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Post by vankjeff on Jan 29, 2019 3:23:05 GMT -5
I've had this Homelite HB25150V a long time, since it was new, and I've only used it indoors to sweep my shop's floor. It has been sitting unused for a few years. It starts really easily but I always need to keep moving the choke between ½ choke and full choke and messing with the throttle to try to keep it running after it has run for maybe a minute. I've tried all the fuel mixture tuning that I can think to try. It sounds like it runs great when it will run. It's just that it keeps dying. I've fiddled with it so much and nothing I do can make it happy so that's why I ask if anybody could help me in person. I could stop by with it at any time since I'm retired. Not that it matters much but here's a photo of it:
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Post by undee70ss on Jan 29, 2019 4:02:54 GMT -5
I should have mentioned that I'd stopped using the blower at lower RPMs as a broom in my shop back in 2005 when I sold my business. After that it mostly sat unused since I paid to have my lawn care done.After that, I only used it a few times like blowing off the patio or the cul-de-sac of sparkler sticks on July 5th a few times. Then I had a bad MX wreck and was so badly hurt that the blower sat unused from about 2007 - 2014. At that point, it wouldn't start when I finally tried it. I found this site and asked for help. I ended up figuring out on my own, that as the fuel had evaporated over the years, it had left the oil which clogged the input filter so even with new pre-mix, it wouldn't start. I solved that by putting straight gas in it, letting it sit for a few days to loosen the grime, shake the heck out of it & dump the tank dry. I was jazzed when I put pre-mix in, pumped the primer, choked it & it fired right up. That got me to this point. I've been fighting this dying problem ever since. So I'd have to blame a blocked fuel pickup or maybe a bad carb gasket and not a blockage in the muffler. Don't ya think? Have had this problem for a long time.... I looked through your old posts and I think this one says it best. Either the carb still has blockage or there is a air leak. Was the carb ever cleaned and a kit installed? Welch plugs pulled? Given the amount of time you have been working on this, the easiest way out would be to mail it to Leon, as he has work on many things for customers, and quite a few mail their saw, ect.. to him. He even makes videos and posts them on youtube for his customers. You would have to contact Leon for prices and a time slot. Im not anywhere near CA, but if I was I would help you out.
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Post by rowdy235 on Jan 29, 2019 14:12:17 GMT -5
Did you ever rebuild the carburetor?
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Post by vankjeff on Jan 29, 2019 14:40:46 GMT -5
Did you ever rebuild the carburetor? No, I never did. I'm no good at this stuff anymore. But hey, I turn 60 today. I did all the gas cap ventilation checking and fuel additive stuff. But rebuilding carbs is above me. I don't even have a workbench anymore and I busted my tailbone bad when I was carrying the blower into the laundry room from the garage to use the washing machine as a workbench & I lost my balance & fell backwards back out the door onto my tailbone on the concrete floor. I'd arched my back as I fell to keep from busting my head on the floor. Luckily the blower ended up beside me & not on my face or my chest. Anyway, I wonder how much it would cost me to ship it roundtrip and for labor & parts. I don't know if that would cost me more than just buying a new corded or even a cordless blower. I've borrowed my neighbor's cordless blower & that thing is lightweight & boy does it blow!
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Post by vankjeff on Jan 29, 2019 14:47:43 GMT -5
Did you ever rebuild the carburetor? Can you ask Leon about this for me as far as estimated parts, labor & shipping charges? It might just be time to toss this old beast & buy a corded or cordless. I used my neighbor's cordless and it worked nice. Hmm, if you Reply to another one, this site Quotes the prior person's stuff that you Responded to and not the one that you're actually Replying to. That's weird.
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Post by rowdy235 on Jan 29, 2019 14:59:10 GMT -5
Did you ever rebuild the carburetor? Can you ask Leon about this for me as far as estimated parts, labor & shipping charges? It might just be time to toss this old beast & buy a corded or cordless. I used my neighbor's cordless and it worked nice. Hmm, if you Reply to another one, this site Quotes the prior person's stuff that you Responded to and not the one that you're actually Replying to. That's weird. Leon should be around and will pry pm you. If not I'd feel free to pm him. Really just depends what works for you. I've seen some good deals on cordless blowers lately that is pry close if not less than shipping labor and parts. This may also benefit you because as I recall you don't have a good source for non ethanol fuel. If you decide to replace I'd gladly take this one off your hands
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Post by vankjeff on Jan 29, 2019 18:27:27 GMT -5
Maybe I should give it a shot rebuilding the carb myself? I've done stuff like that in the past. But, from what you guys know about how these carbs work, would it make any sense that it would need a rebuild if, as I've said, it always starts pretty easily and it runs ok for awhile? It can't be that it's just running for that long on the gas that was pumped up by my finger, or can it? If it can, maybe I could just see if pumping it a time or 2 before it wants to die might keep it running? That would for sure tell me that the carb wasn't getting gas on its own, right?
