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Post by 5terrysupersaws on Jan 24, 2021 20:54:36 GMT -5
Next step: Pressure testing the crankcase and inspecting potential leak points ....
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okie
Saw Builder
Posts: 199
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Post by okie on Jan 25, 2021 8:30:30 GMT -5
Right about taking the carb in/out blindfolded. (same here) The first time re-installing them EZ HDC carbs has a big learning curve.
When you are re-installing the carb do you take the handle apart and re-connect the throttle linkage inside the handle or do you just try to reconnect inside the air box with the handle still together?
If you want to eventually pressure test your block to look for a leak now that you have a pressure gauge. You can make the block off gaskets for the carb and muffler yourself.
You might take a glance at the very bottom of the trouble saw in vicinity of the handle, some have a bump/hump about one inch x one inch in the block and if used lot's I've seen them rub a small hole or crack at the bump in the block. It can be epoxied to seal.
This bump on the bottom of the block rubs on rocks, etc, as the saw sits and idles or if someone is piss revving the saw on concrete.
You now will have some confidence doing repairs to your own saw and have a spare carb and other parts.
Make sure you have the carb adjusted so as to not be running lean BEFORE you put the saw into big wood.
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Post by roodog575 on Jan 25, 2021 10:01:24 GMT -5
I found it was pretty easy to remove the handle and pop the trigger off its pin. This made disconnecting/connecting the throttle linkage much easier. Plus it gave me the opportunity to clean the trigger area thoroughly.
While taking a closer look at the body of the saw, I found a screw missing on the bottom right. I don’t think it has any bearing on sealing anything up but will need to get that squared away nonetheless. I didn’t see any type of damage otherwise.
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danw
Groundie
Posts: 4
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Post by danw on May 3, 2021 13:36:44 GMT -5
Hello, I’m working on cleaning up the second of two EZ Autos I’ve acquired. The first one cleaned up and runs great. The second is racing to very high rpm at start up. I’ve adjusted the carb settings per the manual but I haven’t torn the carb apart. I was hoping to get the same result as with the first saw. No such luck. Duckbills are new as is fuel line. I will be tearing into the carb but was wondering what’s the likely culprit for the super fast idle? Thanks. |
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danw
Groundie
Posts: 4
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Post by danw on May 3, 2021 13:42:43 GMT -5
hi, i too recently acquired an ez. still looking for a clutch. any ideas? as for the high idle, I think they're all supposed to rev high at start up, then idle down when you hit the throttle. check for a worn "catch" on throttle linkage.
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okie
Saw Builder
Posts: 199
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Post by okie on May 3, 2021 14:29:02 GMT -5
hi, i too recently acquired an ez. still looking for a clutch. any ideas? as for the high idle, I think they're all supposed to rev high at start up, then idle down when you hit the throttle. check for a worn "catch" on throttle linkage. No expert here but just from experience with EZ's: If you will take the air cleaner cover off and look at the very front of the handle you will see a slotted headed shiny screw. That is the fast idle adjust screw for when starting the saw with the de-compression used and the trigger lock button used. It is fine threaded and takes several turns to get a response by trial and error. (so go slow and do not jam the screw, it's threaded through the plastic throttle trigger) Some EZ's start easier at a very fast throttle lock setting and have less tendency to flood and easier to clear a flooded engine if using a fast idle setting of the screw. Lower compression EZ's also start easier using a fast throttle setting. As for the clutch, different types were used some are spring type using 3 springs and some are S type. You can see pictures of each at Leon's site or also on flea bay. |
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Post by rarefish383 on May 26, 2021 13:10:06 GMT -5
My Dad used to say, "Do as I say, not as I do". I'm 65 and still drop start all of my saws, including my 100+ CC saws. Allways drop the Super 1050's. Usually use the decomp on the 660, but still drop it.
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okie
Saw Builder
Posts: 199
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Post by okie on May 26, 2021 13:45:07 GMT -5
My Dad used to say, "Do as I say, not as I do". I'm 65 and still drop start all of my saws, including my 100+ CC saws. Allways drop the Super 1050's. Usually use the decomp on the 660, but still drop it. Oh My: You and I are not in the safe category. We are bad. Anyone that has operated a chainsaw very much and says that they have never drop started a chainsaw is a LIAR.I've even torn those tags off of mattresses (more than one) while reading the warning to not do such. |
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