kennyw
Collector wannabe
Posts: 15
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Post by kennyw on Feb 22, 2021 8:06:11 GMT -5
UT 105064 Serial 792630015.
Just started looking at this for a friend. Starts up on first pull, great throttle response and idle but crank that throttle and she is a mosquito fogger!
Tilt test kills it so it needs seals.
Oil cap is warped so it's not pressurizing to oil.
New to Homelites but i really love this little saw. Been binge watching Leon's videos this past weekend and it sounds like just a carb adjustment.
Thoughts?
Thanks,
Kenny in CT (Ken's Small Engine Repair)
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okie
Saw Builder
Posts: 199
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Post by okie on Feb 22, 2021 8:17:48 GMT -5
Try dumping out the bar oil and re-test.
I don't think it's burning bar oil, but I've seen some that will if the pulse check valve is bad on the type that send a pressure to the bar oil tank and the engine starts burning bar oil.
Make sure someone has not mixed the oil/gas ratio too low.
should be 50:1
Usually a rich carb adjust will not produce lots of blue smoke.
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Post by undee70ss on Feb 22, 2021 9:23:58 GMT -5
Most likely oil lines are switched or the duckbill in oil tank is missing allowing bar oil to be sucked into crankcase. See pics for correct oil line connections.   |
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okie
Saw Builder
Posts: 199
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Post by okie on Feb 22, 2021 12:41:45 GMT -5
On them pic's that undee posted that little duckbill in the oil tank has to be in good shape so as to back check from sucking oil backwards into the crankcase
AND
in the owners manual Homie indicates to not fill the oil level above the duckbill, but from my experience a good duckbill will allow filling above. (when the saw is tilted the bar oil is going to be above the duckbill anyway)
You will find that gaskets for the gas and oil caps are kinda pricy, I've used O rings on some of the caps just add them over the cork gaskets. Be careful and do not try to tighten the caps excessively they will split or break the tank or the cap. When working on one and I see a oil cap not sealing I sometimes just swap the oil and gas cap to get a quick seal test instead of going looking for a cap or gasket. Flipping the saw upside down is a quick test of a cap sealing when it's on the gas tank.
Two types of caps for those, some use external threads and some use internal threads so you have to keep a heads up when ordering or buying replacements and the gaskets are different sizes.
AND it's really easy to get the oil lines wrong when replacing the tubing and not all have the same oiling configuration due to different type of oiler systems.
Cork oil or gas cap gaskets, replacement caps and plastic tanks that should cost few cents sells for whatever they can get.
Adds new meaning to the term price gouging by using the term Vintage instead of junk.
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Post by rowdy235 on Feb 22, 2021 12:56:01 GMT -5
Yep, I'd almost guarantee sucking in bar oil. Once you get that issue solved, I'd re-try the tilt test before replacing seals, could just be loading up with bar oil.
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okie
Saw Builder
Posts: 199
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Post by okie on Feb 23, 2021 6:30:14 GMT -5
Yep, I'd almost guarantee sucking in bar oil. Once you get that issue solved, I'd re-try the tilt test before replacing seals, could just be loading up with bar oil.About a tilt test hint that the clutch side crank seal is the leaker. If you loosen the chain tension or take the bar off and the low speed idle jet changes or the idling changes or gets erratic or unstable when you change the chain tension. Sometimes a saw can be running and idling ok with the bar and chain off and you install the bar and tension the chain and the idling gets erratic and unstable is a hint that the clutch side seal is bad. I've seen erratic idle and actually pass the tilt test until I install and tension the chain and the clutch side crank bearing/bushing is still ok, the seal is just old and not flexible enough to stay sealed as the crank is spinning with a slight sprocket/chain side load. I then do a pressure test and confirm while turning the crank and make sure the crank does not have any side play due to a bad bushing/bearing. |
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kennyw
Collector wannabe
Posts: 15
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Post by kennyw on Feb 23, 2021 6:33:38 GMT -5
Thanks for all the answers, I'm determined to figure this thing out. looks like I may be placing an order with Leon. Thanks again, Kenny in Ct.
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okie
Saw Builder
Posts: 199
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Post by okie on Feb 23, 2021 6:52:09 GMT -5
About them duckbills. (especially the oil tank duckbills that live in oil)
You can save some bucks if you shop around. I've seen them priced for like $8 each. I've bought a pack of around 6-8 maybe 10 them before for $8 or less.
Some of them oil tank duckbills of different models had a adapter to the oil line tubing and some oil lines had a sintered brass restrictor in the oil line by the duckbill.
