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Post by dancbx on Feb 14, 2021 21:05:14 GMT -5
I did not rebuild carb. I have replaced both crank seals and ignition module. Starts and revs , I have not check top rpm yet. I hear something about an internal governor on some of these?? I'll have to come back to this. Anyway, it idles right down, but it idles too fast. The stop screw is not even touching the arm. ?? Idles in all positions. Saw has not been run in probably 10 years. Any Ideas? Thanks Dan
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Post by rowdy235 on Feb 14, 2021 21:58:05 GMT -5
If the linkage is not making contact with the throttle screw, my guess would be some kind of jam up in the linkage. Can you push the linkage backwards and reduce the idle at all? Does the throttle lock function?
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Post by dancbx on Feb 15, 2021 7:20:03 GMT -5
If the linkage is not making contact with the throttle screw, my guess would be some kind of jam up in the linkage. Can you push the linkage backwards and reduce the idle at all? Does the throttle lock function? Thanks for the reply, the linkage is Free and no change if I "manually force" it.Thanks Dan
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Post by undee70ss on Feb 15, 2021 7:42:27 GMT -5
Air leak.
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Post by edju1958 on Feb 15, 2021 10:21:56 GMT -5
The carb might be set too lean.Try turning the lo screw out about 1/4 turn,then throttle it.If still running too fast at idle repeat the procedure.If the saw will still not idle down after the lo screw is out past 2 full turns out,then I'd have to agree with undee70ss.Another way to check is to put a different carb on it.An HS96 & HS26 will work & there are others,but the needle grommet in the air box will not line up.I found that a grommet from an XL-923 works when changing out carbs.
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Post by lesorubcheek on Feb 15, 2021 13:42:37 GMT -5
The governor on these is a brass colored plug with a flat-head for removal. They have a ball that allows extra fuel to pass at a certain high rpm. Probably not causing a fast idle, but ya never know. I'll make an assumption that you're good with carb adjustment and that opening up the lo has made no change, so I'd be guessing air leak too. You've changed seals, so probably good there. 925s have a rep for cracked intake manifolds. The phenolic material may be great for heat isolation, but they do crack. Also may not hurt to look at the throttle shaft. I've seen more than one saw where the shaft is worn and that allows extra air in, same effect as partly open throttle. The O ring on the cover plate under the flywheel is another possible leak spot.
Dan
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Post by dancbx on Feb 15, 2021 17:46:41 GMT -5
The carb might be set too lean.Try turning the lo screw out about 1/4 turn,then throttle it.If still running too fast at idle repeat the procedure.If the saw will still not idle down after the lo screw is out past 2 full turns out,then I'd have to agree with undee70ss.Another way to check is to put a different carb on it.An HS96 & HS26 will work & there are others,but the needle grommet in the air box will not line up.I found that a grommet from an XL-923 works when changing out carbs. Opening up the idle screw does slow it down, but it seems to load up a bit then. I'll do some more testing on this, its cold as hell here lately. Thanks for the tips and information. Dan
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Post by dancbx on Feb 15, 2021 17:50:53 GMT -5
The governor on these is a brass colored plug with a flat-head for removal. They have a ball that allows extra fuel to pass at a certain high rpm. Probably not causing a fast idle, but ya never know. I'll make an assumption that you're good with carb adjustment and that opening up the lo has made no change, so I'd be guessing air leak too. You've changed seals, so probably good there. 925s have a rep for cracked intake manifolds. The phenolic material may be great for heat isolation, but they do crack. Also may not hurt to look at the throttle shaft. I've seen more than one saw where the shaft is worn and that allows extra air in, same effect as partly open throttle. The O ring on the cover plate under the flywheel is another possible leak spot. Dan Thanks for the reply, interesting note on the governor circuit, I was wondering what that screw was for. The saw idles down nicely, just not low enough. I'll check the phenolic block and gaskets there as well. I'll report back, it may be a bit, cold as hell here lately. thanks for the help.