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Post by sweepleader on Jan 29, 2019 18:41:41 GMT -5
That might indicate that the fuel pump in the carb was or was not working. If you have an air leak in the fuel line, you might get enough fuel with the primer but not enough with the fuel pump diaphragm. If you are thinking of replacing with a battery unit anyway, there is nothing to lose by trying to find the problem.
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Post by onlyhomelites on Jan 30, 2019 0:15:09 GMT -5
PM Sent.
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Post by vankjeff on Jan 30, 2019 1:04:36 GMT -5
So does the primer that I push just fill up an area in the carb that it can run on for a minute or 2 and then if there's an air leak in the fuel line that hangs into the tank, the carb has been sucking air thru the leak and that could be the problem? If that might be the deal, couldn't I test that theory by pushing the primer bulb when the engine seems to always want to die after running for a minute? I've been playing with the choke and throttle to try to keep it running. I guess that test wouldn't really determine whether it is air leak in that fuel line or if the carb isn't pumping fuel & needs a rebuild, right?
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Post by onlyhomelites on Jan 30, 2019 9:01:34 GMT -5
Most primer carburetor systems have 3 hoses. You have your main supply hose to the carburetor, you have a hose from the carburetor to the primer and a hose that runs from the primer back to the fuel tank. The man supply hose is filtered. The intermediate hose between the carburetor and primer acts as a suction when you press the bulb; it draws fuel through the carburetor, filling it in theory. Once the carb is "full", any extra fuel & pressure is expelled through the outlet side of the primer back into the fuel tank.
More than once I have come across one of these systems where the hoses are hooked up backwards, i.e. the fuel pickup hose is hooked to the primer barb and the primer hose is hooked to the pickup barb. They'll run for 20-30 seconds and then die out. But if this one has never been worked on (or you know the full history), that's not very likely.
It really does sound like a carburetor diaphragm kit is in order. Most can be found for about $10.
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Post by vankjeff on Jan 30, 2019 15:09:15 GMT -5
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Post by vankjeff on Jan 30, 2019 18:29:15 GMT -5
I'm sorry I started this 2nd thread on the same thing. I'm bad. 🙁 I just tried to start it. I set it on FULL CHOKE. Then I pumped it about 8 or 9 times until I heard a squirting noise. It started on the first pull but it only ran a few seconds. Then, no matter what I did, I couldn't get it to start after trying for quite awhile, so I had to give up. I've had the air filter cover off and the filter element out as I've been trying to get this thing to stay running and as it sat there, some fuel poured out of the air filter box. Not much but surely it shouldn't have that much raw fuel anywhere in the inlet channel of the carb that can backflow into the air filter like that. Does this tell you anything or does it just say that I had way over-pumped the primer? I just had this idea that might explain all that oily crud that I see around the carb. Maybe it is getting blown out of the air filter’s intake spout that is aimed towards the engine? My idea is that since I've had this problem keeping it running and I have had to repeatedly keep choking it to keep it from dying, that is probably causing pressurized air that has been thru the carb that has picked up more than the normal amount of pre-mix, to blow back up into the throat of the carb on each stroke. But maybe not since the choke blade would shut off access to the air filter so that's not a possible path for the pre-mix fuel mess?
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Post by onlyhomelites on Jan 31, 2019 0:03:51 GMT -5
You really need to pull the carburetor off enough to see what the model & make are! That model of blower could use a Walbro WT or a Zama C1U carburetor and the gaskets aren't even close to the same. I quoted $10 because the Amazon kits are made in China and I personally stay away from them and try to use only OEM kits when possible. A Walbro kit for the WT carburetor is about $10 on ebay.
Choking the engine while it's running can saturate the air filter area and some blowback is normal, especially on piston ported engines such as this one. But for fuel to run out while it's sitting there makes me think there is leakage past the fuel metering needle. This can be because of a bad needle or a stiff diaphragm that won't allow it to seat all the way.
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Post by vankjeff on Jan 31, 2019 0:39:45 GMT -5
You really need to pull the carburetor off enough to see what the model & make are! That model of blower could use a Walbro WT or a Zama C1U carburetor and the gaskets aren't even close to the same. I quoted $10 because the Amazon kits are made in China and I personally stay away from them and try to use only OEM kits when possible. A Walbro kit for the WT carburetor is about $10 on ebay. Choking the engine while it's running can saturate the air filter area and some blowback is normal, especially on piston ported engines such as this one. But for fuel to run out while it's sitting there makes me think there is leakage past the fuel metering needle. This can be because of a bad needle or a stiff diaphragm that won't allow it to seat all the way. I looked in my old question on this site and I found a posting most of the way down page 1 where 5terrysupersaws said “The UT number for this hand held blower is ; UT:08035-R ...which is a model HB25150V. The carburetor on this unit is a Walbro-WT series...Repair kit: Walbro K20-WAT" I remember that I took the carb off since he said the part # is on the opposite side from the fuel adjustment screws & I verified that he was right. So, I guess I'll be rebuilding a carb soon. Didn't you say there was a YouTube video that shows how and what to expect?