If the duckbill was completely gone in the oil tank and just the tubing the old duckbill and or it's adapter is usually stuck in muck in the bottom of the oil tank and sometimes the adapter is on the old softened duckbill or separated from and rinsing the oil tank with gas and shaking the tank upside down will let them fall out. You can look at the IPL for your saw to see what yours had in this area. (their are different versions for this oil tank duckbill)
I've made the oil lines to duckbill adapter by using the plastic insulation from a solid copper electrical wire about $10 gauge and remove the wire and just use the hollow plastic insulation. (the duckbill will not fit or stay on the soft oil line tubing without the adapter.
I'm not sure but I think maybe the sintered brass fitting in the oil line restricted the pressure pulses and they might over oil if it's not used but I'm not sure.
Anyway my point is the duckbill in the oil tank usually requires the adapter and some have a little brass restricter inside the tubing and it's quite common for the oil tank duckbill to soften and fall off into the tank as they age. The oil tank duckbills soften and go bad faster than the ones used in the gas tank vent.
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kennyw
Collector wannabe
Posts: 15
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Post by kennyw on Feb 23, 2021 6:57:30 GMT -5
Thanks for the tip okie, I will see if the brass piece is there, if not I'll try your method and test with my Mityvac to make sure it is secure. Thanks again. Kenny in Ct.
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Post by blythkd on Feb 23, 2021 9:13:26 GMT -5
That little sintered metal connector lets pressure off of the tank when you shut the saw off. There's a spec that defines how much of it is supposed to be exposed between the end of the pressure line and the duckbill. I'm thinking it's about 1/16" but I don't believe it's critical. You just need some of it exposed to bleed pressure so don't shove the duckbill clear up tight against the end of the pressure line.
Good luck. Depending on the vintage, I've always thought they were great little saws considering no more than they were designed to be and cost.
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okie
Saw Builder
Posts: 199
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Post by okie on Feb 23, 2021 10:39:44 GMT -5
Keep a eye and ear open for a parts saw.
I've seen them in trash and at yard sales for just a few dollars.
Don't give much because they look the same on the outside but parts may not even fit on yours.
You can easily get more into one of them than they are worth buying parts.
I have about 3 of them and some for parts. I use them for trim saws and ATV/Jeep trail saws.
I have to make sure one starts and runs ok before going to the woods. they do not like to be rested for very long between operations and take a bar/chain tool (scrench) with you when operating. chain will jump if just little bit loose.
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kennyw
Collector wannabe
Posts: 15
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Post by kennyw on Mar 1, 2021 6:12:33 GMT -5
I followed everyone's advise and now just need a new oil cap to pressurize the system. I swapped the good fuel cap but you still see leakage past the threads. I did, however, utilize my MityVac to suck fresh oil up through the filter and the new Tygon oil tube to insure it was primed. Also, the sintered bronze tube WAS at the bottom of the tank with the now gummy duckbill valve. I actually had some Green Homelite Duckbills laying around so one went in the fuel tank hole and one in the crankcase line with the bronze tube. Thanks to all for the help. Kenny (Ken's Small Engine Repair)
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kennyw
Collector wannabe
Posts: 15
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Post by kennyw on Mar 10, 2021 14:59:55 GMT -5
I received my Rotary brand oil cap(s) and she now oils like she should! Now I have a problem, Homelite Fever! Going to look at a SXLAO for 40 bucks, looks in nice shape and if the photo is true to color, its Orange!! a U-Haul perhaps? It's from April 1986. I have to stop watching Leon's videos! They've turned me into a Homelite Junkie!!! Have to get a fix!! Help!!
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Post by undee70ss on Mar 10, 2021 15:04:42 GMT -5
I received my Rotary brand oil cap(s) and she now oils like she should! Now I have a problem, Homelite Fever! Going to look at a SXLAO for 40 bucks, looks in nice shape and if the photo is true to color, its Orange!! a U-Haul perhaps? It's from April 1986. I have to stop watching Leon's videos! They've turned me into a Homelite Junkie!!! Have to get a fix!! Help!! Glad it all worked out for you. SXLAO,s was homelites most popular saw. Still plenty of parts available for them. |
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okie
Saw Builder
Posts: 199
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Post by okie on Mar 10, 2021 15:10:25 GMT -5
Them duckbills for homies are a good thing to keep few around as spare.
I bought a package of around 10 few years ago with a Oregon part number and they are the good ones and store well inside my shop. You will find some of them overpriced ones won't last very long when subjected to oil.
Appears you now have the chainsaws collector fever, it won't stop with just Homies.
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kennyw
Collector wannabe
Posts: 15
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Post by kennyw on Mar 11, 2021 6:57:37 GMT -5
The fever actually started a few years ago when I met Dr. Matt Olson, who is a huge Husky porter/rebuilder. I went to a GTG and I was hooked. Only issue was while they are great saws, they seem to be valued like gold bars, at least the desirable models. With Homies, you can get a few decent cores to rebuild and not have to mortgage the ranch! I want to have some fun, not go into debt!! And the Journey begins.....
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