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Post by dancbx on Mar 7, 2021 18:51:29 GMT -5
Okay, I've dipped the carb and put new diaphragm, gasket and needle in. Installed a new not new old stock seal on the flywheel side. They are both new aftermarket. Same results. I sprayed either over the phenolic block. No change in idle. Could a reed be stuck open? It revs nicely. I might sending this one to the expert here.
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Post by edju1958 on Mar 7, 2021 21:28:17 GMT -5
If you have a reed that's stuck open it'll be hard starting & race like hell.Is the saw hard to start?
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Post by dancbx on Mar 8, 2021 7:31:05 GMT -5
If you have a reed that's stuck open it'll be hard starting & race like hell.Is the saw hard to start? Ok thanks, no, starts great and no racing.
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Post by onlyhomelites on Mar 9, 2021 23:46:06 GMT -5
I chatted with Dan via email...the most common air leaks on these are at the crank seals or intake block and he seems to have eliminated these concerns. It's a longshot, but it's worth pulling the carb and seeing if the throttle plate has been messed with so it won't close all the way. I've seen this happen where the carb was disassembled too far and the plate can really only clock in one fashion or it will jam in the venturi. I'm looking forward to seeing what this ends up being!
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Post by dancbx on Mar 10, 2021 21:52:13 GMT -5
I chatted with Dan via email...the most common air leaks on these are at the crank seals or intake block and he seems to have eliminated these concerns. It's a longshot, but it's worth pulling the carb and seeing if the throttle plate has been messed with so it won't close all the way. I've seen this happen where the carb was disassembled too far and the plate can really only clock in one fashion or it will jam in the venturi. I'm looking forward to seeing what this ends up being! Thanks Leon- Update- This is a picture of the carb. Everything looks good, I am confused as to why it has that hole in it, wouldn't that kind of make idle adjustment almost a non issue when that throttle plate is closed? The XL98 has virtually the same carb (but no hi mix) with that hole too. I pulled a used carb from a somewhat tired xl903 and put that on the 925 and so far decent idle. I did not cut with it but it certainly idles much better. I don't have the idle stop screw transferred from the 903 so its "closed" but a vast improvement of where I was. The carb from the 903 did NOT have that hole in the plate nor that governor circuit. This may work, more to follow. Attachments:
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Post by edju1958 on Mar 10, 2021 22:18:05 GMT -5
You wouldn't be the first person to swap out the HS151 carb from a 925.I ran into a problem with the 151 carb on my 925 last yr.& I ended up putting an HS26 in it which was originally in an earlier 900 series saw.The only thing I had to do to make it "work" properly was use a hi/lo needle grommet from a 923.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2021 21:18:14 GMT -5
edju1958, could you think of some more carbs that would fit the 925? I don't want to use the HS151 mine came with. Somebody broke one of the screws off inside.
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Post by edju1958 on Mar 11, 2021 23:23:27 GMT -5
There are 3 that I can think of & there might possibly be more.I used an HS26,an HS92 will fit & I believe an HS73(?).I went to look for more on Acres' site,but apparently his site is down.When using the HS26 & HS92 you'll need to use the needle grommet for an XL-923.
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Post by edju1958 on Mar 13, 2021 10:37:13 GMT -5
I see the HS82 that was on eBay is gone.Did you buy it?
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Post by Deleted on Mar 13, 2021 18:37:20 GMT -5
I did. I jumped on it right away.
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Post by edju1958 on Mar 13, 2021 20:14:09 GMT -5
Chances are you'll need to rebuild it,so just take the kit out of the 151 & put it in the 92.They both use the same kit.
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Post by dancbx on Mar 14, 2021 10:04:32 GMT -5
You wouldn't be the first person to swap out the HS151 carb from a 925.I ran into a problem with the 151 carb on my 925 last yr.& I ended up putting an HS26 in it which was originally in an earlier 900 series saw.The only thing I had to do to make it "work" properly was use a hi/lo needle grommet from a 923. So I am back to square one. Started it yesterday and immediate hi idle. Stumped on this one. Leon- looks like you'll get to make a video of this one!
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