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Post by undee70ss on Jan 31, 2019 2:46:24 GMT -5
You really need to pull the carburetor off enough to see what the model & make are! That model of blower could use a Walbro WT or a Zama C1U carburetor and the gaskets aren't even close to the same. I quoted $10 because the Amazon kits are made in China and I personally stay away from them and try to use only OEM kits when possible. A Walbro kit for the WT carburetor is about $10 on ebay. Choking the engine while it's running can saturate the air filter area and some blowback is normal, especially on piston ported engines such as this one. But for fuel to run out while it's sitting there makes me think there is leakage past the fuel metering needle. This can be because of a bad needle or a stiff diaphragm that won't allow it to seat all the way. I looked in my old question on this site and I found a posting most of the way down page 1 where 5terrysupersaws said “The UT number for this hand held blower is ; UT:08035-R ...which is a model HB25150V. The carburetor on this unit is a Walbro-WT series...Repair kit: Walbro K20-WAT" I remember that I took the carb off since he said the part # is on the opposite side from the fuel adjustment screws & I verified that he was right. So, I guess I'll be rebuilding a carb soon. Didn't you say there was a YouTube video that shows how and what to expect? Plenty of vids on youtube. www.youtube.com/results?search_query=walbro+wt+carburetor+rebuild+instructions
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Post by vankjeff on Jan 31, 2019 17:54:36 GMT -5
Before I order the carb rebuild kit, I thought to feel the fuel lines on the carb. They all feel nice & squishy so I've got to guess there's no air leaks on any of them. I hope that's the deal. Also, I'd mentioned some fuel running out of the open air filter box after the engine had died and I was looking at it and tilted it. I think what I said was very misleading. Only a little fuel dripped out that was sitting in the bottom of the air filter box. It didn't keep flowing out & there really wasn't very much that dripped, maybe 5 or 10 drips. In my mind, that could easily have been some from my over pumping the primer, if that's possible. You guys would know way better. I just wanted to mention both of these things. I'd said in my other question that there's some grime build-up on the engine case a few inches below the carb which is pretty close to where the air filter intake is. I remember wondering why that grime was there and being told something about some holes in the mufflers that can get blocked that create some backpressure that can even cause a chainsaw to barely run or even to not run. I never knew how to look in there but I remember that I suspected that probably isn't an issue on mine since I've hardly used this thing over the many years and for sure it rarely even gotten very warm since I was always just using it indoors to clean my shop floors.
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Post by rowdy235 on Jan 31, 2019 22:08:49 GMT -5
Fuel lines being squishy is good and bad. Good because they're not hard and should seal good but bad because its usually a sign of the fuel lines becoming degraded. If it were me, I'd replace all the lines when I rebuilt the carb. I usually get the line, called "micro fuel hose" by the foot from my local hardware store. Its even labeled "alcohol resistant" which means it should handle E10 fuels if you choose to run it.
I would bet the excess fuel you're finding is a result of you fiddling with the choke when running, causes a lot of raw fuel to be put in the carb which causes fuel to sit once it shuts off. This is worse on piston ported engines like yours as Leon noted.
Its not theoretically possible to "over pump" the primer as all you're doing is bringing fuel up to the carb. However, if the carb has leaks you can cause more fuel to seep through hard gaskets because you're essentially providing more fuel to it, if that makes sense.
I would still recommend taking a look at the exhaust screen. Its worth a look even if its not an issue, but if it is I have seen them cause major problems. What really causes the build up in my experience is running the engine at less than full throttle and/or for short periods.
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Post by vankjeff on Feb 1, 2019 0:10:53 GMT -5
I can't find any rebuild YouTube videos for a Walbro K20. They all seem to be for K10 carbs.Maybe that's a newer maybe that's a newer model? Do you have any good links I can learn from? It doesn't look very tricky at all but it's nice to learn little tips.
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Post by vankjeff on Feb 1, 2019 1:05:34 GMT -5
1. Don't get me wrong. When I say the lines are squishy, it just meant that they weren't hard. I thought that was a super good thing. I'll look for 5' of "alcohol resistant micro fuel hose" at ACE tomorrow. I'm assuming that when it is called micro, that determines the diameter size. 2. I bet you're right on the Choking it causing the extra fuel. After all, when you cut off the air intake, it's going to suck in more gas. 3. I think you or someone had told me in my other question thread that the primer bulb works that way and that normally, if you keep pumping it too many times, it will start shooting the excess fuel back into the tank down that 3rd fuel line. 4. I guess while I've got the carb off, I should take the time to also explore the exhaust screen in the muffler. I sure hope I can get the screws out without any trouble. I probably can.
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