Did my first boot install on my 550 yesterday. What a pleasure that was after having done a couple os 330's. First one of this family I ever worked on, so I didn't know what to expect. This saw is in really sweet shape. Obviously a low hour example. At 81cc this saw feels about right for weight vs displacement. But is the 450 built on this same frame? It would be overweight IMO for a 74cc saw. Reason that's interesting to me is that the guy I got this from told me it was a 450, so it was a nice surprise when it turned out to be a 550 instead. Want to make some noise with this today and compare it to a same size Jonsered 820. Acres site lists the no load for this saw as "11,000 to 12,500", whcih is an awful wide range. Where do you guys set this saw? I'm thinking 12,000 is good?
Yes the 450 and 550 are virtually the same saw, especially when it comes to size and appearance, nearly identical.
A good running 450 will hang right with a 550, maybe even out perform it. Homelite made some changes when they came out with the 550, lower compression if I'm not mistaken, but that's just off the cuff. Some others here may know what other changes they made going from the 450 to the 550.
Good luck with it!
Last Edit: Oct 19, 2020 16:28:23 GMT -5 by blythkd
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Thank you men; all good info. Going to tune it in the wood this weekend in something bigger than the 12" logs on either end of my pile of firewood logs. Runs nice; idle and acceleration are good, just need to dial in the hi end. Certainly looks the part with a new 24" bar on it. Having fun with it.
Going to tune it in the wood this weekend in something bigger than the 12" logs on either end of my pile of firewood logs. Runs nice; idle and acceleration are good, just need to dial in the hi end.
What's the process you use to do this? I also have a 550 and can adjust the hi-end when it's under no load, but trying to cut something, hold the saw and twist the carb hi needle is a party trick I'm yet to accomplish well. I guess this applies to any saw and not just the 550 you (and I ) are working on.
I've adjusted saws while cutting before, by stabilizing the saws with the bar spike and tuning with my free hand. But the saw has to have one of those adjustmnent guides to keep the screwdriver where you want it. Won't be able to do that with the 550 since there is no guide. The better and frankly safer way to go is to add or subtract with the hi speed and see and hear how the saw responds. Some saws may like a little more fuel than they are getting when set with the tach. I don't know, its kind of a trial and error thing. Little nore this way, little more that way, and find the sweet spot. Then, just for reference, I'll look at it again with the tach and see where she likes to be.