SEZ tank leak @ seam

[bamaboilermaker]

Last year i rebuilt an early SEZ and got her running very nice.  After the dial in, i left it sitting on my bench.  The next day, it was sitting in a puddle of gas.  Clearly it had a hole somewhere in the tank.  I dumped gas out and let it sit for a while (not wanting to tear it down again)

Jump forward to yesterday, knowing that i had a spare tank from a parts saw, i went ahead and stripped the saw and removed tank.  I filled tank with water and pressurized, leak was coming from the seam to the oil tank.

I then looked at my spare tank, almost zero paint left on the outside, cosmetically much worse than the leaking tank.  I opened the cap and found it FULL of white death.  Actually it was worse than any other tank i have seen.

Questions as to next step:
Option 1:  try to apply gas resistant RTV to the leaky tank from the outside to seal it up
Option 2:  reseal leaky tank with tank sealant
Option 2B:  split tank halves and reseal with RTV
Option 3:  Try to clean out white death from spare tank

Did some quick internet searches for best way to remove mag corrosion.  It seams like lots of opinions (vineger, acetone, BBs, dimes, nuts, etc)  What method do you all suggest?  If i go with option 3, this saw will get the full repaint and restore.

[edju1958]

OPtion 4 - I'll send you a good tank at no cost,just pay for shipping.

[bamaboilermaker]

i like option 4 best, just sent you a PM

[edju1958]

I'd do this by PM,but can't post pics there.I hope this tank will be satisfactory.It has most of it's paint & only a few chips & scratches.I filled both tank with water & no leaks.

thumbnail by edju1958, on Flickr

thumbnail by edju1958, on Flickr

thumbnail by edju1958, on Flickr

[bamaboilermaker]

that one looks great, thank you. please let me know if i can help you out with anything

[okie]

Redneck method of cleaning inside of tanks without lots of shaking and sweat.
On them magneisum white powder type tanks you will have to get a oil base back into them soon or a white powder will form again. I've even seen a brown mold in them and it must be cleaned good or it will get past the in tank fuel filter and clog the finer carb screen in a short time.

Strap it to a slow speed rotating wheel, like a tractor wheel if it's a big tank or still on a chainsaw or to a small rim if a small tank and just let it spin slow with nuts/bolts, or pieces of an old porch chain inside. You can rinse every once awhile with water.

Might use a more aggressive cleaner for the final tumbling.
You can go do other things while it's tumbling.

[redrider]

I’ve had great success with option 2. Actually, it’s the only option I use. You can pick up a quality tank seal by POR 15 that’s ready in a few days and probably costs less than shipping. That way you don’t have to take the saw apart and swap tanks also.

You do need to clean the current take out and do a good prep job. But to be honest, the sealer is fool proof and once done it’s a person any fix. Plus what settling you have from the sealer going to the bottom of the tank just makes a thicker and more reliable seal.

Just a thought

[xl130]

I just used that product on my XL902AM rebuild. It sealed up a small crack and some pinholes in the tank. I went with two coats and it has worked well so far....

As you suggested. Prep work is the key. Clean clean clean clean ...... then sealer😀

POR-15 49208 U.S. Standard Tank Sealer www.amazon.ca/dp/B00B3I2NWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_i_3R4XFM2E5S2S5VZXVRBT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1