Clutch Parts for Super E-Z Automatic

[jon01010]

I inherited a Super E-Z Automatic from my grandfather and we have rebuilt the carb and have it running again. My next two problems to solve are clutch slippage (larger cuts or pressure motor doesn't bog and chain stops) and the auto oiler not working. I've taken a look at the shop manual 5th edition from Leon's (http://www.leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com/uploads/3/9/7/9/39792537/homelite_chainsaw_service_shop_manual_5th_edition__pages_1-96_.pdf) and looking at Page B-4 neither clutch detailed appears to match what in my saw. The clutch drum has the sprocket integrated like part 14 of that diagram however, the clutch is a 3 shoe / spring type without a solid plate on the outside of the hub (see attached picture). Am I looking at the wrong service manual, has someone thrown on an incorrect part or are there multiple working options. Looking at parts it looks like the thrust washers have different thicknesses so I want to make sure I track down the correct items. The sprocket is heavily worn so I plan to change the drum as well once I know I'm looking at the correct manual and know which parts are correct. 

As for the auto oiler any suggestions on where to start? Could this be as simple as it sticking and needing disassembled / cleaned or are there common issues I should look for? Manual oiler works fine. 


I think I am dealing with a 1974 if I read the serial number thread correctly. Here's a picture of the tag for reference.  

Thanks in advance,
Jon

[jon01010]

Forgot to mention I am also looking at the IPL Part Number 24522-A Rev 2 from Leon's link www.leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com/uploads/3/9/7/9/39792537/homelite_super_ez_automatic_chainsaw_ipl_24522-a_revision_2_2.pdf

[blythkd]

That looks like the replacement clutch that came out in maybe the late 80's or so. Homelite discontinued the "S" clutch since they were very prone to breaking, which threw the engine into a huge imbalance situation all at once, not to mention the clutch would no longer hold anything either. If it's slipping too much, you'll likely need to replace it and possibly the drum as well. I believe you can put any SEZ clutch on the saw that you find, they're all the same thread. There's the old 3 shoe, the "S" clutch and newer 3 shoe like the one you have. If I recall correctly, the one you have is a 98132, with maybe an A before or after the part number.

OIler, I'd start by fishing the oil line and strainer out of the tank. You'll likely find a glob of sawdust stuck to the end of strainer. Probably the 2nd most likely culprit is the gear teeth worn off the oiler pump shaft.

[edju1958]

Most of the auto oilers on my SEZs don't work.I've never really looked into fixing them,I just don't have the time & it can get pricey too.I've seen used oilers go for $25 on Feebay & the thing is I don't even know if they work.I'm happy with the manual oiler working.I think out of the 23+ SEZs I have only 3 or 4 of the auto oilers work.I could probably use up pretty much all of one winter just getting all the auto oilers to work.

[kevinm1980]

Those clutch shoes don't look that bad, but if you need replacement shoes can order a clutch for a Stihl ms170-250 can use the shoes and springs..have to use the homelite center

[jon01010]

Mar 3, 2021 22:06:54 GMT -5 blythkd said:

That looks like the replacement clutch that came out in maybe the late 80's or so. Homelite discontinued the "S" clutch since they were very prone to breaking, which threw the engine into a huge imbalance situation all at once, not to mention the clutch would no longer hold anything either. If it's slipping too much, you'll likely need to replace it and possibly the drum as well. I believe you can put any SEZ clutch on the saw that you find, they're all the same thread. There's the old 3 shoe, the "S" clutch and newer 3 shoe like the one you have. If I recall correctly, the one you have is a 98132, with maybe an A before or after the part number.

OIler, I'd start by fishing the oil line and strainer out of the tank. You'll likely find a glob of sawdust stuck to the end of strainer. Probably the 2nd most likely culprit is the gear teeth worn off the oiler pump shaft.

Thanks for the info on the clutch. I am going to clean it and start with a new drum (sprocket worn) as it's slipping less the more I use it. 

As for the oiler, no strainer on that line and line was full of red paint chips. Blew it out and still not oiling, but going to disassemble and clean the pump when I pull the drum and see if trash made it to the pump. Also have a strainer ordered. 

I'll update again when I've made it further. 

Thanks again for the advice. 

[jon01010]

So another update. I got the oiler working. Took it apart and blew it out along with the passages on the saw. Had a couple of pieces of trash come out. Installed a new oil line and filter and it now seems to work. There was some wear on the oiler pump shaft as blythkd mentioned but pretty minor so hopefully that will last for many more years. Get a nice drip of oil every 3 - 5 seconds at idle, which seems correct since the oiler is driven off the shaft.

[rarefish383]

Glad to here it's coming along. I learned to climb with a Super EZ and they are one of my all time favorites. They tend to work way above their pay grade.