|
Post by The Lumberjack Preacher on Dec 11, 2019 15:26:40 GMT -5
Hey all, its been a minute since I've posted but Im back to working on the super 1050 you all were so kind to help me with last year. Its ripping and cutting well with the port work, however it has lower compression than I care for. It had around 200psi with the stock piston but it broke (yes, I made a horribly stupid mistake) and replaced it with a little red barn piston with much less squish. (moral of the story, dont by little red barn). Anyhow, I have myself a degree wheel and my last major project is done (built and installed a 454 in my 87 caprice) so I am going to start toying with the timing on big red and see what there is to be gained. Has anyone else messed with the timing on these saws? Seems really common with those orange saws, so why not these as well? I will keep updates here as I learn.
|
|
|
Post by onlyhomelites on Dec 11, 2019 23:31:14 GMT -5
I'll be interested to see what you come up with...the timing on the Homelite saws is fixed and I've never had the need/desire to mess with modifications. But you may find favorable results!
|
|
|
Post by sawnami on Dec 12, 2019 7:46:01 GMT -5
I had a 2000-series Homelite that had an electronic conversion kit on it that showed a noticable timing advance shift. It either beat or held it's own against Husky 2100's in vintage races. You can also toss the flywheel key, and move the flywheel advanced, and put valve lapping compound on the taper then torque the flywheel nut.
|
|
|
Post by sweepleader on Dec 12, 2019 14:53:36 GMT -5
I have used valve lapping compound from time to time, on my wife's van's wiper arm/shaft joint for instance.
Can a flywheel be removed after that? (The wiper arm needs to be redone from time to time and gets smaller with each loosening.)
|
|
|
Post by The Lumberjack Preacher on Dec 12, 2019 15:23:49 GMT -5
I'm going to start about 5 degrees and go from there. This saw has lower compression than it should but I also raised the power band by raising the exhaust port ceiling so more timing should be beneficial.
As far as valve compound, that sounds like a poor idea. The key doesn't hold the flywheel on, torque of the nut and taper of the crankshaft do....
|
|
|
Post by The Lumberjack Preacher on Dec 12, 2019 15:29:58 GMT -5
I'll be interested to see what you come up with...the timing on the Homelite saws is fixed and I've never had the need/desire to mess with modifications. But you may find favorable results! I Ported the exhaust window rather significantly on this saw, went out to about 60% of the bore diameter and raised the ceiling roughly .035 to get more rpm. Next summer it's all getting torn apart and powder coated and I'm going to have some series machine work done to this jug (or maybe a better example if I can find one) to make this saw spin higher and make a lot more torque. These are strong saws, unfortunately the power to weight is down, so more power is needed! Haha
|
|
|
Post by sawnami on Dec 12, 2019 19:55:07 GMT -5
As far as valve compound, that sounds like a poor idea. The key doesn't hold the flywheel on, torque of the nut and taper of the crankshaft do.... This "poor idea" is keyless with lapping compound.
|
|
|
Post by The Lumberjack Preacher on Dec 12, 2019 21:11:02 GMT -5
As far as valve compound, that sounds like a poor idea. The key doesn't hold the flywheel on, torque of the nut and taper of the crankshaft do.... This "poor idea" is keyless with lapping compound. Allow me the grace to explain. Lapping compound being abrasive would likely remove material from the crank or flywheel which I "assume" is a bad thing. The fact that the key doesn't lock the flywheel in place but the taper and torque makes the compound redundant. That's why I saw its a poor idea. That being said, I've seen your saw before and it's pretty cool. How much did you adjust the timing?
|
|
|
Post by blythkd on Dec 12, 2019 21:13:28 GMT -5
If you don't like the idea of the lapping compound you can also use a dot of Loctite.
|
|
|
Post by ken8831200 on Dec 13, 2019 8:13:31 GMT -5
Interesting reading here, I knew there were people who did things like modifying chainsaws. My self I'm just happy if I can get mine to start and cut up some firewood! Don't take that as a put-down. I mean I'm crazy enough that I spent an afternoon making one working 1950's SunBeam MixMaster out of two non-working one and I trying to find a source for parts to get the second one working! Now to get back on-topic. I spent years working on heavy equipment and one engine manufacture, Cummins to be exact, used off-set woodruff keys to adjust cam timing. Not sure if it would be possible to get enough change on one of these engines but it's a thought. Did a search on "offset woodruff keys" and found this: www.scooter-attack.com/offset-woodruff-key-top-performances-t9909180-39.html?___store=sa_enSo there are crazyes there too! PS Wife Rides a Vespa so I already knew Scooter people were "Special"!
|
|
|
Post by edju1958 on Dec 13, 2019 8:57:54 GMT -5
I figured that I'd throw in my 2 cents here (probably about what it's worth).I'm a firm believer in "if it ain't broke,don't fix it".Of course this doesn't include preventative maintainence.Even though I'm constantly complaining about how an engineer designed a saw (not giving enough room in an air box on an SEZ for example),I'm sure there was a lot of thought put into the design of the engine on the 1050.The components that were put into the engine were designed to meet certain stress criteria.Now start fooling around with variables that the saw was not designed for & I think you might be asking for trouble.I'd hate to see your perfectly good running saw to end up as a parts saw.If you want your saw to run as fast as a Stihl or Husky why not just go out & buy a Stihl or Husky?
