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Post by xl130 on Oct 24, 2020 17:51:12 GMT -5
I have a few XL-130 parts saws that won’t fire. Trying to troubleshoot the issue.
One Abe a wico flywheel and a black coil and blue Atom chip. Does Wico have a black coil labelled X16825E?
Possibly wrong coil ? Possibly bad chip? Possibly bad coil?
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on Oct 24, 2020 19:33:23 GMT -5
X16825E is a Wico coil ... have one on a Super VI-200 , and two X16825D coils on XL-130's .
What are the resistance measurements from the coil ?
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Post by xl130 on Oct 24, 2020 19:40:04 GMT -5
X16825E is a Wico coil ... have one on a Super VI-200 , and two X16825D coils on XL-130's . What are the resistance measurements from the coil ? Don’t know....how do you test them? |
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on Oct 24, 2020 20:22:40 GMT -5
Disconnect the stop-switch and Atom-module from the coil . Using an Ohm meter measure the
resistance of the Primary and Secondary(include the high-tension lead and plug connector) winding of the coil .
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Post by xl130 on Oct 24, 2020 20:32:53 GMT -5
Full disclosure: I have no experience with instrumentation and very little electronic or electrical knowledge.
Would a standard multimeter give me the information I need? What am I looking for in regards to a reading?
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Post by rowdy235 on Oct 24, 2020 23:45:39 GMT -5
Full disclosure: I have no experience with instrumentation and very little electronic or electrical knowledge. Would a standard multimeter give me the information I need? What am I looking for in regards to a reading? Yes, you will want to set the multimeter to resistance or ohm setting. If the meter is not autoranging I would use the 10k ohm range. I’ve never seen any published figures for readings, but an open circuit or dead short are definitely bad. |
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Post by Clasec on Oct 24, 2020 23:58:45 GMT -5
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Post by xl130 on Oct 29, 2020 7:23:06 GMT -5
I figured this out. There was nothing wrong with the coil or chip. The woodruff key was missing. Upon further inspection I realized that the spark plug would jump fire sometimes. Try to start and it would damn near rip the pull cord out if your hand. Pulled the flywheel and sure enough the key was missing. Not sure if was broken and then fell out during flywheel removal....
Always something new!
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Post by fossil on Oct 30, 2020 9:48:33 GMT -5
When you put the flywheel back on make sure there is no oil or grease on the taper surfaces of the flywheel or the crankshaft.
Taper fittings hold only by friction. Oily surfaces can easily lead to a sheared key.
Get some chlorinated (dry cleaning fluid) brake cleaner in an aerosol can.
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Post by xl130 on Oct 31, 2020 5:57:30 GMT -5
Still something wrong here. Consistently jumping the spark plug when you pull the recoil. Put the plug in and it won’t start?
I swapped the points coil & chip out for a known good Blue electronic coil on the saw. Pulled the cord and it fired on the fuel left in the cylinder?
Something messed up with this chip set up?
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Post by fossil on Nov 1, 2020 9:19:18 GMT -5
Have you tried a different plug?
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Post by xl130 on Nov 1, 2020 20:06:30 GMT -5
I did not.....I had contemplated that but forgot to try a different plug.
I swapped the coil out for a blue prestolite from a XL-130 that runs. The “new” XL-130 now runs.
I’ll swap the ponies coil and chip set up over to the “old” XL-130 and see what happens. I’m assuming it will not start that saw either.
This must the a Terry build ignition. It has the points style coil and the saw had the old style starter cover that won’t fit the blue electronic coils.
I guess they used a blue prestolite chip and called it electronic?
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Post by xl130 on Feb 5, 2021 8:26:31 GMT -5
Have you tried a different plug? The darn plug was bad. It must have been getting progressively worse. I was using one of those “first fire” plugs for testing. It was hardly used so I assume it was good. It was not! I was able to use the chip/coil combo without any problems once I put a new Champion plug in. |
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