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Post by onlyhomelites on Nov 12, 2018 19:34:32 GMT -5
Okay, I'm about to lose my mind with this friggin' saw! Backstory: It's a customer saw that I started working on this summer. It never ran great, but good enough considering the condition. I found it to have some corrosion in the crankcase, down by the reed valves...the customer agreed to the repair and wanted me to paint it at the same time I had apart. I agreed (perhaps foolishly) and fast forward to now...I cannot get this thing to even fire on a prime. - It has good spark...in fact good enough to light a flame out of the muffler with the plug removed! There was obviously lots of fuel up in there! The coil is new aftermarket, the points are new. The condenser is original, but the spark jumps ~1/4" on the alligator clip spark plug style tester.
- The saw was assembled with all new gaskets & seals. It has ~145PSI of compression
- The carburetor has been completely rebuilt and holds pressure indefinitely. I can get the pressure tester up to about 14PSI and it takes over 10 minutes to bleed down to about 6PSI.
- Reed valves are in good shape; one was replaced the rest look fine
- The on/off switch is new and has been tested.
- The flywheel has been verified to be correct to the saw.
I'm at a total loss at this point. I don't believe there is a damn thing wrong with any part of the ignition system components. I guess I'll try to verify that the ignition backplate is original to ensure proper coil location next. This really seems like a timing issue, but I'll be damned if I know what's going on! Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Proof that it ran at one time:
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Post by dieseltech on Nov 12, 2018 19:52:06 GMT -5
when you get it figured out let me know I have one that doesn't run also
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Post by edju1958 on Nov 12, 2018 20:14:12 GMT -5
Sometimes this happens to me too.I'll lay in bed trying to go to sleep & all I can think about is a particular problem I'm having with a saw.When you least expect it you'll have that"Ah Ha" moment & everything will come together.You'll ask yourself why you didn't think of it before. It sounds like you've been through the saw pretty thoroughly.It's got to be something simple that's causing this "complex"situation.I'm sure one (or more) members here who have a lot more experience than I do,especially with this particular model,will possibly hit the nail on the head.Good luck Leon! Ed
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Post by sweepleader on Nov 12, 2018 21:32:02 GMT -5
If you can get flames lit on the muffler, I would have to think it was flooded. Drain the gas out of it or clamp the gas line shut, let it dry out. When you KNOW it is dry, add a prime and try it.
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Post by tjthechainsawmech on Nov 12, 2018 22:17:42 GMT -5
Check that spark plug to see if it's fouled out. Like sweepleader mentioned if it was flooded out real bad it wouldn't have fired and now the plug is probably fouled Keeping it from firing. Hell blow it out, pop a plug in, and what I'm gonna dare say next....Use from straight starting fluid. Once ain't gonna hurt nothing....if it'll pop at least you know it WILL run....if it won't pop on straight starting fluid then I'd blame ignition again. Generally if timing is off your hands will be sore knowing it......or if your luck runs like mine yer nuts from the cord flying back and smacking them. lol!
Thing is it ran at one time with I'm assuming all the parts you just put back in as far as ignition.
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Post by undee70ss on Nov 13, 2018 3:40:25 GMT -5
I agree with the others, make sure its dry, and try again with a new plug. Problems like this are usually something stupid.
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Post by sawnami on Nov 13, 2018 7:50:07 GMT -5
Timing-wise, you could use a TDC indicator and see if the points open just before TDC. Ballpark would be 1/8-1/4" BTDC. Have you tried another condenser? If capacitance is off, it can shift spark timing.
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Post by onlyhomelites on Nov 14, 2018 8:48:28 GMT -5
Thanks for all the suggestions...I'll be putting a new condenser in before assembling the saw again. I've visually checked to make sure the points are opening about TDC and they look good, so I guess we're back to immense flooding out. I know the needle & seat are not leaking in the carb, so I guess my adjustments were just too rich or the condenser is really weak enough to not allow the plug to fire under compression. I'll update once I get her back together!
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chainsawer
Groundie
Homelite 150 oiling to much
Posts: 9
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Post by chainsawer on Nov 14, 2018 20:32:31 GMT -5
I had a saw acting like that turned out to be the hole in the points that slides over mounting post was worn, put a thin shim around the post saw runs.
Rick
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on Nov 21, 2018 3:03:33 GMT -5
Just watched the video; 1st Test Run Since Restore! Looks beautiful and sounds GREAT !! Congrats on getting it sorted ! Keep it stoiched.
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Post by onlyhomelites on Nov 21, 2018 15:49:55 GMT -5
Thanks! I was so happy to have this saw running!
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Post by edju1958 on Nov 21, 2018 15:58:05 GMT -5
So what did you finally end up doing to get this old girl going again? Ed
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Post by sweepleader on Nov 21, 2018 15:58:12 GMT -5
Now that it runs, what do you feel was the trouble? What made the difference?
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Post by onlyhomelites on Nov 21, 2018 19:29:19 GMT -5
It was the condenser! The saw made good spark, even with a tester that has to jump ~1/4", but apparently under compression it wouldn't fire. A new condenser and a prime of fuel was all it took to get it going. I guess I have to quit screwing around and get one of the meters that tests the actual capacity.
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Post by undee70ss on Nov 22, 2018 10:42:57 GMT -5
It was the condenser! The saw made good spark, even with a tester that has to jump ~1/4", but apparently under compression it wouldn't fire. A new condenser and a prime of fuel was all it took to get it going. I guess I have to quit screwing around and get one of the meters that tests the actual capacity. Unusual. That’s a new one. If spark jumps 1/4 inch, they at least always ran for me. With the bad condenser, was the spark a bright blue, or something else?
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Post by tjthechainsawmech on Nov 22, 2018 13:30:40 GMT -5
Makes me wonder if the condenser is the same issue causing that 2100 I got not to want to run and only pop. Good job man! Looks and sounds great!
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Post by edju1958 on Nov 22, 2018 17:08:21 GMT -5
It was the condenser! The saw made good spark, even with a tester that has to jump ~1/4", but apparently under compression it wouldn't fire. A new condenser and a prime of fuel was all it took to get it going. I guess I have to quit screwing around and get one of the meters that tests the actual capacity. You know I've got a similar situation with my XL-123,only thing is there I put a new condenser & points in it & I still can't get spark from it.I even sanded the points thinking there was oxidation on NOS points.Maybe the NOS condenser is bad?
Ed
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Post by sawnami on Nov 24, 2018 8:31:13 GMT -5
I just finished a Super Mini SL with solid state ignition that appeared to have plenty of fire but it was running (kind of) on the start leg of the coil only which caused the timing to be retarded aroung 20° from where it should be.
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Post by brians2n on Dec 23, 2018 17:31:12 GMT -5
Thanks! I was so happy to have this saw running! Love your success story. Thanks for sharing.
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Post by brians2n on Dec 24, 2018 15:15:17 GMT -5
Thanks! I was so happy to have this saw running! Love your success story. Thanks for sharing. Running better than ever! I wonder why mine smokes so much. I would not run it inside. The air would be blue.
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