Ed
|
|
|
Post by sweepleader on Dec 13, 2019 14:19:40 GMT -5
Ed, I guess I need to caution you about throwing around those "S" and "H" words on the House of Homelite. Just because we all know those words exist doesn't mean we should be using them in polite company. Everyone please remember we have "Off Topic" threads if you want to use those off color words. Then to answer your question, there are lots of reasons someone might want to mod their Real Chainsaw and make a Homelite run better. The factory did it constantly and conservatively, they had warranty costs to keep in mind. Folks here just might come up with something that the factory boys did not use, thus beating Leon at a GTG. Spark timing just might be that winner. I can think of no better reason for messing with a perfectly good saw than that. Anyone else have any thoughts?
|
|
|
Post by edju1958 on Dec 13, 2019 15:43:52 GMT -5
I'm only trying to make a point Dan.Sorry it offends you.
Ed
|
|
|
Post by onlyhomelites on Dec 13, 2019 21:03:10 GMT -5
I know Rich Dougan up in Myrtle Creek does quite a bit of customizing on the new S & H saws with great results. But they are also technically not for use, so who knows what the durability really is. We all know that a true race engine in a stock car may only get one use before a rebuild...on a chainsaw you've got to find that right balance between reliability and power. I tend to err on the same side as Ed, but I am interested in the successes of saws like the "Angry Mosquito". Pretty cool!
|
|
|
Post by sweepleader on Dec 14, 2019 20:48:15 GMT -5
Please don't worry about offending me Ed, you will have a very hard time doing it. I was not intending to make you sad either, just poking a little fun. Sometimes it doesn't come over so well when typed in a forum. Your position regarding keeping a saw stock is certainly understandable, but it would be fun to clean up on Leon, eh? (Tough guy from 1600 miles away!!)
|
|
|
Post by edju1958 on Dec 14, 2019 21:01:25 GMT -5
Please don't worry about offending me Ed, you will have a very hard time doing it. I was not intending to make you sad either, just poking a little fun. Sometimes it doesn't come over so well when typed in a forum. Your position regarding keeping a saw stock is certainly understandable, but it would be fun to clean up on Leon, eh? (Tough guy from 1600 miles away!!) And I just thought you were being anal about S & H saws.Lol I just don't want to see someone blow their saw up after all the hard work that was put into rebuilding it,not to mention the cost.I burned up a beautiful running SEZ 1 1/2 yrs.ago out of my own stupidity of forgetting to check the needles after replacing a faulty fuel cap.That still sticks in my craw. I'm sure the folks at Homelite ran a bunch of scenarios when they were building their saws & came up with the best & safest one to go with.Not only were they building saws for the average homeowner & farmer,they were also making saws for the profession logger & fire fighter. Ed
|
|
|
Post by blythkd on Dec 15, 2019 15:31:03 GMT -5
It's all good Ed. If we tear 'em up, we're gonna fix 'em, right? Anywhere there's machines, there's going to be guys modifying them to see just how much they can get out of them. Look at pulling trucks and tractors for instance. Most power equipment has quite a bit left "in reserve" when it leaves the factory, it's just up to us to get it out of them.
I bought my 8800 from our Homelite factory service rep at a training workshop. He gave me a little insight as to how much power he was getting out of an 8800 that he was taking around to show off, maybe even GTG's, I don't know. I'm not sure the one I got from him was one that he had modified, he just said it was a demo that he carried around in the trunk of his car. If he had modified it, he put it back to factory stock before he shipped it to me, dang it! And he wouldn't give me much for details as to what he did to them. He just said he totally embarrassed people with it.
Back to the original topic of timing. I recall a Lombard, Comango I think, that used to come into the shop years ago that was pretty stout. It was the only saw I'd ever seen that you could hold it down and pull the rope out literally as slow as you could and when it broke over compression, it would start up and run. I'm not sure exactly what combination of compression and timing that saw was running, I just know if it kicked back on you when you were cranking it normally, it would nearly take your fingers off! Good times!
|
|
|
Post by edju1958 on Dec 15, 2019 18:13:59 GMT -5
The last I knew 1050 cylinders were getting to be almost impossible to find.Go ahead & tear it up,it's not my saw.I'll sit back & wait to see what happens like everyone else. Ed
|
|
|
Post by sh on May 5, 2023 9:48:20 GMT -5
How is that saw today? Did he ever think to use another fuel for a little more umph! Like Ken said I’m happy if I can get one to run but I’m not averse to watch a machine scream From a safe distance.as long as I did not pay for it,my 77 iron head is basically stock but I’ve seen a few blow up through the years. BUT, I would like to know that saws present condition.
|
|
|
Post by ibmike on May 6, 2023 8:22:25 GMT -5
How is that saw today? Did he ever think to use another fuel for a little more umph! Like Ken said I’m happy if I can get one to run but I’m not averse to watch a machine scream From a safe distance.as long as I did not pay for it,my 77 iron head is basically stock but I’ve seen a few blow up through the years. BUT, I would like to know that saws present condition. In the sixties we called Iron Heads Sporty Grenade's
|
|