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Post by jasonrkba on Apr 29, 2021 0:58:12 GMT -5
Im having a hard time getting the flywheel to break free. Id like to buy a pair of shoulder bolts to use on my puller. The threads are 3/16 32, is this what they call a number 10?
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on Apr 29, 2021 1:41:05 GMT -5
Correct, a 10-32 . I use some 10-32 carburetor bolts, washers, and a steering wheel puller . Pulled many flywheels and the Homelite bolts are super strong, haven't bent or broken any .
12-24 SXL-AO starter housing bolts for other flywheels.... SUPER XL-925, etc .
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Post by jasonrkba on May 23, 2021 18:35:40 GMT -5
Thank you, I did buy them and they worked perfectly.
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Post by jclark on May 25, 2021 12:30:38 GMT -5
Yes they are 10/32. I had the same issue last night on my 360. 2 screwdrivers between the flywheel and case plus double nuts on the end of the crank, a few good whacks with a hammer and it finally came loose. Jclark
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Post by jasonrkba on May 27, 2021 23:16:41 GMT -5
I've pulled hundreds. This was in the top 20 for toughest to get loose.
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Post by jasonrkba on May 27, 2021 23:20:28 GMT -5
Hundreds is exaggerating but definitely in the hundred range. It took the puller, heat and some kroil. Nice to have bolts for the next one though. I am going to make a puller like leon uses, he makes it look so easy with it.
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okie
Saw Builder
Posts: 199
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Post by okie on Jun 1, 2021 15:37:43 GMT -5
I've pulled lots of flywheels also. I do not like to use the pry and whack method own my own equipment. I like to use the whack method on Bro in Laws saws just for practice. Holding the flywheel up when it's whacked helps. (crankshaft is up ready for a whack if it has any end play)
I use a heavy duty steering wheel type puller on my Homies. A guy that pays attention to what he is doing will get a feel for pulling flywheels and also not twisting of bolts in other eq. Some people just don't have a feel for such or know how to feel for such, they like to use impact drivers and big wrenches so as to get more leverage. Every once in awhile I have to take a propane torch and warm the area of the flywheel just out from the crank stub. Aluminum expands faster than steel and heat cool is your friend on the tough ones. When warming something like this when you first spit on it and it spits back it does not need to be any warmer. Also do not leave lube on the crank or flywheel taper when going back together. (these are machined for friction fit and the flywheel key is just to set (hold) the flywheel timing correctly)
Lowes sometimes carries grade 5 and grade 8 standard and metric in their hardware assortment of a size needed. (for use with a puller)
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kennyw
Collector wannabe
Posts: 15
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Post by kennyw on Jun 2, 2021 8:56:00 GMT -5
I put a little pressure behind the flywheel then apply vibration with a pneumatic chisel with blunt tip. They always come off.
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Post by Brennan on Jun 14, 2021 21:54:45 GMT -5
Brass or copper swing press is my preferred method. Hold the sly wheel in one hand and with the nut loosely on give it a good rap. They almost always come free, if not heat and beat
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