ignition coil. If you do not have the friction retainer strap to secure the module in place you can epoxy the module in place or cut a piece of the proper length hose clamp from a stainless steel ¼ inch size adjustable fuel hose clamp.
Sorry for the long post above. I had to patch together some of my notes for you.
Once you get good spark from the above mod if the saw won't run good do a vacuum test of the crankcase. (Do a vac test before working on the carb. A good carb will not run correctly if the block has vac leaks.
Some good info on this Homie site also about how to bench test a EZ carb AND vacuum/pressure testing the crankcase.
About the above post: A electronic blue coil of death (some coils are white plastic and labeled Prestolite) is usually just a snug press fit onto their laminations core.
If a points type Wico/Prestolite coil lamination is going to be used for the Anzac electronic mod instead of using a electronic coil core, the Points type Wico/Prestolite magneto coils are usually epoxied glued to their laminations and not easily removed. Care must be taken not to bend and mutilate the lamination and the points coil itself will be completely sacrificed.