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Post by edju1958 on May 4, 2021 8:24:46 GMT -5
I've got 2 HS132A carbs that won't hold any pressure,one is brand new.The metering levers are set at the correct height & the needles are new.The seats are clean too.When I pump the pressurre up to 5-8 lbs.it just bleeds off quickly.I put them in water & bubbles come out of the vent hole on the pump cover.K tried different covers & it had no effect.Help needed please.
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Post by sweepleader on May 4, 2021 8:57:29 GMT -5
I would think the pump diaphragm is bad, strange that two carbs would have the same problem... The vent hole is just that, a vent, to allow the pump to work. Nothing should be connected to it.
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Post by edju1958 on May 4, 2021 9:17:02 GMT -5
Both carbs have new kits in them.
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Post by undee70ss on May 4, 2021 9:44:20 GMT -5
Try putting some fuel in them. I’ve had a few that wouldn’t hold pressure either until I put fuel in them.
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Post by onlyhomelites on May 4, 2021 22:51:46 GMT -5
If air is escaping through the vent hole in the inlet diaphragm cover, that implies several problems. One, the needle is obviously leaking...but that is simply an atmospheric vent hole to allow the diaphragm to move, as Dan already pointed out. If pressurized air is making it's way to that side of the diaphragm, it is leaking as well...not something you see very often.
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Post by edju1958 on May 5, 2021 7:20:06 GMT -5
When I put the carbs in water under pressure I have the .etering side cover off & there are no bubbles coming from the needle area.I think the check valve is not working.
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Post by onlyhomelites on May 5, 2021 7:57:24 GMT -5
The check valve isn't part of the pressurized system; it's designed to flow one direction (into the carb throat) and seal the other direction to prevent any engine pulses that make it past the reed from interrupting the carburetor circuit.
Where are the bubbles coming from?
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Post by edju1958 on May 6, 2021 21:49:33 GMT -5
As I stated earlier the bubbles are coming out of the vent hole on the pump cover.I just put another new needle,another new diaphragm,&another new pump cover in/on the carb & had absolutely no effect.I have the other carb soaking in the ultrasonic cleaner like I did with this one.I'll do the same with new parts on that one tomorrow.I need to get one of these carbs working to lut back on the 123.
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Post by edju1958 on May 6, 2021 21:50:43 GMT -5
As I stated earlier the bubbles are coming out of the vent hole on the pump cover.I just put another new needle,another new diaphragm,&another new pump cover in/on the carb & had absolutely no effect.I have the other carb soaking in the ultrasonic cleaner like I did with this one.I'll do the same with new parts on that one tomorrow.I need to get one of these carbs working to lut back on the 123. |
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Post by edju1958 on May 7, 2021 11:36:40 GMT -5
I pulled the carb from the ultrasonic cleaner & reassembled it with new parts & had the same results-still leaking.I'd like to disect them to find out why they continue to leak down.I've never had 2 carbs frustrate me more than these 2 do.If anyone knows of where I can send them to get repaired please let me know.I've already contacted VE Petersen & EC Carbs & they both told me they don't repair them.
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Post by onlyhomelites on May 8, 2021 10:03:42 GMT -5
Send them my way Ed, I'll take a look at them! A leak through the pump cover typically indicates an improper gasket or diaphragm, but it's hard say without seeing everything. Send me an email if you are interested.
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Post by edju1958 on May 8, 2021 17:26:59 GMT -5
Thanks Leon,these carbs are driving me batty!I can't send you an email till next week as my computer is in the shop.
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Post by onlyhomelites on May 17, 2021 7:49:57 GMT -5
Here's the painful process of getting to a simple solution!
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Post by edju1958 on May 17, 2021 9:00:19 GMT -5
Leon,now you can see why I was so baffled! I had an old guru tell me that it was possible that there might be a crack in the casting.I guess he wasn't off by too much in that there were imperfections in the casting.There must've been problems with the saw it was on from day one & that could possibly explain the low hrs.on the saw,an XL-123.Regardless,I'd like to thank you for resolving the carb problem from hell for me!
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Post by tangobravo on May 17, 2021 11:23:12 GMT -5
So this has come down to a faulty gasket material/sealing surface irregularity?? One thing that really impresses me on these Homelite chainsaws is that a well functioning carburetor is imperative to having a good running engine. First get the carburetor right- With your great video tips Leon!
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Post by edju1958 on May 17, 2021 19:33:18 GMT -5
I'd like to say that it's not just a Homelite saw that needs to hava a properly functioning carb,but ANY chainsaw must have a properly functioning carb.I've got the same problem with HS series carbs for Remington & Lombard saws.
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Post by xl130 on May 19, 2021 13:09:33 GMT -5
I actually have had problems with getting HS and SDC models to seal on the pump side fairly often. It’s a huge pain! Glad to see that your going to get that 123 up and running! I never see those saws up in Canada. Basically a XL130 with compression release?
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Post by edju1958 on May 19, 2021 13:26:32 GMT -5
this is actually my 2nd 123.I do have it running right now,buty not with the original carb.I have a Tilly HS125A in it right now & it's running pretty good,but I haven't taken it out cutting with the 125 carb on it.The 125 carb came on the 1st Pioneer Farmsaw I bought.
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Post by edju1958 on Jun 16, 2021 19:19:56 GMT -5
I know it's been a while since I posted here about these carbs.Today I finally had the time to put the HS132A carb that Leon worked on for me.I was tempted to do a pressure test on it,but I took his word that it was good to go.The saw fired on I think the 10th pull & needed some tuning,but the 123 runs like a champ! Thanks again Leon!
P.S.Now I started fiddling with what I believe is an XL-122 that I bought last yr.I'll start a new thread on that one.
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